The Truth About Bully Breeds - Blog Fifteen

For the purposes of this blog, we are referring to all Bully Breeds as "Pit Bull" just so we are not listing off several types of dog every time we wish to mention it.

WARNING this blog is not for the sensitive!
Today, all over the news, there was a story of a 17 year old Saanich Pit Bull cross that bit a 16 day old baby, and many things are occurring on social media - and as a responsible, caring trainer, and a personal lover of these specific breeds, we felt the need to go on record with our expert advice on the matter, and confront the incorrect and dangerously inaccurate statements.

1) Pit Bulls can lock their jaws.

No, they can't - but they're in the top three of jaw strength, meaning you can't just pry them open unless the dog allows you to. They have absolutely no locking mechanism in their jaws.

2) The dog in question was jealous.

Dogs don't suffer from jealousy like you or I do. They do not possess the mental process to go, "Hey; that baby is stealing my people's time from me, so I am going to go over there and try and kill their new puppy". They don't even have that type of thinking format. They can have associations however, such as the baby represents a change in rules, and they dislike that change, so they wish to put the rules back the way they were before, and so they follow pack dynamics and assert their dominance in order to try and repair the changed rules. They also can simply assert pack dynamics without the association with rule change; any new puppy brought into a pack must be determined as dominant, or submissive -- and given the chance, -any- dog will attempt to teach the new human puppy that they are the bigger dog and therefore has more rank than them. It is 100% up to the owners to make sure the dog understands the baby is not something to be claimed or dominated.

3) The dog in question was a Pit Bull, so they should have expected this.

The breed has nothing to do with the deed. All dogs are capable of this act, and as a matter of fact, the Pit Bull is one the lowest on the list of potential breeds to attack. Breeds that are more aggressive on average than a Pit Bull might surprise you; Chihuahuas, Golden Retrievers, Dalmatians, Boxers, Akitas, Shepherds, Huskies; this list goes on. The breed commonly referred to as the Pit Bull actually has no generic strain of aggression bred into them whatsover, unlike dogs like the German Shepherd or Akita. Associating a specific breed to a behavioural problem is inaccurate, and unfair to the breed; after all, you wouldn't blame an ethnicity on a specific type of crime. All races are capable of all crime, and dogs are no different.

4) This Pit Bull is vicious, so it should be put down.

A Pit Bull that bites a human unprovoked is not always "vicious". This could very well have been its first ever abnormal reaction. In fact, it is incredibly rare for a dog to be so aggressive that it actually lays teeth on a human. At least 80% of the time, dogs posture and fake out; they very rarely strike, and they have to feel directly threatened unless they are specifically trained to attack, such as protection dogs, or police canines. 99% of family pets do not reach this level of instability, and if they do, it is very unlikely that the owner of said dog would allow their baby anywhere near the dog in question. In this instance, it is my professional opinion that this dog was merely enforcing pack hierarchy. If this dog wanted to kill the baby, it would have, and it would have done it in half a second. If it wanted to correct the baby, or enforce pack dynamics, it would have been a quick nip or two - but with the power of the Pit Bull jaw, combined with the especially sensitive and soft skin of a newborn, the damage becomes bad, fast. Because the baby is in stable condition and the damage was not life threatening and on the face.  This damage directly correlates with a corrective or dominance warning nip. Dogs that are seeking to kill something do not attack the face; with small animals, like a rabbit, they grab center of mass, and shake. This dog was not vicious; it was dominant. It was also seventeen; even dogs suffer from a deteriorating mind, and it is highly possible the dog was suffering from dementia, or Alzheimer's.

5) Pit Bulls were bred to attack, and have unstable blood lines.

The American Pit Bull Terrier originally appeared as a cross breed between the Old English Terrier, and the Old English Bulldog, first making their appearance as the "Old Family Terrier", in the mid 19th century. They were widely used as nannies and farm dogs, rehabilitation animals, seeing eye dogs, service dogs, and as a guardian for both children and farmyard livestock. Pit Bulls were excellent in this capacity; they were widely known as the sweetheart of the farmyard life.

Despite media dramatization, careful wording, and obvious breed racism, the CKC and AKC describe the Pit Bull as intelligent, patience, enthusiastic, athletic, high please drive, and extremely gentle - especially with children and strangers. They seem to know exactly how powerful their jaws are, and while they do not actually lock (despite popular belief), Pit Bulls are very gentle with their mouths, and have natural bite inhibition. Pit Bulls are very sensitive to the wants and needs of the owner, and know inherently that humans have sensitive skin.

Pit Bulls are naturally inquisitive, and compliant. Because of this, the Pit Bull try very hard to accommodate the expectations of the owner, even if that means going against their very nature.

After a while, some unsavory folks noticed the Pit Bull's ability to adapt, and it's naturally gentle nature - and trained them to either attack and kill a bull or bear for sport, or become bait animals to train more aggressive breeds. Pit bulls were not properly suited to become ring dogs, but they did well in training other dogs, and it often cost them their lives, because young Pit Bulls would not fight back. The dogs that fought Bulls did so generally because of being raised to do so at a young age, and while they mostly did not want to fight, they did to please their humans - and they did a good job at it. Thus, the name "Pit Bull Fighter" was coined, and today, we know them simply as Pit Bulls.

Despite this, it is unnatural and abnormal for the Pit Bull to have a shred of aggression in them - but the same adaptive, pleasing nature causes them to become exactly what their owners want - and more often than not, humans make them aggressive because they are either unaware of dog psychology, or think a Pit Bull should be aggressive, and teach them to be this way.

Breeding effects behaviour, but only on a very low level. Puppies are blank slates when they go to their forever homes, and these behaviors are either solved, or encouraged. 100% of "aggressive" Pit Bulls were not born dangerous; they were made to be that way.

6) Pit Bulls are unpredictable and just "snap".

Partially already addressed, the Pit Bull is not so unpredictable. I've spent enough time with them and near them to understand that they are perhaps the most predictable breed there is. They are very sensitive to energy and training, and most owners don't honestly realize when they are allowing a dog to believe it is in control, which produces these so-called "unpredictable" Pit Bulls. Show me a home with one of these, and I will show you a home that has simply missed a few things. Every little thing effects a Pit Bull; toys, feeding, walks, play time,  rules, and how it is all handled and employed. Things that seem innocent like allowing cosleeping, or up onto the couch; feeding a treat when they bark at you (unless you're teaching "speak"), or even letting them outside when they bark at you. These little things are all ingredients to encouraging confused pack dynamics. A dog in control can and will listen to the human when the human has something they want - but won't when they're in an excited or hyper state of mind. Dogs like this often obey flawlessly for treats, but won't when there's something more interesting. This often leads to the assumption that the dog is just "dumb", or that that may be deaf, or even that they're just too excited to listen, when in fact they're simply dominant. Aggression and dominance is not always hand in hand. It can be as simple as willful disobedience. Pit Bulls are just way more sensitive to these ques than other dogs, and rarely become aggressive - but they can and do become DEFENSIVE. Something that may seem innocent to you can be perceived as a threat to a Pit Bull, and they will protect themselves and their humans. In this case, it is highly possible this dog thought the baby was in fact a threat - something a simple as a shrill scream, a squeak, or a fast moving arm can trigger a defensive animal, and this would suggest that this family pet had missed a few critical training steps; especially with the age of the dog, and the increased likelihood of disorders such as dementia.

7) Pit Bulls can't feel pain

Pinch yourself. Did you feel something? Then you obviously feel pain. Pit Bulls are no different. Everything that is alive feels pain - even plants. They also scream out in pain, and are alive when they are picked and eaten. Read more: http://science.howstuffworks.com/life/botany/plants-feel-pain.htm

All dogs possess the ability to feel pain - even Pit Bulls. What they do have is an incredibly high please drive - that's the part of the dog that makes them want to satisfy their pack leader. When they themselves are the pack leader, they seek so much to please themselves that they ignore pain. These dogs love their humans so much that they will ignore pain to do what is asked of them. They love humans so much, they would endure excruciating pain and totally ignore it and drive through it. This does not just apply to trained Pit Bulls; this affects the entire multitude of bully breeds. Isn't that awe-inspiring? This is what created the rumor  - Pit Bulls that broke their very nature to kill a bull, and ignored the pain of the fight because they loved their masters THAT MUCH. If that doesn't make you the least bit sad or feel pity, I don't know what will.



Remember guys, dogs are only capable of what we as humans teach them!

Is your dog listening, obeying, complying, or manipulating you? Or is your dog just plain ignoring you? Blog Fourteen

Hello everyone! Today's blog is all about obedience - or is it obedience? We will be talking all about how to identify how your dog might be listening - and what it means for your relationship!

When dogs are given a command they know very well, they make a choice. Within a split second, they identify the word you said, apply it to their active situation, calculate what exactly you want, how it should be done, and decide whether or not they're going to do it - all of which is dependent on how you taught the word, if they have been given that word in this situation, whether or not they trust you, respect you, or understand you, and how you said the word. It seems all very complicated, and to the dog, it is. Dogs are exact - a certain tone will mean "If you like", where another will mean business, and another will mean "my human is unstable, ignore, or confront this." But, depending on how they react, it communicates something completely different.


Listening

For the sake of this blog, we are just going to call this listening - in the long winded sense, we are referring to obedience because they want to please you. When a dog is truly listening, they will look at you like the whole world has vanished away. They will be happy, relaxed, quiet, and often will perform the behaviour before you get the whole command from your mouth, and it doesn't matter if you have a reward - they're doing it because they love you. Everyone likes to think their dog is in this category; unless your dog resembles Michael Ellis and his dog Pi (seen below), all the time, your dog is not an active listener type. Looking at your dog through rose-colored glasses, whether you are a life-long owner, active professional trainer, or a first time owner, will not do your dog any favors. If your dog looks like this all the time, congratulations, your dog is well trained!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qaodSBuSIM



Obeying

Obedience itself is a lofty goal for some owners - but this trait is marked by a dog performing a behaviour after a few seconds, either because they know they have no actual choice, or because they know the outcome will be worse if they don't. Either way, it is not happening out of respect, but it is happening in a way that is not harming your relationship - but it won't build it, either. A dog that is simply obeying is usually lazy-looking, slow to respond, or takes a few moments to complete it. Sometimes you may need to repeat yourself, or make sure they're paying attention. You can refine obedience into a listening skill by making it more exciting to listen.


Complying

When a dog is doing as you ask out of compliance, these are dogs that won't listen if you don't have a toy, treat, or specific tool, like a special collar you train them in, or a certain place in the community. Compliance occurs when a dog doesn't care about listening, they just want what you have enough to indignify themselves to obey. A dog that is complying is tense, anxious, or an unhealthy kind of excited, often whines or barks, as if to usher on their reward. These dogs won't look you in the eye, or if they do, it's because they think it will get them their treat, and often break eye contact once they realize it isn't working. When there isn't the reward or tool present, they might take being told 6 or 7 times before listening - and its time you contact a trainer for help. A dog that is complying won't listen when it really matters - like in a fight, in a self-rewarding behaviour, or if they are running across a street. Compliance is not obedience, and it signifies that your dog thinks they are in control of YOU. There is likely a damaged relationship, or a relationship that isn't build yet. This doesn't mean you've done something wrong; it just means you need to change up what you're doing.


Manipulating

When a dog believes without a shadow of a doubt that they control their humans, they will manipulate you to get what they want - such as repeated barking, begging, or nipping. Dogs that use unwanted behaviours, seemingly to get a response from you, is doing so to either gain something, or stop something. For instance, a manipulating dog might nip at you or your heels if you get too close to their toys or food; they might charge at the front door and bark, even if you tell them no; they might bark repeatedly at you to get you to appear in front of them; they might ignore you when you give then a command, or halfway do it, and look away; they might only perform for you very rarely when they believe there is something beneficial for them in it, or, they might perform the wrong behaviour on purpose to assert their dominance. In any case, your dog needs a trainer intervention before they hurt themselves, or someone else.


Just Plain Ignoring You

If you can shout, scream, do jumping jacks, bribe, or otherwise try anything to get your dog to listen and they won't, either they don't know what you want, or they're just ignoring you. Classic ignoring behaviour happens when a human is not consistent, doesn't follow through, or doesn't expect anything of their pets. A dog that ignores might look away, pretend you're not there; they might just look at you, pretending they didn't hear you, or look at you with that dumb face expression, and you might buy it or are too busy to follow through. For instance, take a family that does not allow the dog in the dining room might tell the dog "Out", and stop paying attention once the dog looks like it's walking away, but the dog darts under the table and starts hoovering the food, or when you tell them to sit, they walk away and flop over. This is indicative of a dog that knows exactly what is expected, but either doesn't care what you want, or knows the command is optional. An ignoring dog will often keep the behaviour going, such as nuisance barking, licking themselves when told to stop, running around the home, or otherwise doing as they please; they will play dumb, or not complete a behaviour. If this is happening, something between your communication and the dog's reception of it has gone wrong, and basic training needs to reboot - as if they are an 8 week old puppy. Back to basics, and it's time to call the trainer.


Warning Signs

When none of these match, there are a few situations where the issue may not be behavioural. If your dog doesn't respond to you at all, if they appear listless, unresponsive, drooling more than normal, glassy eyed, or is very hot to the touch behind the ears in the folds of the neck, take them to a pet emergency immediately.

If your dog is about to bite, they will get quiet, and low. They will not be growling, or circling. If your dog is about to bite, stop what you are doing immediately, and if you can, move to safety and call a trainer immediately.

Hope everyone has a great week!

Lazy Sunday Ways to Exhaust Your Dog - Blog Thirteen

Some days, we just don't want to get off the couch. Maybe the weather is lousy; maybe you're sick, or injured, or maybe you just simply can't be bothered to get out of your pjs. Whatever the reason, when you have a dog, no exercise is not an option. They suffer as badly from lack of exercise as humans do from not eating all day.  There are several mental, physical, and spiritual costs to an under exercised dog. So, on days like these, how is one supposed to exercise a dog?


1) Teach them a brand new trick from scratch.

If you spend an hour or so every few hours in the day teaching your dog a brand new trick, they have to burn several times more mental energy than physical - and by the time the day is over, they will be drained as if you'd been on a walk. This serves dual purpose, as mental energy is harder to burn, and also burns physical energy. Stuck on new tricks? You can refine fetch to make it flawless (see video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ccw1uwvbx00 ) or you could attempt to teach roll over (see video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCOvAf_-Xz8 ) or even tricks like target and build into things like shutting on or off your lights, opening or closing doors, bringing you objects like the newspaper or your slippers, or even simple tricks like shake a paw or speak. Spend a day teaching these, and your dog will be tired! While this doesn't burn traveling needs, it will handle mental and physical energy. Traveling needs can be held off until the next day.

2) Utilizing a treadmill

Some families have a treadmill, but rarely do they realize they can use it for a dog. Some dogs need more coaxing than others, and some take to it like a duck to water! If your dog seems afraid of the treadmill, start it very slow, keep them on a short lead, and use lots of positive, happy energy and praise every time they move along without trying to jump off. Once they understand what they are expected to do, they will love it. Dogs don't naturally understand treadmills, which is why some of them are averse to traveling on it. The one downside to treadmills is they do not burn mental energy or traveling energy. Just physical. So, you may also need to spend some time playing with or training your dog, but they will tire out pretty quick.

3) No treadmill? Use some outdoor furniture!

If all you have is a pair of plastic outdoor chairs, a lawn couch, or other such items, you can use those, too! Put them on their backs, and use it as an obstacle course. You only need to move so far as to show them what it is, what to do, and how to play, and engage your dog a little. This is good for days when you just don't want to leave the home. You can put the jumps on command if you like, and after a couple practice runs, your dog will be leaping over chairs like it's nothing! If they have an aversion to jumping or they're too small to clear your furniture, you can train them to go under instead. Just make sure to enforce no jumping inside the home - they can break something, hurt someone, or injure themselves.

4) Search!

Train your dog to root out smells - treats, chicken stock on a piece of cardboard, a dirty sock - anything. Start small, and make them use their nose to find something a little harder to find - like on a coffee table, or on a footstool. When they can see you put it down, watch to see if they are smelling it out (because its out of their sight line) and if they are, when they find it, call out "Good, search!" after a while, they will associate "search" with locating the smell, and then you can work on larger distances. Eventually, your dog will be able to find the smell anywhere in your home once you tell them "search!" This will also burn all three energy types, and help satisfy hunting or prey drive. For dogs that just aren't interested in searching, the reward of finding the item is not enough - you will need to train them first to smell the item and get a reward such as a treat, or a brief moment with a favorite toy. Once they are smelling items on command, you can build that into search by making them move towards the item then smelling it, and then work on putting it out of the site line. The goal is the same, but the means of getting there is a little more exhaustive. Any dog can learn search!

5) Use the opportunity to re-associate behaviours.

Lets say your dog is terrified of the bathroom, because someone approached the bath the wrong way and simply wrangled the dog in to the tub and hosed them off - or however else it happened. But now, your dog is scared of the tub, and it's a fight to get them in. Take this time to re-associate the bathroom! Instead of fighting to get them in the room, take their favorite treat or toy and lure them in. If they snatch-and-run, don't be discouraged - they still entered the bathroom! You can work on getting them to stay longer, but if they are showing signs of being overwhelmed, end the session on a good note and try again in an hour. If you are persistent, you can have your dog laying in the bathtub, chewing on their toy, with no sign of stress! This will burn mental and physical energy. Remember, you are not actually bathing them. There should be no water in the tub to start with.

6) Back yard fetch

If your dog already knows fetch reliably enough to bring it back to you, let them run into the bad weather. Dogs don't care about wind or rain (and if they do, they have learned that from a human reacting poorly to the weather, and you should spend some time re-associating this behaviour), and they love running. Put a towel by your back door for their mucky paws if you like, and throw the ball out the door. If they know to return with the ball (which makes fetch officially fetch, and not just run for the ball), then you could spend time burning that energy with fetch! If this doesn't typically burn out your dog, put a few obstacles in the way, like a small chair or a few distraction toys - and reward them when they return with the same item you threw out. This will force them to think about and calculate what you want, which will burn extra energy. This can also be accomplished from the couch - assuming you can throw the ball out the door from your couch.

7) Tug - with rules

A proper game of tug can and will burn your dog out fast - as long as they understand the rules. They need to release the item on command, not lunge or snap at it when you have it, ignore it when you tell them to, and wait when asked. As long as these polite rules are being enforced, tug is totally harmless, and actually beneficial to your dog (provided you don't swing them around, lift them off the ground, or snap your hands around too fast). You can even combine tug and fetch, tug and search, or tug and obstacles - or graduate your dog up to a larger item and teach them the "bite" command - but be aware that this is beginning protection training. The advantage of having bite on command is the ability to command it off - such as "no bite" or "stop bite", very handy for safety purposes if your dog likes to play nip or is just a lover of chewing things. You can even train your dog to "hunt" their tug toy and "kill" it on command - useful if you get a lot of pests like squirrels or foxes on your property. You can also accomplish tug while laying or sitting on the couch and not having to move - but the rules are the same.


Hopefully, we have armed you with plenty of ideas for those days when you just feel like doing nothing!

Common Issues That Should Never Be Allowed - Blog Twelve

Wow, we are at twelve blogs already! Time sure flies when you're helping others! Today's topic is "Common issues that should never be allowed" and of course why, and what to do instead!

1) Off-Leash Walking

Many people enjoy the walk when their dog isn't constantly tethered by a lead to their hands, and more often than not, its because of a few reasons - the dog has no leash skills, the owner has some kind of joint pain or injury, they believe it should be the final product of proper training, or they simply think it is the easiest way to walk more than one dog on their own.

Why:

In our experience, off-leash leads to rude, disrespectful behaviour, and quite often, a lack of control on the owner's part. Most often, off-leash means the dog is either far ahead, wandering at their pleasure, dashing off at the scents and smells that interest them, running and bouncing about, and generally not being respectful to their human. This type of walking won't build your relationship; in fact, it will distance it, and give the dog reason to believe they don't have to respect you - just check in now and again. It also totally prevents you from stopping the dog from unwanted or dangerous behaviours, and disconnects the dog from your energy. Dogs off leash could catch a scent and charge off, get lost, or get hurt, or even killed. Dogs off leash could charge excitedly up to another dog and get into a fight, or could attack and kill another animal or pet. Keeping even well behaved dogs on leash will prevent ninety percent of these issues. Disconnecting a dog from your energy not only severs the delicate bond between the two of you, it turns walking from an energy burning exercise into a rompy play time that doesn't burn much mental energy at all. Mental energy is more important than physical energy; a bored dog gets into loads of problems. A dog with too much physical energy just needs a good run.

Instead:

Teaching proper leash skills not only guarantees a polite leash walker, makes structured walking possible, and mostly prevents unwanted behaviours from occurring. Of course, play time and games cannot happen safely on leash, and this should be the only time a dog should be off leash, but only when you've trained a 100% consistent recall. If you have to bribe, shout at, or repeat yourself to your dog, then you should not allow your dog off leash. As a matter of fact, it is mostly illegal in many municipalities.


2) Toys Without Rules

Most often, we see people who allow their pets 24/7 access to all of their toys - and this creates massive problems.

Why:

When a dog has access to toys, they begin to think these things are theirs, they must be protected, and often become boring. They figure them out fast, and then you end up having to bribe them just to be interested in the toy, or constantly buy new ones. You're also missing out on a critical bonding experience, and a free, treatless method of training.

Instead:

Provide rules - they have to earn the use of a toy, they must release and stop playing on command, it gets taken away when they become too intense, and the items belong to the humans, and my favourite trick - cycle them out. A dog will forget all about a toy if they go "missing" for a couple of weeks, and they get all excited when it reappears. By cycling out a toy every week or few days, you will always have that "new toy" reaction without actually having to buy anything new, and it gives them drive for the toys - creating a very easy way to expect proper behaviours, train new ones, or replace problem behaviours.


3) Feeding/Walking only at Night

Many families and personal styles of life prevent walking and feeding in the day time, occurring after work, but often they see some severe behavioural issues, and blame the dog.

Why:

While dogs have most of their energy in the morning, its from remaining stationary, not from sleeping itself. Sleeping is just a way to repair the body - something they cannot do if their stomachs have food in them. Unlike humans that recharge overnight, dogs keep the energy they had from the day before, add it on to their "stockpile" of energy, and food refuels the gas tank. They also digest their food a lot slower than humans do, and more often than not, when a dog is fed and walked at night, the walking doesn't scratch the surface of their energy needs, they are refueled by food, then they are expected to sleep on that, wait all day to get their needs met, and the cycle continues. Unless you're awake all night and asleep all day with your pet, this is disaster waiting to happen. Imagine eating your three square meals a day, but right before you go and do something - you will feel fulfilled, rested, and overall healthy. Same thing goes for dogs. Feeding and walking only at night to a dog is about as helpful as a human only eating or walking at 6 am for the whole day.

Instead:

Owning a dog isn't always about what's easiest for the human. It is about giving a life that is totally dependant on you what they need. Wake up a couple hours early, feed your pup, walk them, and consider hiring someone to take them out when you are at work. Dogs need most of their exercise and food for the day in the morning, as close to sunrise as possible. A snack or smaller meal can be given later in the day, but only if you're going to burn that added energy and food off again. Dogs need to sleep on an empty stomach to heal properly - as do humans.  If you absolutely must walk and feed at night, you must hire someone to exercise your dog in the daytime, or consider re-homing your dog. It should only ever occur as an enjoyment walk, after all the other exercise needs are met. If you cannot provide proper care of a dog due to your lifestyle, it is not fair on the dog for it to mold around your needs. There is nothing at all wrong with admitting your life does not fit a dog right now.


4) Improper Crate Training

Most people have a negative view about crates - and when you see dogs that are scared of the crate, hate it, chew their way out, or sustain injuries inside one, its really easy to see why that view happens. However, these instances were from improper crate training.

Why:

When crates are used as punishment or containment during disobedience early on, it becomes a negative space. Dogs naturally enjoy having a den space, but most of the time, humans use the wrong type of crate, or something that is way too small, and use it for the wrong reasons. Think about it like this; you love your bedroom, you enjoy the space, the relaxing, the sleeping - but if someone didn't like something you did and locked you in there, you'd get pretty mad about that room very fast. You might even have issues sleeping in there. If another adult, in the heat of an argument, locked you in your bedroom, its clear to see what is wrong with that - but many people do this to their dogs, or put them in it when they have way too much energy - like feeding ice cream to a toddler then putting them in a crib. A crate should never be used for these purposes.

Instead:

Teach your dog that their crate is their safe space - they can hide there when they feel unsafe, they can sleep there, they can choose to be there - they should be trained that it is comfy, safe spot, not a cage to be locked away in. With puppies, this happens in short spurts, treats, loves, and leaving them there for not even 20 minutes. You should never ever use a crate to contain an energetic dog, or a dog that has misbehaved. Remember, all misbehaviours happen because of a missed training opportunity, or the human caused it by not fulfilling needs.


5) Door Disrespect

Many owners don't realize that the door, or any other entrance or threshold, offers not only a source of competition, but superstitions, bad habits, and training opportunities. What is normal for a human at a door is abnormal for a dog- so we must train them proper rules.

Why:

When a dog charges at or barks at the door, it's a sign of fear or dominance, neither scenario being acceptable. If they move through the door first, they are in control. Even little things like this speaks volumes to your dog, and should be managed appropriately. Some dogs even think that the door belongs to them - and can attack or challenge anyone that goes near it.

Instead:

Have a spot they must occupy out of the way near the door so they can see and greet, but respectfully. Make them sit and wait at all thresholds, whether it be a gate, door, front door, anything. Dogs should be taught to only bark once or twice at the door, and then occupy their spot until the human answers the door. When leaving, a dog must allow humans first, never run or push through a door, and it should never become a competition (ie, who gets through the door first, who can guard the door best, ect).


6) Leaving Kids and Dogs Alone

Normally this occurs in short spurts; they're all outside, playing, and the phone rings, or someone's at the door, whatever distraction - and the dog is trained, is fine around the child, so the owner assumes its fine. This is when so many problems occur.

Why:

When the human that is in control leaves, if pack structure is not employed with absolute perfection on a minute by minute basis, every time, the dog is going to believe they are temporarily in control, and must watch, mind, babysit, or protect the child - and they often resort to tactics they use on puppies to keep them in line, without realizing that a light corrective nip can deface and seriously injure a human child. They often take it upon themselves to disagree with certain annoying or improper behaviours, and think they can correct a child like a puppy, because it's all they are equipped with.

Instead:

Never leave a child and a dog alone, ever - even if your dog has never bitten anyone. Instead, bring either the kid or the dog with you if you have to leave the area.


7) Sharing Toys/Food/Beds/Crates/Space/Water sources

When one home has more than one dog, its common to make them share - and most people think it's harmless.

Why:

The moment the dogs are forced to share something, even as small as the same dish, the same tug toy, or the same crate, it brings an energy of competition. More often than not, one dog owns it all, and the other dogs are forced to sneak, steal, or otherwise find something else that's inappropriate for them to play with. Some people argue nothing ever happens - but this simply isn't the case. A confrontation between dogs over a toy can happen in milliseconds, and often isn't marked by any obvious behaviour. It's usually just a look, or a quick glance that the untrained eye can't see. Only in extreme situations does  a dog attack or growl over food or toys.

Instead:

Each dog should have their own bed, crate, set of dishes, space to eat in, and toys - and IF they share toys, it must be done fairly, and with fast, expert human reactions.


8) Lack Of Proper Commands

Yes should mean yes, No should mean no, and sit should mean put my bum down until I am told otherwise - but down can mean get down, lay down, don't jump, get off the furniture....It is incredibly confusing.

Why:

When a word can mean several different things, a dog has to stop and think about what it means in that scenario, often resulting in a delay in obedience, and most humans get frustrated at the dog. It's not the dog's fault, they don't have the ability to differentiate scenarios and words like humans can. To a dog, each word needs to mean something specific, and when it doesn't, it really throws them for a loop.

Instead:

Teach a different word for each instance. Off the furniture could be "Off", but then you can't use "Off" for get off the bed, or get off of a person. "Down" should be the position anywhere they are, but then "Don't Jump Up" can't be down, too. Instead, retrain yourself and your dog that there are different words for every situation. Also, if you use "No" in training to indicate they made a mistake and to try again, you should not use "No" to mean you screwed up, bad dog.

That's all for today, keep up the good work and we will see you and your Ideal Compaion next time!

Critical Skills All Dogs Should Learn - Blog Eleven

We all love our dogs, that much could never be in doubt - and for one family, the obedience level need is different from the next - some people need a schutzhund level trained dog, and others just want a lap warmer. But all things considered, there are a certain few skills every dog should know!

1) Proper Leash Skills
Whether or not you want a structured walk or a lazy sunday stroll just for fun, every dog should learn manners when they are on leash, and all dogs should stay on leash unless they're playing. Dogs pull because humans move slower than they do, and they must learn to walk slower and that walking in front of us is very rude. Most often, the dogs that get into trouble on walks are the ones that are walking rudely with their humans. All dogs should understand that pulling is not okay, that leash pressure means move towards it, and that it is rude to walk ahead.

2) Fast Command Response
If you say sit, you should only ever have to say it once, and that needs to be it. If your dog doesn't listen immediately to what you're telling it to do, they don't respect you, and eventually they learn that "sit" means nothing and "sit sit sit sit sit" means park my bum for a half second then carry on.

3) Emergency Down or "Hit the Ground"
In cases of dogs that could be a flight risk, if you train this skill well enough, your dog will go into a down no matter what they're doing, and it could save their lives. While it is a little tricky to train into all situations, the payoff is well worth it. If trained right, if you happen to lose grip on the leash and your dog darts off to greet another dog across a busy street, if they know "Hit the Ground" or "STOP", they will cease what they are doing and go into a down until you release them.

4) Out/Drop it
If a dog is allowed to have a toy all the time and doesn't have to give it up, it creates possessiveness and toy dominance issues. All dogs should understand that out or drop it means business!

5) Crate Skills
Crates might come across as unfair but when it boils down to it, when trained properly, the dog learns it is like a little bedroom where they can be safe, secure, relaxed, and happy, away from the cat or the baby or even just away from you. Seeing as its illegal to travel in a car unless your dog is crated, happy crate skills are critical.

6) Stay
The ability to put your dog in a spot and walk away is very important, especially if you want to shower, or cook without your dog underfoot. Stay is a command that can also save lives - especially if they want to go play with that aggressive dog across the path.

7) Place/Bed
While stay is naturally included with place, a dog needs a spot of their own that they know is theirs to lay on, besides their crate. If they happen to jump on to human furniture, you can say "No, bed" and eventually they will learn their spot is where they rest.

8) How to ignore other dogs
The concept that dogs must greet other dogs all the time is a human concept based on the fact that humans greet other humans all the time. Social skills to a dog is the ability to ignore other dogs and not worry about a confrontation, and it's important that they learn this skill early, because you can't guarantee anyone else's dogs are going to be polite. In the case of fearful dogs that are scared of other dogs, the process of safe walking does include desensitizing them to other dogs by making them meet safe dogs.

9) High intensity Exercise
While walking at human speed might tire out a puppy, it doesn't do much for most other dogs. All dogs should learn skills like fetch, swimming, or some form of high intensity exercise to burn this excess energy that a walk won't burn off.

10) Proper Consistent Communication
If you don't have a proper communication system with your dog, everything else falls apart. Most people do not have a proper communication system with their dogs. For instance, do you have separate commands for training and behavioural mistakes? Can you say that you don't use the same word for many different behaviours? Dogs need every word to mean one thing, and only one thing. "Yes" should be "You did that right", and "No" should only ever mean "That was not what I wanted, try again" and not a "Stop that, you bad boy". "Sit" should only ever mean put your bum on the ground and wait, and "down" should only ever mean put your belly on the ground and wait. I can't count the times where I have met people where "down" meant lay down, relax, stop jumping, get off the furniture, drop the toy, and in a couple cases, where the dog thought "sit" meant just touch the ground with my bum and carry on. This always leads to confusion, because the dog has to stop and think and go "did they mean down as in off the couch, or should I lay down? Maybe they mean down as in just relax?" and they don't respond, which makes the humans mad, sadly caused by the human not using different terms. This is also why "No" should mean training mistake, try again, and a different sound for "You really screwed up, stop that". Out should either mean release the toy OR go outside, not both, and bed should exclusively refer to their bed on the floor, and not the crate. Simple confusions like this cause a dog to stop and think for too long, and often result in a frustrated human.


Good luck out there, everyone!

Top 10 Mistakes Dog Owners Make, And Why They're Mistakes - Blog Ten

Hey everyone, its our tenth blog today, hooray! Our topic in today's post is the top ten mistakes that most dog owners make, and why they are mistakes! See how you rate - and if you have some changes to make!

10) Allowing Dogs Up On Human Furniture

While this seems totally harmless, and in some rare cases it is, the general idea of allowing a dog up on to human furniture is a mistake. It can be nice to have the whole family, pets and all, in the living room or den to watch TV, or chat. It gives the entire family a moment to relax, and provides family unity - all things that are great. But, from your dog's perspective, only the top dog of the family gets the best of the best - the best place to sit, the best place to sleep, the best toys, the best food - everything. Dogs already get their own toys, and food. Allowing them to sit in the same place as the humans lends to the belief that the dog is in control. Dogs can be allowed up on the couch, but only when invited to do so - not when the dog wants it, and especially not if the dog acts up while on the furniture.


9) Co-sleeping

Just like the last paragraph says for furniture, co-sleeping is a bad idea for the same reason. The more items that are shared with the dogs that belong to humans, the higher likelihood you're going to have of a dog thinking they're in control. Most people allow dogs in the bed because they whine everywhere else and its just easier to let them in bed; well, the whining worked. The dog manipulated you in to caving in, because he knows it will work. Sometimes, you just have to put in ear plugs, and ignore the behaviour. They can and should be in the bedroom too; just on the floor, or in a crate overnight.


8) Not Carrying On Life-Long Training

While the basics are very important, and every dog should know proper leash skills, sit/down/stay, you would be surprised at the amount of dog owners that stop at "sit" and don't carry on training. A dog should be learning something almost all of the time; training should never be "done" with a dog. Keep striving for perfect behaviour, new tricks, better or faster response times; no dog is too old to learn something new. Not only does this build confidence, but it burns mental energy - something many owners do not realize they need to expend in a dog.


7) Feeding Too Much

I have found that most owners feed their dogs way too much. Most dogs' stomachs are about half the size of their heads, and need more time to digest than humans do. Most people tend to listen exclusively to veterinarians for dietary advice, and more often than not, Vets are paid off by companies to sell product as much as they can - and often sell poor quality junk type dog foods, and tell you to feed way too much. Most dogs only need to eat once or twice a day, and only enough to fill that little stomach. For instance, a chihuahua should only be getting a half cup of food twice a day, and larger dog, such as a boxer, should be eating about 2 cups total per day. Over feeding leads to weight gain and an explosive amount of energy that must be burned off.


6) Feeding Too Late At Night

Another issue I come across quite a lot is owners feeding their dogs way too late in the day. Unlike humans, dogs don't "reset" overnight like humans do. Dogs' energy piles up on them, and can mount up for days at a time, especially if they are fed and then expected to sleep. Dogs need about 4 to 6 hours to digest, and still need exercise after a meal in order for them not to be crazy the next day. Dogs should be fed early in the morning, as early as possible, and in the afternoon - dogs should never be fed close to bed time, or in the evening, unless you're a night owl. Expecting a dog to eat and then sleep is about as unfair as giving a toddler ice cream before a nap - and I'm sure some of you knows how effective THAT would be.


5) Walking Too Late At Night

Just like feeding too late, walking too late can also be an issue. While you should always walk a dog after they've eaten, walking them exclusively at night leads to detrimental problems. If dogs cannot reset at night, they have to wait all day to walk and be fed, then they have to sleep on all that energy, only to wake up and wait all day again. Try doing this yourself once, and see how not fun it is. Then imagine all that energy carries over to the next morning, instead of refreshing overnight as you sleep. I'm sure you can see why this causes all kinds of problems. Most dogs need at least 2 hours as early in the morning as humanly possible, preferably around sunrise, and also in the afternoon after a meal. Some dogs, like Shepherds or Collies, need 6 or more hours of exercise after every meal. It can be quite the undertaking!


4) Not Being Consistent

If it is a rule not to bark at the door, it should always be a rule not to bark at the door, even if the mayor comes over for tea. Many owners let behaviour slide when other people are around because they are focused on the other people - but this is very confusing for a dog. Some can even become disobedient around other people because of this, and leave the owner frustrated and confused because they "know better". Honestly, they know exactly what's going on - that they don't have to obey all the time.


3) Not Claiming Dog Behaviours As Their Own Fault, And Making Up Excuses

How many times have you heard a dog owner say "Oh he's just frustrated" when their dog nips at your kid, or blush and try and say their dog is "Very Social" as they pull their owners trying to rush over? Every owner has had these moments, but the truth is, dogs are little mirrors - they show us the parts inside of ourselves that need changing. All dog behaviour is directly caused by the humans in their lives, and whether it's fun to admit it or not, all dog problems are people problems. It is very important that humans claim these issues, and change them, instead of excusing them.


2) Not Fulfilling Breed Need

Border Collies need to herd, Heelers and Rottweilers need to, too; Akitas, Shepherds, and Malinois' need to guard, Jack Russells, Labradors, and Pointers need to hunt, and Pitbulls need to be around their family. These sentiments are nothing new, but a surprising amount of owners don't realize how important the breed need really is. If your dog loves to bite and chew on things, it needs to be given a constructive outlet - otherwise it become a destructive problem. If you purchase or adopt a dog, be aware of what a dog needs - because they are just going with instinct, and it is unfair of the human to expect their dog to fit in a perfect dog-box and not present breed behaviours. All breeds have a specific need; from prey drive to protection work, your pup needs to be encouraged to outlet that energy in a safe environment.

1) Thinking Their Dog Is Obeying When They Are Just Making You Shut Up

If you have to command your dog more than once, it isn't obeying. Some dogs end up needing to be told "sit" 6 or 7 times before they listen, and most often, they do it for a couple seconds, then go back to what they were doing before, or not complying at all. Unfortunately, this is not obedience. This is the dog just wanting to make you stop talking to them. They have learned that your command means "if you want to" and they are not taking you seriously. If you have to catch their attention before they obey more than once, you're not pack leader. Does your walk sound something like this? "Pup. Sit. Sit. Sit. Hey, come here. Pup. Hey. Sit. SIT. PUP, SIT." and the dog is totally ignoring you, or half sits then walks away? Your dog is basically making you stop talking. They are not taking you seriously, and it's time to go all the way back to puppy-level training basics.


Hopefully, you didn't score any of the top ten! Good luck out there, guys!

5 Best Breeds For Beginner Owners, And 10 Breeds To Stay Away From - Blog Nine

It's no secret that there are breeds of dogs that are far more complicated than others, and breeds that should be owned by experienced dog-masters only - many other breeds fall into this category. But, what about breeds that are a little more forgiving for people who haven't owned a dog before, or have limited experience in reading dogs? This blog post is all about the breeds that are the best candidates for beginners!

After, we will go over 10 breeds that beginners should not bring in to their homes until they gain more experience - and this goes for all beginners, including trainers that haven't trained them before. These breeds are usually the most problematic for inexperienced owners.

Beginner Breeds

1) Labrador/Golden Retriever

Not surprisingly, the first breed that is great for beginners is the Retriever. These dogs are generally well balanced, forgiving, and gentle, and can tolerate some newbie mistakes without having too many detrimental behaviour problems. That being said, Retrievers can go sour very fast if they are not exercised enough. Retrievers need quite a lot of exercise; some need at least 6 hours of intense, high-level exercise every day, so if you are not an active person, and work most of the day, a Retriever is not the right fit for you.

2) Mastiffs

This addition might surprise you, but most Mastiffs are lazy, slow, and really easy going. They only need a couple hours of exercise every day, and when given a job or some kind of mental exercise, Mastiffs are very easy to manage. They are fine with spending most of the day on the couch with you. They do need more mental exercise than physical, meaning they need to use their minds every day, or they tend to get bored - and bring out behaviours like aggression or destruction to occupy their minds themselves. If you have a bit of a longer work day and prefer to have a dog that can be either active with you or lazy, the Mastiff is a great fit, but if you're not into brain games such as fetch, search, or training your dog to perform tasks, steer clear of the Mastiff.

3) Great Dane

Contrary to popular belief, Great Danes are actually very lazy, low energy dogs that can fit themselves into the space they need to fit in. That isn't to say they don't need exercise, but they need lesser than most large dogs - they can even handle skipping a day. Training wise, they do need a little extra vigilance, however as long as they get a good balance of mental and physical exercise, Great Danes make great pets. If you're the type to have changing shifts and can't always get them outside, this is the dog for you - however, if you can't handle at least 2 hours of walking when you can get out, this isn't a good fit.

4) Greyhound

While famous for how fast they can run, Greyhounds are actually pretty lazy. They love to run, but once they're done, they're done. You can easily tire a Greyhound out in an hour, and spend some time exercising the brain. Overall, Greyhounds are simple to train, and easy to tire out - excellent for those who are retired, or maybe don't work all day. However, Greyhounds don't do too well alone - and someone who works full time shouldn't consider a Greyhound.

5) Cocker Spaniel

These pups are usually very hyper, high energy dogs that very quickly spiral out of control - often becoming unruly. The realty is, Cockers just need to know what is expected of them, and plenty of activities. They suit a family where someone is home to be with them and keep them active, and even an active retired couple, or even a single part-timer. They can be left alone if they're exercised, but watch out - Cockers need three or four hours of activity and mental stimulation, so they aren't great for someone who works all day.


Breeds to Steer Clear of as a Beginner


1) Chihuahua

They might be small and cute, but these dogs have a lot of needs - exercise, mental stimulation, spot-on training, accurate behaviour management, and they're pretty smart - they know exactly what they can get away with. They might be little, but they can get out of control very fast in the hands of someone who can't read and respond to the very fast, minor queues that a dog is exhibiting. Chihuahuas need a moderate amount of exercise, about two hours every morning - but they need many hours of mental stimulation - upwards of four or more hours, and they need someone who can communicate immediately what is unacceptable. Most Chihuahuas are picked to be placed in a purse or bag and coddled like a baby, or over protected because of their size. This is very destructive to the breed, because they don't understand they are small - they also don't need coddling. Train them right, and you won't have a problem.

2) Bully Breeds (Pit Bull Terrier, Staffordshire Terrier, Bulldogs, ect)

Everyone knows the media loves to demonize Pit Bulls Terriers and their cousins, blaming the breed instead of the owner. People are starting to realize that Pit Bulls aren't dangerous, but there are a select few that still believe they are incredibly dangerous killing machines. The honest truth with all Bully Breeds is they are not only stubborn and mentally slow, but they are also very unforgiving with training mistakes. If you miss out on behaviour management or communication that something is unacceptable, Bully Breeds tend to think they can ALWAYS get away with something, and often do it the second time with incredible stubbornness. They also need lots of exercise every day, both mental and physical - and only someone who can stay on top of behaviours should own one. That being said, most Bully Breeds are actually very well adjusted, patient, gentle, forgiving breeds that just simply need more guidance and exercise. There has never been a case where a Bully Breed has been at fault for an incident that wasn't directly caused by human lack of experience.

3) German/Belgian Shepherds

Being police dogs, Shepherds are bred to work, perform, and be "on" all the time. Because of this, even the pet lines of Shepherds have this trait. They need all day exercise and training, and on-the-ball owners that don't miss a thing. Most under-trained Shepherds become frustrated, and become aggressive or destructive because of lack of leadership. They do make excellent working dogs, and should be considered as such -  not home pups.

4) Boxers

Take the most obnoxious pre-teenage boy you can think of, and put him on a sugar buzz, and there you have the Boxer. These dogs are very high energy, right up there with the Border Collie, and almost as intelligent. Boxers can and will get away with murder if you let them, and they need high intensity exercise and training with hallmark consistency every day. Without perfect leadership, Boxers turn hyper, destructive, crazy, and nippy, and without fast and effective intervention, you could have a serious situation on your hands, especially if your Boxer stops taking you seriously. It is most definitely a breed for those whom have had a few dogs in their life already.

5) Rottweilers

Originally intended as farm workers and guard dogs, Rotties are not for beginners. They do have a high please drive, but they lack intelligence. This makes them great guard dogs, but also very slow to learn, slow to change, and slow to adapt. Their owners must be able to know the "safe" line between guarding behaviour and dominance, and protection drive and aggression. Without the knowledge of that distinction, Rottweilers can become freight trains with no braking system. It takes an expert to bring them back to a safe level again, and it is far easier to prevent these behaviours before they become habits. The Rottweiler is not a beginner's dog.

6) Shih-Tsu

Small, not terribly hyper, and hypo-allergenic, these little mops are a popular choice among families and the retired, because they don't need as much exercise as most little dogs - or so they think. Shih Tsus were bred to be small personal alarm systems in China, during a time when women were not safe alone. Because of this, Shih Tsus have many generations of hyper, alarmist, possessive lines in their blood, and it shows. Shih Tsus are not very smart, stubborn, and usually bond with just one family member, usually becoming distant, ignorant, and aggressive towards anyone else. Shih Tsus often bark at and charge the door, any sound outside of their home, and generally any people that come near their chosen person. Once separate from that person, they become displaced, confused, and sometimes anxious to the point of shutting down. Shih Tsus actually need 2 to 3 hours of exercise every day, and some mental stimulation, but they also need a spot on owner that can communicate that it's alarmist behaviour is unacceptable after a certain point, and what to do with it instead.

7) Poodles and poodle mixes

Poodles are very popular - they can be mixed with everything to produce a curly, waterproof or water resistant coat, to pass on high intelligence, and poise - but with that poise and intelligence comes a double edged sword. Poodles are the third most intelligent dog in the world, but lack the please-drive that the Border Collie (number one) and German Shepherd (number two) have. This means the dog could care less if it is making you happy or not, which presents a common training problem - you have to teach the dog to obey you when it doesn't want to. Often, Poodles know exactly what's expected, and even a perfectly trained specimen can have this happen - but they decide that, nah, I'm not to listen today, I don't want to, and I don't have to. They can switch from taking you seriously to thinking you're useless in half a second. Most Poodles need to be trained with high value rewards instead of praise. They also need a lot of exercise and twice as much mental stimulation, which presents a problem if they're not interested in performing just because their human wants them to. Poodles need constant stellar attentiveness, and an experienced owner that knows how to manipulate a super-intelligent non-please driven breed.

8) Huskies/Malamutes

Sled dogs are growing in popularity south of Northern Canada, and as such, the demand is ever increasing, and back yard breeders are popping up everywhere. This is not only putting a strain on healthy breeding lines, but it's also polluting the genes, and causing massive problems. Many Husky or Malamute lines have a large percentage of wild wolf in them now, and most are not responsibly bred. Huskies and Malamutes are also high-drive performing working breeds that are bred specifically to run all day and pull heavy weight behind them, and when they don't have that job, their exercise needs goes through the roof - as well, behavioural problems arise. With wolf DNA in the vast majority of Huskies and Malamutes, due to the demand of puppies across North America, these dogs are very "raw" - they are wilder than other breeds, and need expert communication on pack mastery. These dogs should remain sled dogs or working dogs, and should never be used as a simple pet dog. They have the need to work right in their blood, and havoc ensues when these needs aren't met.

9) Collies/Heelers

Bred to run and corral animals, Collie and Heeler breeds are high energy, high intelligence working breeds that desperately need to heel and organize things. On top of needing six to twelve hours of high intensity running every day, Collie and Heeler breeds also have an intense desire to heel that has to be fulfilled - either on sheep, or the next best things - cats, children, ankles - anything that might flee from them and squeal. Collie and Heeler breeds shouldn't be kept outside of farms or a place where they can heel, and if they are, they need to have some form of herding outlet - even fetch. These dogs might be easy to train, but behaviour wise, they can go sour very fast if they do not have an outlet to heel.

10) Shelter Dogs

Everyone loves to rescue dogs - that satisfaction you get from helping a dog that has been forgotten or mistreated in some way, but let me caution you - these dogs always come with their own issues, sometimes severe - and because of that, they shouldn't be your first dog. You will need to know how to undo someone else's damage - and because new owners don't always know how to do this, it's far easier to start from a puppy that a responsible breeder has produced - because if you can't repair another human's damage on a dog, that dog might not trust or respect humans ever again.


That's everything for this blog, stay tuned for the next one!

Top Six Dog Myths - Blog Eight

Hey everyone! Today's blog is about aggression. I've seen a few articles floating around that seem to be spreading misinformation, so today's topic focuses on setting these myths straight, and the facts about what aggression really is.

Top six myths:

1) Dogs become aggressive because their mother or father were that way, too.
While genetics does play a part in whether or not a dog has a likelihood of showing some early aggression, it's not all the parent's fault. When a puppy shows tendencies to be dominant, or aggressive, it's really easy to channel this energy into something constructive, or to train the puppy to respond to stimulus differently. Behaviourally speaking, a puppy is like a bit of clay; ultimately, the human molds the dog into the character he or she is most comfortable with. Personality wise, they're usually pretty solid.

2) Breed specifies a dog's behaviour, and nature.
Dog breed is nothing more than skin deep. Breeds can and do have typical traits that follow along with the skin they're in, but that's because it is encouraged by things like genetics, human intervention, and training. Some dogs might be more skilled in certain areas due to genes, but this isn't specifically dictated by breed. Breed influences things like height, weight, physical specifications like color, leg length, energy level, eye color, things like that; but, one dog passes on it's skill set to the puppies - which is why you can find German Shepherds that are excellent police dogs, while Pointers are better at hunting, or Mastiffs are best at guarding. Any breed can produce police dogs, hunters, or guarders, if the parents were naturals. No breed is specifically known for its aggression, but some breeds can switch quicker from balanced to unbalanced, which can earn them a reputation. Over the last 50 or so years, several breeds have been singled out and forgotten, fad-like, when the breed isn't the issue.

3) Aggressive dogs need to learn their place in the pack.
This could not be farther from the truth. While aggression is a blanket term for many different types of behaviour, it is not a pack structure problem, unless the dog is also showing signs of dominance. Aggression is actually several different types of behaviour, and very rarely is it associated with pack structure problems. Dominant-Aggression however is more common, and is mistakenly titled as many other issues, such as "he just doesn't like this," or "he listens when he's calm".

4) Aggression is caused by human failings.
Often, this is the case, but sometimes, a dog's behaviour can be totally unrelated to the owner or the family. Aggression can be caused by several different issues, but regardless, it isn't solely caused by human failings.

5) The alpha-roll is the best way to communicate to your dog that they aren't in control.
The alpha-roll, or pinning your dog on it's side until it submits, is old fashioned, and bully-like in nature. When you do this to your dog, your pet has no way to differentiate your actions between a predator-and-pray scenario or a correction in behaviour - essentially, your dog thinks you are trying to kill it. This is why they fight and struggle to get away from you. Regardless to what style of training you choose to use, the alpha-roll should not be a tool in your toolbox, unless it is a life-or-death scenario, such as a dog attacking a child and you cannot put the dog on lead, or similar situations where bringing the dog away or restraining/crating it is not an immediate option. Be prepared for yor dog to lose trust in you if you use this technique. If you've used it already, and your dog's behaviour has worsened, seek help immediately.

6) Anxiety is common in dogs, especially with those that whine and howl when they're alone or bite when they're confronted with something that makes them anxious.
Anxiety in dogs isn't even a thing. It doesn't exist. Dogs don't feel anxiety like humans do. They feel fear and nervousness, but not anxiety. Situations like "separation anxiety", when it is truly a pack structure problem, was initially invented by vets and pharmacies in order to create pity around the situation to make owners spend money on meds, when the real problem is what I call "mommy syndrome" (or, daddy syndrome, as the case may be). When a dog is in control, sometimes they become dominant, and other times, they think their humans are their puppies. When humans disappear, they have no knowledge of where their "puppies" went, when they're coming back, or what happened. In their fear and panic, dogs suffering from "mommy syndrome" can whine, howl, eliminate in the house, all ways to guide the puppies home through smell and sound, or occupy their panicked minds by destroying things.


When the term aggression is used, it's a blanket term that encompasses many different types of behaviours. True aggression by itself is rare; it's the type of behaviour that makes you think of a crazed junkyard dog with no boundaries whatsoever, or a wolf with rabies. This true aggression is extremely rare, and is almost always one of the other sub-types of negative behaviour. Aggression can be broken into many main types. Please note, there are far more subtypes and possible interactions that I have not listed. It would be a full course of information to cover it all. I am glossing over the most common types that owners see, or identify.

True Aggression
This behaviour is the most violent, baseless physical attacking that one usually sees in pit fighters. In pet dogs, true aggression is next to impossible, as they are with humans that are genuinely trying to do their best for the dog, regardless to whether or not those actions are helpful or accurate. A true aggressive dog is likely to have been abused, either currently or in the past, or has had a traumatic upbringing.

Fear-Defensiveness
When a dog is scared, they either react to look aggressive, or they shut down. Fear-defensiveness is when a dog growls, hides, or freezes, eliminates, or whines, and moves away, or any mix of the above. Its characteristic of a resistance to face whatever they are scared of.

Fear-Aggression
Instead of hiding and fleeing, fearful dogs can fake an aggressive reaction to reassure themselves, and scare off whatever is scaring them. This is signalled by feirce growling, snarling, snapping, warning nips, and high pitched barking. It is usually worse in sight and sound than anything else, and they rarely every actually bite until they think they have to attack to defend themselves. These dogs have learned that teeth and show get them what they want; the scary thing to back away.

Pain-Induced Aggression
If a dog is injured, or is caused to be in pain for whatever cause, a common response is for the dog to become aggressive based on the fear that they will be hurt again. Sometimes, when a dog doesn't know what caused the pain, they can lash out at everything. This can either be an instant reaction, or it can be a life-long struggle from a serious injury.

Dominance
Being different from dominant-aggression, pure dominance is not an aggression issue, but I felt it needed to be covered. Aggressionless dominance can be identified if your dog does not listen all of the time, walks with his tail erect and stiff, pretends not to hear you, pees in the home (adult dogs, who know better), or doesn't appear to take you seriously. At a low level, it can look harmless, but if allowed to continue, it can branch into frustration, and dominant-aggression.

Dominant-Aggresion
With all of the previous description's symptoms, dominant-aggression is the next step above that, and can be identified if your dog guards toys, food, delivers warning nips, herds you or your family, charges at and barks at the door in an intense manner, growls at or attacks your guests, is unruly on walks, and/or is violent or pushy in regards to his desires.

Passive Dominance
When a dog is in the position of control and does not want to be there, they usually end up thinking that it is their duty to protect their family, and does not know how to do so. Without the skills to manage a pack of their own, they can become a mix of dominant and obedient, but easily submit the role of leader, because they don't want that position.

Fear-Dominance
When a dog is afraid of something, sometimes they believe they need to control it. These dogs are often very unstable, and show signs of fear-defensiveness, fear-aggression, and dominant-aggression. These dogs should not be trained by the owners, and a professional should be called in immediately.

Boredom
When a dog gets bored, while this isn't a type of aggression, it can be mistaken for many aggressive symptoms. When a dog's needs aren't being met, they become bored. A bored dog will lick their paws like a cat does, pace, bark at things, bite/chew items, get into trouble seemingly on purpose, display low level willful disobedience (when you have to tell them what to do 4 times before they lazily do it), and nipping at your feet, among other mildly annoying habits. This is a sign your dog needs to walk, or play with you.

Frustration/Tantrum/Neuroticism
If your dog has gone past simple boredom, and they are displaying more intense symtoms caused by such things as from not enough walking, not enough play time, not enough rules, not enough heath care, the wrong kind of food, inconsistent leadership, or a dog simply not wanting to listen (willful disobedience), the dog has no way to fulfil this level of excess energy by themselves, so they become frustrated, act out in a tantrum, or become hyper-obsessed with something, in order to try and fulfil that need. Symptoms of this include getting into the trash/breaking your things, attacking the leash or handler on a walk, destroying toys, or neurotic behaviours like spinning, digging, bum-dragging (when not a medical issue), digging at the dog bed/dragging it all over the house, hiding items along the walls, obsessive licking, paw-licking, chasing animals that don't appear to be there, running in circles around your yard, and many other habits that are not usual for a calm, balanced dog.

I missed several subtypes, but this should give you a good picture for you!

Top Six Odd Dog Things - Blog Seven

Hi everyone! Today's topic is 6 odd things dogs do, and what they mean! Hopefully today's insights help unlock a little more understanding with your dog! Be forewarned, there are a couple squeamish points in this blog!

1) Dragging the bum across the floor or chewing on their flanks/anus.

The common assumption about this is that it is a game, or that it simply feels good. Most owners wish their dogs would not drag their hinds across the floor, especially on their nice clean carpets. Sometimes, all of a sudden, dogs will flip about and start ravenously chewing at their hinds, as if someone glued a steak to it. Sometimes people may think it's nothing to worry about - but is it?

When a dog is dragging it's bum across a carpet or chewing on their hind, it's one of a couple causes. In their anus, dogs have a sac that is filled with mucus that coats the poop so it isn't painful to the dog to secrete it. Sometimes, these sacs are so effective, the mucus builds up, and it needs expressing. A vet can show you how to do this, or you can pay them to do it - either way, the little sacs have become over filled, and since your dog has no thumbs, they have to try and express it themselves, by chewing the area, or dragging their bums across something in order to release the excess mucus. You can have a look; if the anus looks bigger than it should, or if they seem to be sensitive, you've found your cause.

If, however, the anus does not look large or sensitive, the cause is one of two other things - there is a chance your dog has an allergy. Not always do dogs get hives, or obvious symptoms such as loose stool or vomit; sometimes, they just get an itchy bum! If there is no obvious enlargening, you more than likely have an allergic pooch!

If there is no swelling, and your dog is not allergic, then you more than likely have a paracite in your pooch's pooper. Sometimes, you can see them - they can look like grains of rice, or bits of thread - but not always. In any case, your dog needs to see the vet, and quickly. If they are dragging bums or chewing often, this is a sign whatever is causing it is driving them crazy with itching - and a vet will need to intervene.

If nothing else comes up, if all avenues have been exhausted, and your vet has cleared the medical side, it means your dog is bored and has learned that doing this expends his energy. They need more exercise! They could also be suffering from a neurological condition, and if they can't seem to stop with exercise, your dog will need a psychological exam. (Yes, those exist for dogs). Your vet should have recommended this, if the medical side was inconclusive. If not, try a different vet!

2) Chewing/licking on their paws constantly.

Most people associate this with cats, or a type of grooming - but dogs do this too. Sometimes, it really is grooming - but dogs don't lick their paws as habitually as cats for a grooming reason. If they are grooming, they will lick other spots too, and only briefly. Dogs prefer to swim, unless they have a fear about water - which is a learned behaviour. So, if dogs aren't as super clean as cats, why is your dog licking or chewing all the time?

If they are chewing or licking a lot, more than a passing lick or chew every few days, check it for cracks, burns, sores, slivers, or heat sores. The pads should be leathery and soft, and the skin of the paw should be thin and warm. If there is nothing present, then your dog is bored. They wants to burn their extra energy, but have no way of doing so. Some dogs will get into trouble, but some just flop over and attend to their paws. Your dog is communicating that they need to walk or run.

3) Bringing items away and hiding them in odd places.

In a single-dog household, this is a symptom of a couple things - too much energy, and insecurity. Fearful-type dogs that are unsure if they are going to be able to keep something will hide it from everyone else. With food, when they take it and scamper away and look around, they think someone is going to come take it away. Its not a sign you're taking too many things away, its a sign your dog is unstable. Call in help at this point, as your dog no longer trusts anyone.

In a multi-dog household, the cause is the same, but instead of the cause being human, the cause is another dog. One of your dogs is causing the retreater to feel scared and like they need to hoard things to keep them. If this is happening, you will need help soon - because it is a sign that something is wrong in the pack dynamics. Call us when you can.

However, if your dog is confident in everything else and seems to be hiding things in obvious spots such as along a wall or taking food and leaving it around, chances are there is something neurological going on and there is some kind of disorder happening - or, they need more exercise. Sensing a theme, here? Dogs tend to break the norm when they're bored. First, try doubling your exercise for a week. If nothing is happening, see your vet, and call us for help.

4) Barking/Growling at nothing or at the wall.

While strange and seemingly haunting, as if they're reacting to a spirit, this is not the case. Dogs can hear things we can't - birds outside, kids playing across the street, cars driving past, ambulances a while away - all of these things can take them by surprise and make them bark in the direction of the sound, kind of like when someone startles you and you look at them and gasp or scream. Ninety percent of the time, they have heard something you did not. In the rare cases, dogs can have suspicious reactions to things, which they forget about, then suddenly think about it or see it, and cause them to bark or growl. Maybe a picture on the wall startled them when a door opened, or perhaps they tripped on the rug once. In very rare cases, the dog has a neurological condition, but this should only be suspect when you cannot break them from their attention and it occcurs all day every day type of behaviour. You can try exercising them more as a process of elimination, and then leave the radio on, and see if it stops. If the exercise stops it, they were bored. If the radio stops it, they were hearing something. If it does not stop, they have gotten a suspicious worry about something, or it is neurological in nature.

5) Darting under the table/into the crate/under items when someone comes over.

Dogs that are afraid often do this. It makes them feel safer, and as if they will not be hurt or confronted in these spots. Fearful dogs don't always slink away and cower; sometimes, they hide away and bark. If your dog is doing this, it means they need some confidence. Do not allow them to hide and bark; keep them on leash, and make them face the fear, and give them more exercise - if they're too tired to move away, they are too tired to fear as deeply as they were before. Call us to help you rehabilitate your scared dog.

6) Honking/Chortle sound.

Good news - it's harmless! Just like we sneeze and cough at smells, dust, and minor viruses, so do dogs! It happens to sound a lot worse given that their noses and throats are a lot bigger than ours. They also do it when pulling on a leash, because they cannot breathe. Teaching respectful walking and proper leash skills are essential so your dog does not choke themselves out - a harness also won't solve the root of the problem. Surprisingly, dogs can also be allergic to pollen and dander! It sounds funny, but it can make them react just like us! It's nothing to worry about unless they are also acting strangely, or with lethargy. If they are, see a vet immediately.


Overall, many issues with dogs can be solved with exercise - most people underestimate the amount of exercise their dogs need by HALF. Dogs also reset their exercise at night - so if you walk them before bed, you're essentially walking for nothing. Early in the morning, as early as possible, is the best time to walk your dog. Even little dogs like Chihuahuas and Pomeranians need at least 2 hours per day. If they don't get it, that energy carries on to the next day, unlike when they burn energy and it resets overnight, so your dog could very well have their entire age worth of too much energy! Larger dogs like Border Collies and Huskies top the list at needing an astonishing 12 hours of exercise every day, and not just walking, but running! If your dog isn't flopping over and can't get up to walk after you, they're not "done" yet!

Separation Anxiety Doesn't Exist - Blog Six

Hey everyone, its been a while since our last post, so it's time for a new post! Today's topic will be the ever prevalent and over-used "separation anxiety" - why it doesn't exist, what it really is, and how to address it!

It is no secret that the veterenarian/pet care industry and food and drug administration make the most money when patients are not healthy - they profit the most off of people and pets that keep coming back for more care under the premise of getting better. But, what happens when there is nothing wrong? What profit is there to make off of the healthy? There isn't, unless you are selling food, clothing, toilet paper, or vitamins, because everyone needs those things (or food, toys, treats, and leashes for dogs). Veterinarians make money mostly off of pet owners that need to fix a severe injury, illness, or spaying and neutering. In fact, that is the largest part of their income. Prescriptions, whether for pet or human have dire side effects, and don't always work - most of the time, they make you worse in other ways, and recent research suggests that they're not really working much at all, depending on what prescription you're taking. Why am I talking about this? Well, when a dog is healthy, doesn't need a drug or a vet visit, how are vets and the pet industry supposed to make a profit? They can't.

Let me make a side note here in mentioning that veterinarians are not trained at all in canine behaviour, psychology, or eating needs. They should never be consulted in regards to behaviour issues, or what brand of food to eat. Some vets have their own animals and may have reliable advice, but they are not trained in it – just as Ideal Companions is not trained in a dog's medical needs. Please do not take your vet's word on training or foods, as they are often offered a bonus from food companies to sell you their brand – most commonly is science diet, which is not healthy. Also, please don't come to a trainer with medical needs unadressed.

Now, in order to get healthy people to spend money on medically healthy dogs, the vets and pharmacies agreed to create a situation where drugs were necessary. How do you get pet owners to spend money on healthy dogs? Find a pesky behaviour, and assign an emotion to it that draws pity. Anxiety. Before this term came to be, dogs were treated as either people-oriented or afraid to be alone. It was something wrong with training, and their learned personalities from the mother dog. Once the vets started calling it Anxiety, people immediately wanted to know how to fix it – and thus is born an entirely new industry – dog emotion control. By labelling something training-learned with an emotion, thousands of dog owners did not have to take responsibility for their dog's behaviour and was able to medicate it.

So, if Separation Anxiety is not really an emotional problem, why is my dog breaking out of its crate, chewing up my house, destroying my garbage can, or defacating all over my home when I am gone?

Mommy complex (or daddy completx as the case may be). Call it what you wish, in every case, the cause is the same. Dogs need to know who is in control, and who is following. When the owner does not offer this clarity, the dog believes they are the one who is in control. Some dogs simply do not listen to every command given, some become aggressive, and some get mommy complex. If their human cannot offer the stability of control in their language, they take over. It is either one or the other; there is no such thing as mutual understandings, no time where it switches back and forth. When this need is not fulfilled, the dog takes over. When they get mommy complex, they begin to see their owners as their puppies, or their younger pack mates.

It is unnatural for a dog to be separate from his or her puppies, ever. They bond, they stay close, and they take on the world together. When a dog with mommy complex is left behind alone, they are suddenly without their puppies (the owners). They believe it is their job to protect the puppies no matter where they are (characterized by barking energetically at the door, not listening, or behaviours such as urinating in the home to mark terretory, scratching the ground after defacating, and fearful habits such as cowering, growling, and a resistance to commands). If they cannot get to their puppies, they are essentially caught in a loop. “My puppies are lost. I have to find my puppies. I need to protect my puppies. I can't see my puppies. I have to find my puppies. I need to protect my puppies....” When this happens, because they do not understand the human world, they must occupy their minds until their puppies come home. This is accomplished by nervous behaviours such as chewing things and destruction (to spend the extra energy), fearful behaviours such as howling and barking (to signal to the puppies to return), and dominant behaviours such as marking and defacating in the home (to increase the scent so the puppies can smell it and come back). It is essentially caused by a need to control you, and the inability to accomplish that goal.

This behaviour is actually encouraged quite quickly by otherwise innocent looking behaviours such as greeting your dog with excitement when they are bouncing and “happy” looking when you come home, feeding them when they bark at you, petting them or picking them up to calm them down, letting them free of their crate or rooms when they are still excited, or even putting them in the crate when they are excited, under exercised, or afraid to begin with. When you leave a dog in those states, they have no way of knowing what the human is doing – they only know that they have been left behind in an unstable state, which sends the message that they messed up so badly that they deserve to be removed from the pack (which will bring more instability and worsen the behaviour or turn it into aggression/frustration which is when the dog needs immediate intervention) or that their puppies have vanished on them and causes mommy complex.

How do I solve this problem? Do I have to take them everywhere with me? Leaving a dog alone isn't the problem – neither is leaving them in a crate. In fact, it is supposed to be a time of relaxation and waiting, not a source of obsession or punishment. Taking your dog everywhere won't solve the problem, because it is a training issue. It is essentially like putting a bandaid on a broken leg. You might not see it, but the issue is still there, and it will pop out in other ways and can often compound and get severe in other areas, and will cause your dog to stop trusting you – if this hasn't happened already because of mommy complex. In order to repair this damaged relationship, you need to go back to square one, and in some cases, dogs will need all new equipment in order to readjust the learned behaviours of the items you use now. You will need to re-teach what the crate means, what stay means, and that even though you vanish, you will come back. Absolute basics must be retaught – and if your dog just isn't listening, starts to shy away, yelps when you come close, or starts getting aggressive, contact us for immediate help – there is a chance your relationship with your dog may not recover.

Another side note, you should never leave a dog unattended for more than four hours – five at the absolute most, and puppies under 6 months no more than an hour or two - without coming to allow the dog to relieve itself and have time to see you. Any longer than four hours, and you run the risk of your dog messing in their crate, and losing trust in you. To a dog, four hours is a very long time. They may love the crate, they may enjoy the time alone, but it is inuhmane to leave a dog longer than that time, and often causes severe behaviour problems – as well as medical ones. If you are in a job where bringing your dog is a possibility, using a crate can help associate the crate with calm relaxation – like a bedroom! As a note, it is illegal in BC to leave a dog in a car unattended without shade and water. Even if they have both, the car cannot be in the sun. It is also legal to break a dog free of a car if the dog is in distress. Puppies that are teething also need to chew, and often will do so on your throw pillows or couch to satisfy the pain – don't mix this up with mommy complex.

If I can't bring my dog with me, and I can't safely leave them alone, what do I do? You must reassess the dog's needs. If it is impossible to retrain crating, and your dog is too mistrustful of you, consider rehoming your dog, or calling Ideal Companions to help you. Retraining a crate can be as simple as changing a behaviour, or changing it's location, or even something as simple as changing your own habits. If you are not in control, you need to become in control. When you are in control, your dog does not hide under the table. She does not bark at the door as if the person behind it is going to murder your whole family. She does not pull on the leash. She does not growl at people, or try and bite them. She does not bounce and vibrate when you come home. She does not protect her food or toys. She does not defacate in the home, or pee everywhere. She does not destroy things. The list is large. For everything the dog does, she needs to know whether you like or dislike it. Everything they see, do, or touch needs rules and boundaries, and most of all they need positive reinforcement. Do not tell your dog no, no, no no, no all day – teach them what is safe, and what is not – and you will have your Ideal Companion!

Sources
Prescriptions not helping/killing: http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/10/26/prescription-drugs-number-one-cause-preventable-death-in-us.aspx
http://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-10952/are-prescription-drugs-killing-you-and-your-kids.html

Illegal to leade dogs in cars:http://www.dogsafe.ca/blog/2011/8/Dogs_in_Hot_Cars_Understanding_Heat_Stroke_and_the_Law
http://www.spca.bc.ca/pet-care/health-safety/dogs-in-hot-cars.html
http://www.victoria.ca/assets/City~Hall/Bylaws/bylaw-11-044.pdf
^ This is the actual bylaw for Victoria.

Other illegal things people do with dogs:http://www.vacs.ca/regulations/leash-regulations

Separation Anxiety help:http://caymancare.ky/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/seperation-Anxiety.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Separation_anxiety_in_dogs

Dogs 101 - Blog Five

Hello, readers!

It has been a while since our last blog; we have been busy training, gained some insight, and new experiences, so I decided it was high time to pen one down! In this blog, I will be talking about quite a few things; so hold on tight!

Genetically, dogs are descendants of wolves; they have their pack, and there is a structure within that pack. There is one leader, or a pair, and everyone else follows. When you bring a dog into your house, you become their pack; they find out where they land on that line by testing boundaries. Most dogs will give this up very quickly if you are consistent with the enforcement of rules, boundaries, and limitations. This is important to understand, no matter what breed or age your dog is. All well behaved dogs understand where they rank within the pack - and a balanced dog should be beneath every human in the home. If this is not true, then the dog is in control of one or more humans, and this is where behavior problems come in. If your dog understands that you and your family members are in command of the pack, then conflicts of pack command challenges, and certain behaviour issues will be less likely to occur. If you do not let your dog know that you like or dislike everything they do, they will become confused. There should be rules for everything they do.

Establishing a pack structure is not difficult. The pack commander gets all of the best things like sleeping place and food; they control the environment, who eats what, all behaviour, and when behaviour is inappropriate, they correct that behaviour and assert control over the offending member. Dogs do not come to us knowing the rules we expect them to follow; they have no knowledge or understanding of the very confusing human world. We have to teach them, and be patient, while they are learning. This is why everything they encounter needs rules. Your dog will not hate you if you disagree with something are doing; they may protest immediately, but they appreciate the boundaries. That being said, with a young puppy, for everything you stop, you should provide them with an acceptable alternative. For example, if your dog is play biting, yelp with a high pitched voice, like they really hurt you badly, and as soon as they stop, offer them a chew toy. You can also give a chew toy after correction for chewing on items they shouldn't be. If they are chasing the cat, teach them fetch.

You should also restrict space when a puppy is still learning. Controlling space is easy; in the beginning, if you cannot devote all of your attention to your dog at that moment, they need to go into a crate or an ex-pen. Young puppies need to be given freedom very slowly, because if they are given too much control, they often wind up thinking they are in control - and it also prevents them from getting in to things they should not. They should be kept on leash in the house until you know they will listen to you the first time, every time, and are house trained. If you would like a greater explanation, please email us.

Controlling food is important, and is simple as well. Free feeding, or allowing a dog to eat whenever it wants, is very dangerous. This is a convenience thing for us; its easier to let them do this, but it sends the wrong message, and also disconnects you from a vital need the dog needs to understand comes straight from your hands, and doesn't just appear to be scavenged. We recommend having set feeding times, and leaving the food down for a specific period of time, and if the dog doesn't eat, put it away. Dogs will not starve themselves; they are very much like humans in they have times where they won't want to eat, or will eat at certain times. This will train your dog to eat when the human says to, not when they decide they want to - which enforces the human as the provider. It can take a few days for them to understand that they need to eat when you say so, but they will learn fast, and will not be stubborn about it for long. Also, always give your dog access to water, all day (except overnight when still house training).

Why do you need to teach your dog obedience skills? The simple reason is that it teaches your dog exactly what you want, gives them confidence, and lets them understand a small piece of the human world. Commands like sit, down, stay, and come, mean absolutely nothing to dogs. We give them meaning, and it ties into pack structure, as well as safety, and the ability to get your dog to place themselves into positions at command when you need them to. Certain training methods, however, will destroy your dog's personality, and essentially turn them into robots and teach them to listen, but not think for themselves. A few techniques like this involve strong corrections at a young age, the alpha roll, and dominance theory. We train dogs to pay attention to their owners, and to think for themselves, while maintaining the ability for them to have a personality. Without that personality, they no longer desire to be a dog. These techniques might look showy and have a rapid response from the dog, but it is so stressful on the dog that you're not just showing them "who is boss", but it shows them that they are not valuable to you as a dog. Please do not hire trainers that teach you to alpha roll your dog or engage in stern handed dominance theory. Conversely, don't take anyone seriously that tries to get you to train your dog that thinks pack structure is a myth.

I went to school to become a dog trainer, I finished a year long course in 6 months and passed with high honours. If you ask me to come help you, and I recommend that you take your dog to a vet, or that you need to buy a different collar, I am doing this because I have weighed the risks whether or not doing so will benefit you and your dog. I will always explain why I am asking you to do so, and it is something I do not do lightly. I know taking a dog to a vet is expensive, so is buying a collar or a leash. I am impartial. Please remember that I make no extra money off sending you to a vet, or asking you to buy certain equipment.

An example of lack of pack structure (and I will not use any names) is I recently encountered a client who asked me to come look at his dog. This dog was jumping up, play biting, pulling on leash, and was cited as being "violent" (which it wasn't). All three of these things are totally normal for a 7 month old puppy. The client didn't want his dog to become better behaved, or to establish anything I had talked about to achieve his goal; he simply wanted his dog to become less violent. We explained what needed to happen and why on the first session, showed him how to do what was asked, and then left. When we came back for the second session, we discovered none of the recommended training and been done, though because I had set rules boundaries and limitations, the dog's play biting lessened with me, but he was still doing a lot of it to the owner and other people.

This is a prime example of why pack structure is important. A dog is not going to change in personality if you teach them that you are in control. If a trainer is asking you to do too much too fast for you, it is important to ask them to slow down. This dog is now set up to become a very vicious pound-case write off, but not because the dog had a problem - the owner chose not to train the dog. We had several other recommendations that were ignored, some critical for the safety and training of the dog. None were followed. On the final session, we had another client graciously come out and help us as we needed to see how the dog was around other dogs. Socially, this dog needed supervision and management, but over all for a dog who is not used to being social with other dogs he did extremely well - and was not violent at all. Throughout our time helping this dog, the owner would tell us what we were seeing was normal for large breed dogs (which was inaccurate), and argue with us about exercise requirements, and passive-aggressively tell us we didn't know what we were talking about. His dog could only travel a few hundred meters before he shut down, mostly because of the attitude of the owner, and this hip wobble that caused us great concern. This was not normal for a species who is bred to run. We recommended that he take his dog to a groomer to help his dog prepare for the warmer weather (which he never did). The only recommendation that was followed (sort of) was getting a harness for the dog to use while he was running with his owner on a bike instead of having his leash clipped to a choke chain. The wrong kind and too big of a size was bought, and defeated the purpose of the item.

The reason I am telling you all of this (we have graduated very problematic dogs in a day or two), is because the progress this dog made was no where near where he should have been; and that is because the owner didn't follow the advice he had paid for me to give him. He expected me to work the dog and have it become different. I can set the rules up for any owner and their dog, but the reality is it, is not my place to be your dog's pack leader, that is up to you. It will not work, because your dog will respect ME - not you. It is my job to teach you how to get there, and teach your dog what is expected of them. I expect to be told what the problems are, what your expectations for your dog are, what rules you have, how you learn best, and how you have your life with your dog structured. With all of that information from you and what I see from the dog at the evaluation, I come up with a training plan. It is never set in stone, as how your dog responds to the initial plan dictates what happens, and we may discover something else needs to be addressed. It is always my goal to attain your goals as quickly as possible, while keeping your dog's personality alive, and making training fun for everyone involved. I love my job; I love helping dogs and their owners, and seeing the bond between owner and dog growing and becoming stronger, as well as the two getting a better understanding of each other. When we all work together, amazing things happen.

John

Head Trainer