Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Dogs 101 - Blog Five

Hello, readers!


It has been a while since our last blog; we have been busy training, gained some insight, and new experiences, so I decided it was high time to pen one down! In this blog, I will be talking about quite a few things; so hold on tight!


Genetically, dogs are descendants of wolves; they have their pack, and there is a structure within that pack. There is one leader, or a pair, and everyone else follows. When you bring a dog into your house, you become their pack; they find out where they land on that line by testing boundaries. Most dogs will give this up very quickly if you are consistent with the enforcement of rules, boundaries, and limitations. This is important to understand, no matter what breed or age your dog is. All well behaved dogs understand where they rank within the pack - and a balanced dog should be beneath every human in the home. If this is not true, then the dog is in control of one or more humans, and this is where behavior problems come in. If your dog understands that you and your family members are in command of the pack, then conflicts of pack command challenges, and certain behaviour issues will be less likely to occur. If you do not let your dog know that you like or dislike everything they do, they will become confused. There should be rules for everything they do.


Establishing a pack structure is not difficult. The pack commander gets all of the best things like sleeping place and food; they control the environment, who eats what, all behaviour, and when behaviour is inappropriate, they correct that behaviour and assert control over the offending member. Dogs do not come to us knowing the rules we expect them to follow; they have no knowledge or understanding of the very confusing human world. We have to teach them, and be patient, while they are learning. This is why everything they encounter needs rules. Your dog will not hate you if you disagree with something are doing; they may protest immediately, but they appreciate the boundaries. That being said, with a young puppy, for everything you stop, you should provide them with an acceptable alternative. For example, if your dog is play biting, yelp with a high pitched voice, like they really hurt you badly, and as soon as they stop, offer them a chew toy. You can also give a chew toy after correction for chewing on items they shouldn't be. If they are chasing the cat, teach them fetch.


You should also restrict space when a puppy is still learning. Controlling space is easy; in the beginning, if you cannot devote all of your attention to your dog at that moment, they need to go into a crate or an ex-pen. Young puppies need to be given freedom very slowly, because if they are given too much control, they often wind up thinking they are in control - and it also prevents them from getting in to things they should not. They should be kept on leash in the house until you know they will listen to you the first time, every time, and are house trained. If you would like a greater explanation, please email us.


Controlling food is important, and is simple as well. Free feeding, or allowing a dog to eat whenever it wants, is very dangerous. This is a convenience thing for us; its easier to let them do this, but it sends the wrong message, and also disconnects you from a vital need the dog needs to understand comes straight from your hands, and doesn't just appear to be scavenged. We recommend having set feeding times, and leaving the food down for a specific period of time, and if the dog doesn't eat, put it away. Dogs will not starve themselves; they are very much like humans in they have times where they won't want to eat, or will eat at certain times. This will train your dog to eat when the human says to, not when they decide they want to - which enforces the human as the provider. It can take a few days for them to understand that they need to eat when you say so, but they will learn fast, and will not be stubborn about it for long. Also, always give your dog access to water, all day (except overnight when still house training).


Why do you need to teach your dog obedience skills? The simple reason is that it teaches your dog exactly what you want, gives them confidence, and lets them understand a small piece of the human world. Commands like sit, down, stay, and come, mean absolutely nothing to dogs. We give them meaning, and it ties into pack structure, as well as safety, and the ability to get your dog to place themselves into positions at command when you need them to. Certain training methods, however, will destroy your dog's personality, and essentially turn them into robots and teach them to listen, but not think for themselves. A few techniques like this involve strong corrections at a young age, the alpha roll, and dominance theory. We train dogs to pay attention to their owners, and to think for themselves, while maintaining the ability for them to have a personality. Without that personality, they no longer desire to be a dog. These techniques might look showy and have a rapid response from the dog, but it is so stressful on the dog that you're not just showing them "who is boss", but it shows them that they are not valuable to you as a dog. Please do not hire trainers that teach you to alpha roll your dog or engage in stern handed dominance theory. Conversely, don't take anyone seriously that tries to get you to train your dog that thinks pack structure is a myth.


I went to school to become a dog trainer, I finished a year long course in 6 months and passed with high honours. If you ask me to come help you, and I recommend that you take your dog to a vet, or that you need to buy a different collar, I am doing this because I have weighed the risks whether or not doing so will benefit you and your dog. I will always explain why I am asking you to do so, and it is something I do not do lightly. I know taking a dog to a vet is expensive, so is buying a collar or a leash. I am impartial. Please remember that I make no extra money off sending you to a vet, or asking you to buy certain equipment.


An example of lack of pack structure (and I will not use any names) is I recently encountered a client who asked me to come look at his dog. This dog was jumping up, play biting, pulling on leash, and was cited as being "violent" (which it wasn't). All three of these things are totally normal for a 7 month old puppy. The client didn't want his dog to become better behaved, or to establish anything I had talked about to achieve his goal; he simply wanted his dog to become less violent. We explained what needed to happen and why on the first session, showed him how to do what was asked, and then left. When we came back for the second session, we discovered none of the recommended training and been done, though because I had set rules boundaries and limitations, the dog's play biting lessened with me, but he was still doing a lot of it to the owner and other people.


This is a prime example of why pack structure is important. A dog is not going to change in personality if you teach them that you are in control. If a trainer is asking you to do too much too fast for you, it is important to ask them to slow down. This dog is now set up to become a very vicious pound-case write off, but not because the dog had a problem - the owner chose not to train the dog. We had several other recommendations that were ignored, some critical for the safety and training of the dog. None were followed. On the final session, we had another client graciously come out and help us as we needed to see how the dog was around other dogs. Socially, this dog needed supervision and management, but over all for a dog who is not used to being social with other dogs he did extremely well - and was not violent at all. Throughout our time helping this dog, the owner would tell us what we were seeing was normal for large breed dogs (which was inaccurate), and argue with us about exercise requirements, and passive-aggressively tell us we didn't know what we were talking about. His dog could only travel a few hundred meters before he shut down, mostly because of the attitude of the owner, and this hip wobble that caused us great concern. This was not normal for a species who is bred to run. We recommended that he take his dog to a groomer to help his dog prepare for the warmer weather (which he never did). The only recommendation that was followed (sort of) was getting a harness for the dog to use while he was running with his owner on a bike instead of having his leash clipped to a choke chain. The wrong kind and too big of a size was bought, and defeated the purpose of the item.


The reason I am telling you all of this (we have graduated very problematic dogs in a day or two), is because the progress this dog made was no where near where he should have been; and that is because the owner didn't follow the advice he had paid for me to give him. He expected me to work the dog and have it become different. I can set the rules up for any owner and their dog, but the reality is it, is not my place to be your dog's pack leader, that is up to you. It will not work, because your dog will respect ME - not you. It is my job to teach you how to get there, and teach your dog what is expected of them. I expect to be told what the problems are, what your expectations for your dog are, what rules you have, how you learn best, and how you have your life with your dog structured. With all of that information from you and what I see from the dog at the evaluation, I come up with a training plan. It is never set in stone, as how your dog responds to the initial plan dictates what happens, and we may discover something else needs to be addressed. It is always my goal to attain your goals as quickly as possible, while keeping your dog's personality alive, and making training fun for everyone involved. I love my job; I love helping dogs and their owners, and seeing the bond between owner and dog growing and becoming stronger, as well as the two getting a better understanding of each other. When we all work together, amazing things happen.


John
Head Trainer

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