Wow, its the thirtieth blog today, and it's been a while since the last blog!
Today's topic is something I've noticed in almost every dog-human relationship - rewarding for an "almost". When teaching a dog something new, its is indeed valuable to mark
that they're going in the right direction, and communicate that yes,
that's what you're trying to get them to do. We're not talking about
this. You do need to mark and support your dog in new behaviours, but
they don't and shouldn't need a treat or the "this is perfect" marking
word. This leads to confusion. If you're using "Yes-treat" as your
marker for a job well done, you shouldn't be using this to mark a
correct direction. That note being aside, this isn't the instance we're
talking about. A new behaviour is complicated and difficult for your dog
to learn. There absolutely needs to be great communication, but no reward until they get it exactly right. Most people who do treat for almosts typically have a longer time training a behaviour, and it's often sloppy. While I totally understand the need to communicate that your dog is going the right direction, I personally disagree with this practice. The reason being, unless you're not doing a good job communicating to your dog, or teaching an incredibly complex behaviour, there is no need to reward the "almosts".
When a dog already knows a good sit, and can do it just fine, when you reward an almost, your dog learns that they don't have to do it exactly every time - and while that might not seem like a bad thing, dogs learn that they're allowed to be sloppy. This causes loads of behavioural issues, because if they can be sloppy on the little things and not take them seriously, this expands into other areas and causes a lot of handler frustration - especially when they're distracted, and go "oh yeah whatever, you don't mean come/sit/stay/stop. You didn't mean it before, so you don't mean it now." And because of that, many humans get mad at their dogs, when it's caused by their own lack of attention to detail. It might seem like a silly nit pick to have to ensure a sit is a flawless sit every time, but it really is necessary. When a dog is first learning a sit behaviour, and he is rewarded for an "I almost bummed the floor", they believe that first instance is a sit, and that's what it is - its harder to undo that behaviour than to reward a perfect sit.
When dogs learn that they can skimp on certain behaviours, such as waiting by a certain point when there is someone at the door and they're permitted to "break" that line without permission, they often believe they can do so with -all- behaviours, and consequently become the target of frustration. While this is caused by the handler, its ends up being perceived as defiance, or dominance, when it's something a simple as rewarding an "almost".
Most owners fall in to the "almost is fine" when they mistakenly believe that it's the same behaviour. For example, lets say its a rule that a dog is not allowed into a bedroom, and must wait at the door. You've trained your dog to sit at the door frame, and over time, your dog has started letting a paw just past the door, and of course since the dog is still behind the door, you ignore it and carry on. Except, you've just rewarded an almost. Remember, by ignoring a behaviour, you're communicating to your dog that what they're doing is acceptable, and that communicates just as much as a "yes" or a treat in a learned behaviour. So, your dog has learned "almost" is good enough at the door, and is likely to try "almost" with other things, such as sit for a treat, wait for the door, or even leash manners. With some canine personalities, this is a dangerous thing to teach, especially if your dog is a naturally assertive, intelligent type. Because most dogs learn fast, this is as much a good thing as it is a bad, but it means we must be careful what we let slide - and what else is going to slide.
Keep on training, everyone!
Tuesday, February 16, 2016
Sunday, November 8, 2015
Blog Twenty Nine - Prey Drive
Prey Drive - most people think of it as an annoying habit, one that is frustratingly pervasive throughout the life of the dog. It causes the average-behaved canine into a running, oblivious, hard-to-control mess of a dog that just has to find that critter, or attack that scent source. Is there more to this behaviour? Can it be "fixed"? We will explore this topic on today's blog!
Primal Behaviour
Before we get in to Prey Drive, I need to explain a term we will be using - Primal. We at Ideal Companions use this term to describe behaviours that are deeply ingrained into a dog's genetic make-up - like howling, breeding, the need to hunt, travel - these things are so deep into a dog's behaviour that they cannot and should not be trained out. It would be as unfair as trying to stop a baby from learning to speak, or crawl. In human terms, these behaviours are automatic, like breathing. Primal Behaviour is as critical to the dog as food, water, and sleep - and there is no way to "fix" them.
Prey Drive
This term is used to describe a loose set of similar behaviours - usually ones that involve a dog bolting away, suddenly pulling, incessant barking. ignoring commands, and sometimes getting lost or worse. It can be seemingly unpredictable, and a nuisance. What exactly is prey drive? In mostly all dogs, this behaviour will exist to some degree - some more than others. It is the desire to hunt, catch, kill, eat, retrieve, search for, or otherwise track down prey. This behaviour, being primal, tends to override typical learned behaviours, in the same way an in tact male dog will ignore everything to get to a female in heat, or how a dog will just suddenly stop and poop on a sidewalk. Prey drive has the exact same natural override - often to the dismay of owners, who suddenly end up looking bad and out of control. The good news is, it may not be "fixable", but you can most definitely work with it.
Working With Drive
While it might seem impossible to turn off this instinct, the good news is, there is a ray of hope! While dogs with this instinct cannot and should not be stopped of this natural behaviour, there is a loop hole! You can actually use prey drive to your advantage. By working with games like tug, fetch, scent games, and jogging, you can use your dog's natural instincts as a reward for training. Instead of correcting out the behaviour, use it to produce what you want. The most basic and simplest use of this drive is treat training - which has it's own ups and downs. You can also use prey drive to override other instincts and use toys to teach flawless recall skills, among other amazing-looking obedience. As well, you can use prey drive to teach your dog a job - and this is just what police canines, farm dogs, and protection dogs use! Instead of being flustered and frustrated by your dog's instincts, use it ti your advantage!
Types of Prey Drive
Hunting - The desire to pursue prey. Symptoms include running suddenly off into the bush, barking at critters in trees, barking or lunging at surprises or fast moving humans (such as those on bikes, skateboards, or joggers). This drive is usually either high energy, or dead quiet and sudden.) Tug and Fetch are great ways to burn this kind of desire.
Scenting - The desire to locate prey or the cause of a scent - most common in hound breeds. Symptoms include slowing down to sniff very close to the ground, trailing off of paths, and seemingly ignoring every sound there is. This drive is almost always low energy, with some sudden bursts of running. Scent work games are a great way to burn this kind of desire.
Killing - The desire to extinguish life. Symptoms include violent head shaking, biting of the underside of the throat (NOT the back of the neck!), a quick jerk upwards or to the side, of either real or fake animals, toys, sticks, or otherwise anything that might represent a living thing, whether real or not. It is normally associated with frustration, or too much energy. While you shouldn't permit this behaviour, its far easier to redirect and drain excess energy with hing intensity exercise, every day!
Hope this blog has helped you!
Primal Behaviour
Before we get in to Prey Drive, I need to explain a term we will be using - Primal. We at Ideal Companions use this term to describe behaviours that are deeply ingrained into a dog's genetic make-up - like howling, breeding, the need to hunt, travel - these things are so deep into a dog's behaviour that they cannot and should not be trained out. It would be as unfair as trying to stop a baby from learning to speak, or crawl. In human terms, these behaviours are automatic, like breathing. Primal Behaviour is as critical to the dog as food, water, and sleep - and there is no way to "fix" them.
Prey Drive
This term is used to describe a loose set of similar behaviours - usually ones that involve a dog bolting away, suddenly pulling, incessant barking. ignoring commands, and sometimes getting lost or worse. It can be seemingly unpredictable, and a nuisance. What exactly is prey drive? In mostly all dogs, this behaviour will exist to some degree - some more than others. It is the desire to hunt, catch, kill, eat, retrieve, search for, or otherwise track down prey. This behaviour, being primal, tends to override typical learned behaviours, in the same way an in tact male dog will ignore everything to get to a female in heat, or how a dog will just suddenly stop and poop on a sidewalk. Prey drive has the exact same natural override - often to the dismay of owners, who suddenly end up looking bad and out of control. The good news is, it may not be "fixable", but you can most definitely work with it.
Working With Drive
While it might seem impossible to turn off this instinct, the good news is, there is a ray of hope! While dogs with this instinct cannot and should not be stopped of this natural behaviour, there is a loop hole! You can actually use prey drive to your advantage. By working with games like tug, fetch, scent games, and jogging, you can use your dog's natural instincts as a reward for training. Instead of correcting out the behaviour, use it to produce what you want. The most basic and simplest use of this drive is treat training - which has it's own ups and downs. You can also use prey drive to override other instincts and use toys to teach flawless recall skills, among other amazing-looking obedience. As well, you can use prey drive to teach your dog a job - and this is just what police canines, farm dogs, and protection dogs use! Instead of being flustered and frustrated by your dog's instincts, use it ti your advantage!
Types of Prey Drive
Hunting - The desire to pursue prey. Symptoms include running suddenly off into the bush, barking at critters in trees, barking or lunging at surprises or fast moving humans (such as those on bikes, skateboards, or joggers). This drive is usually either high energy, or dead quiet and sudden.) Tug and Fetch are great ways to burn this kind of desire.
Scenting - The desire to locate prey or the cause of a scent - most common in hound breeds. Symptoms include slowing down to sniff very close to the ground, trailing off of paths, and seemingly ignoring every sound there is. This drive is almost always low energy, with some sudden bursts of running. Scent work games are a great way to burn this kind of desire.
Killing - The desire to extinguish life. Symptoms include violent head shaking, biting of the underside of the throat (NOT the back of the neck!), a quick jerk upwards or to the side, of either real or fake animals, toys, sticks, or otherwise anything that might represent a living thing, whether real or not. It is normally associated with frustration, or too much energy. While you shouldn't permit this behaviour, its far easier to redirect and drain excess energy with hing intensity exercise, every day!
Hope this blog has helped you!
Monday, October 12, 2015
Top Causes Of Canine Misbehaviour - Blog Twenty Eight
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! Ironically, today was the day I had the most time to type up a blog, but then again, having a baby will do that! Today's topic is the most common causes of canine misbehaviour - in no particular order. These are the main triggers for the bulk of our clientele.
1. Inconsistency
Topping our list here is a fairly common occurrence; owners that are not consistent every day. This is often caused by either a lack of understanding or lack of desire to correct behaviours before they begin, and/or which behaviours are problematic at which point. Even many dog trainers, seasoned ones, us included, have fallen victim to this. Most often, it's caused by a simple oversight, such as not realizing something has happened, or missing a behaviour entirely. It's also caused by thinking if a dog is corrected or redirected once, that's all that is needed.
2. Not Training From Day One
Another common issue is when people purchase, adopt, or foster a dog into their home, and believe the dog needs "buffer time", or a time to adjust to the new space with no rules or boundaries. This myth creates a vast and severe issue with all dogs; they need guidance and control in order to feel as if they have a place, a purpose, and a role. If this need isn't satisfied, they fill in those gaps themselves - and usually in a way that upsets the balance of the household. Dogs are not like adopted human children - they don't need the buffer zone, as they crave and desire leadership. Instead of allowing them this massive gap of confusing freedom, it is far healthier and beneficial to establish your expectations immediately - and preempt any possible issues, even before they enter your home.
3. Not Fulfilling Exercise and Mental Needs
The majority of owners seem to misunderstand the actual depth of exercise needs of their dogs - and tend to overlook two thirds of it. All dogs need at least an hour a day, and that's just for the laziest dogs, such as bloodhounds and bulldogs. Most dogs need much more than this. However, physical exercise is vastly secondary to mental exercise needs, and the need to explore and hunt. These primal needs override physical exercise needs, and most owners tend to overlook or not even realize their pets need this outlet. Dogs desperately need to think and learn on a daily basis, to use their minds, and discover new things. A dog that is trained to ignore this need is often frustrated, and seems to stop learning things the owner wishes to teach them, which is the main issue with 100% dominance training. As well as that, dogs need to visit new places and explore them - a need that is often left behind.
4. Ignoring Breed Need
Some, but not all people bring dogs home based on looks, without taking in to consideration what the breed is intended for. This creates frustration and trust issues, and devalues the dog. For instance, picking a Husky for it's looks, without realizing they need 12 hours of solid, intense exercise a day (and brushing four times a day!) or a Jack Russel without taking into account they are a high energy working breed that is supposed to hunt and flush out rodents and game. When a dog isn't fulfilling what it's meant to, it creates massive problems.
5. Too Many Rules
When someone goes overboard on giving a dog boundaries and overdoes the control, a dog won't know it's place or purpose - instead, it will believe it cannot do anything right, and will become frustrated, and lash out, or become mischievous. It is very important that a dog have structure, rules, and a routine, but when it's taken too far, it ends up being counter productive - and isn't fun for anyone.
6. Not Enough Rules
As opposed to too many rules, it happens to be far more common for someone to not have enough. If a dog is given too many freedoms, it ends up most often believing it is the one in control, and not the human - something not only unnatural, but confusing, and frustrating. When a dog doesn't have natural boundaries that make sense in the dog world, it ends up being like a spoiled toddler. Just like kids, dogs need structure. While all people like to give dogs freedom, things like off leash walking or freedom of toy play can and do lead to dangerous and often heart breaking ends.
7. Spoiled
By giving too much affection (to a dog, it's not just petting that is affection; it's their name being said, your voice, certain moments of eye contact, treats, meal time, and many other things equate to affection). An overdose of these things leads to an entitled dog - one that will often push the point to get what it wants, because it believes it is owed to them. Difficult for humans to undo this habit as it is, it's doubly so for the dog to adjust.
8. No Training Whatsoever
Some people bring a dog into their lives and hit all the prior marks, but fail to train their dogs at all. Commands and skills are vital to the confidence and communication skills of a dog; without them, they don't speak human language, and become dangerous to take anywhere. These dogs are often terrors on four legs, because they cannot understand human-canine social boundaries, and have absolutely no relationship with their human.
9. Stopping Training At Puppy-Hood
Many people stop teaching their dog new things once they reach adulthood, believing that sit, no, and down are sufficient skills for a dog, when this is the farthest from the truth. Dogs always need to add new skills and commands to their repertoire to learn and communicate better with humans; new skills also teach confidence, and flawless obedience. While it might be easier for the human to not have to train new skills to a dog, it's far more vital for the dog. Owning a dog isn't solely about the human after all.
10. Misreading Symptoms
By far the number one issue of all of these is the frequency at which people misread their dogs. So many people mistake dominance for aggression, fear for uncertainty, or excitement for happiness. It is so damaging to categorize and normalize behaviours that are not healthy. While any good trainer and owner should be able to utilize these behaviours to redirect and retrain a dog, they first must understand a behaviour's roots, and why they aren't healthy. Excitement can be used to teach intensity and accuracy of a behaviour, however when allowed on its own and misunderstood as happiness, the dog can very quickly become unstable.
11. BONUS: Not Enforcing Rules Fast Enough!
When a dog misbehaves, you have about one second to react before you lose effectiveness. When you first meet a dog, you have about three seconds to make an impression, establish the rules, and make a solid expectation of the relationship. While on most encounters with dogs you will likely never meet again, this skill is not important. However, this skill is absolutely vital with dogs you'll meet more than once.
Have a great day, everyone!
1. Inconsistency
Topping our list here is a fairly common occurrence; owners that are not consistent every day. This is often caused by either a lack of understanding or lack of desire to correct behaviours before they begin, and/or which behaviours are problematic at which point. Even many dog trainers, seasoned ones, us included, have fallen victim to this. Most often, it's caused by a simple oversight, such as not realizing something has happened, or missing a behaviour entirely. It's also caused by thinking if a dog is corrected or redirected once, that's all that is needed.
2. Not Training From Day One
Another common issue is when people purchase, adopt, or foster a dog into their home, and believe the dog needs "buffer time", or a time to adjust to the new space with no rules or boundaries. This myth creates a vast and severe issue with all dogs; they need guidance and control in order to feel as if they have a place, a purpose, and a role. If this need isn't satisfied, they fill in those gaps themselves - and usually in a way that upsets the balance of the household. Dogs are not like adopted human children - they don't need the buffer zone, as they crave and desire leadership. Instead of allowing them this massive gap of confusing freedom, it is far healthier and beneficial to establish your expectations immediately - and preempt any possible issues, even before they enter your home.
3. Not Fulfilling Exercise and Mental Needs
The majority of owners seem to misunderstand the actual depth of exercise needs of their dogs - and tend to overlook two thirds of it. All dogs need at least an hour a day, and that's just for the laziest dogs, such as bloodhounds and bulldogs. Most dogs need much more than this. However, physical exercise is vastly secondary to mental exercise needs, and the need to explore and hunt. These primal needs override physical exercise needs, and most owners tend to overlook or not even realize their pets need this outlet. Dogs desperately need to think and learn on a daily basis, to use their minds, and discover new things. A dog that is trained to ignore this need is often frustrated, and seems to stop learning things the owner wishes to teach them, which is the main issue with 100% dominance training. As well as that, dogs need to visit new places and explore them - a need that is often left behind.
4. Ignoring Breed Need
Some, but not all people bring dogs home based on looks, without taking in to consideration what the breed is intended for. This creates frustration and trust issues, and devalues the dog. For instance, picking a Husky for it's looks, without realizing they need 12 hours of solid, intense exercise a day (and brushing four times a day!) or a Jack Russel without taking into account they are a high energy working breed that is supposed to hunt and flush out rodents and game. When a dog isn't fulfilling what it's meant to, it creates massive problems.
5. Too Many Rules
When someone goes overboard on giving a dog boundaries and overdoes the control, a dog won't know it's place or purpose - instead, it will believe it cannot do anything right, and will become frustrated, and lash out, or become mischievous. It is very important that a dog have structure, rules, and a routine, but when it's taken too far, it ends up being counter productive - and isn't fun for anyone.
6. Not Enough Rules
As opposed to too many rules, it happens to be far more common for someone to not have enough. If a dog is given too many freedoms, it ends up most often believing it is the one in control, and not the human - something not only unnatural, but confusing, and frustrating. When a dog doesn't have natural boundaries that make sense in the dog world, it ends up being like a spoiled toddler. Just like kids, dogs need structure. While all people like to give dogs freedom, things like off leash walking or freedom of toy play can and do lead to dangerous and often heart breaking ends.
7. Spoiled
By giving too much affection (to a dog, it's not just petting that is affection; it's their name being said, your voice, certain moments of eye contact, treats, meal time, and many other things equate to affection). An overdose of these things leads to an entitled dog - one that will often push the point to get what it wants, because it believes it is owed to them. Difficult for humans to undo this habit as it is, it's doubly so for the dog to adjust.
8. No Training Whatsoever
Some people bring a dog into their lives and hit all the prior marks, but fail to train their dogs at all. Commands and skills are vital to the confidence and communication skills of a dog; without them, they don't speak human language, and become dangerous to take anywhere. These dogs are often terrors on four legs, because they cannot understand human-canine social boundaries, and have absolutely no relationship with their human.
9. Stopping Training At Puppy-Hood
Many people stop teaching their dog new things once they reach adulthood, believing that sit, no, and down are sufficient skills for a dog, when this is the farthest from the truth. Dogs always need to add new skills and commands to their repertoire to learn and communicate better with humans; new skills also teach confidence, and flawless obedience. While it might be easier for the human to not have to train new skills to a dog, it's far more vital for the dog. Owning a dog isn't solely about the human after all.
10. Misreading Symptoms
By far the number one issue of all of these is the frequency at which people misread their dogs. So many people mistake dominance for aggression, fear for uncertainty, or excitement for happiness. It is so damaging to categorize and normalize behaviours that are not healthy. While any good trainer and owner should be able to utilize these behaviours to redirect and retrain a dog, they first must understand a behaviour's roots, and why they aren't healthy. Excitement can be used to teach intensity and accuracy of a behaviour, however when allowed on its own and misunderstood as happiness, the dog can very quickly become unstable.
11. BONUS: Not Enforcing Rules Fast Enough!
When a dog misbehaves, you have about one second to react before you lose effectiveness. When you first meet a dog, you have about three seconds to make an impression, establish the rules, and make a solid expectation of the relationship. While on most encounters with dogs you will likely never meet again, this skill is not important. However, this skill is absolutely vital with dogs you'll meet more than once.
Have a great day, everyone!
Wednesday, September 16, 2015
Behaviour Ratings - Blog Twenty Seven
Today's topic will be a breakdown of, in our experience and professional opinion, is the main scale of canine behaviour. Based on multiple sources, we have compiled our knowledge in this graphic, to illustrate how dog behaviour looks, what is healthy and normal, what is getting unhealthy, and what is downright bad. This breakdown is intended as a basic guide for evaluation, not as a replacement for training.
Peace
At the core of every dog is a desire to be calm, peaceful, relaxed, and balanced. It is totally normal for a dog to be at peace most of the time; in fact, it is their heart's desire. However, that isn't to say that they cannot branch out into other moods and not be normal - in fact, it's very important. While it should be a goal that your dog should get to and stay at peace, there's nothing wrong with letting them branch out a little in any direction!
The Four Categories
When a dog branches out into one of the four main behaviour types, or on the border of two, it can either be acceptable, or unacceptable. While a dog cannot be both aggressive and hyper at the same time, and not dominant and fearful at the same time, they can absolutely be dominant-aggressive, hyper-dominant, hyper-fearful, and fearful-aggressive. Wherever your dog sits on this scale, we will go over symptoms, and what the stages look like.
Excitement
When happiness is normal or acceptable, it resembles a gently perky, perhaps a little more active, slightly wagging tail. This is a fine level of excitement; however, it can go too far.
1 - Happiness
This totally normal stage of excitement will look calm and gentle, but slightly more active than a peaceful state. Typically happy dogs are exercised, walked, and are simply enjoying life and it's scenery. It is common to mistake excitedness as happiness, but they are not synonymous.
2 - Bouncy
While bordering on too much, a bouncy dog is okay - but it is a sign they're getting a little stir crazy and need to exercise their minds and body. A bouncy dog will be just that - running about, and bouncy, like a three year old after too much sugar.
3 - Excited
When it gets out of hand is when a dog is excited. This is an unhealthy level of excitement, and is no longer going to be constructive, or beneficial to allow or encourage. It's marked by lots of excited barking, crazy running around, ignoring of commands, and a tail that is wagging quickly.
4 - Rambunctious
This stage is where it's gone way too far and should have been stopped or corrected before it got here. Hallmarked by a jumping, incessant barking, and a tail that looks like a ceiling fan, this type of excitement is very dangerous - about as dangerous as aggression or fear at this stage - and consequently will undo much of your training the longer you allow you dog to be here. This kind of excitement should be addressed and dealt with before they enter the black level.
5 - HYPER!
When all the stops are blown and your dog is out of control, we call this hyper - the black level of excitement. When this stage has occurred, your dog will likely be a nuisance; destroying things, barking non-stop, ignoring everything you have to say, tearing about your house like a tornado, and possibly be playing keep-away and other really irritating games. Your dog needs to burn off mental energy like yesterday!
Anxiety
This behaviour is typically associated with whining, avoidance, and other behaviours - but what level is safe, and what level is not?
1 - Unsure
When a dog just plain isn't used to something or isn't totally sure what's expected, or what's going to happen, they become a little unsure. This is typically seen with a raised paw, slowing down, or watching whatever it is that's causing it. While its normal, don't react too much - it can teach your dog that their concerns are valid.
2 - Avoidant
After a dog has gone past unsure, they become avoidant - a behaviour that causes them to move away, give space, or just ignore what's affecting them. While borderline acceptable, you'll need to intervene here before it gets too far. Being a little unsure is okay; it could just be their personality. However, avoidance very quickly unravels into fear.
3 - Anxiety
When a dog learns that their concerns are justified, either by handler error or a traumatic experience, they become anxious. This usually looks like some body tension, whining, pacing, or warning bites. A dog that believes it either should not be scared, or is expected to deal with this fear themselves, will often become unstable and strike unexpectedly, or shut down. Either reaction is normal, but unhealthy.
4 - Reactive/Defensive
After the dog has gone through anxiety and has been allowed to believe either that their behaviour is expected (happens through trying to console or pet a dog while they're scared), or the signs have been missed and the handler hadn't noticed until now. In either case, a dog will either be reactive (barking, growling, attacking, unstable aggression that looks worse on the outside, ect) or defensive (fleeing, yelping, panicking, ect). This behaviour should be addressed and rehabilitated immediately before it gets into fear. Other behaviours in this category that are not safe or normal are door alarm barking and charging (a sign your dog has gotten too unstable in regards to perimeter threats), and food defensiveness.
5 - FEAR!
When a dog has moved into full blown fear, one of two behaviour types occur; fight, or flight. When a dog feels they are afraid but need to defend themselves, in fight mode, they use fake-it-till-they-make-it style; looking way more threatening than whatever is threatening to them. These dogs are almost always mistaken as being "aggressive", when a dog in a fear state will hardly ever actually strike. In flight mode, a dog will commonly hide, urinate, whine or yelp incessantly, or flee from the source until it's totally gone or dealt with.
Aggression
Typically associated with violent behaviour, there is in fact a level of aggression that's not only healthy, but encouraged. Surprised? Most people are. When it gets too far is where it affects the state of mind of other people or dogs.
1 - Alert
Alertness is actually a very healthy behaviour - it's a sign your dog is paying attention to something. It is a gentle behaviour that involves looking, smelling, and watching in a passive but aware manner.
2 - Alarmed
When a dog becomes alarmed, it means they have seen something that has caused them to become more than just alert and sees something as a potential concern. They will be staring with tension, and can be softly growling. While it should be addressed and stopped soon, you can sometimes let it slide when and if it's in defense if their own property, but only for a short time, because it very quickly bleeds into defensiveness.
3 - Defensive
Once a dog has flagged something a potential threat, and they are not scared of it, they become defensive. This essentially means that they believe it is up to them to handle this threat. A defensive dog has gone from watching and aware to signalling to this threat that they're ready to act - commonly by growing, showing teeth, and lots of body tension. It is when a dog become silent in this category that there could be some bleeding into reactive.
4 - Reactive
Once defensiveness warnings have gone unheeded, a dog will fly into reactivity - a way to communicate that they find this threat unacceptable. They will bite and draw blood as a way to drive the threat off, shake their heads with violence to try and stun or kill the threat, and also offer a deep, throaty bark that serves as a final warning.
5 - TRUE AGGRESSION!
Once all the warnings have been ignored, or the dog is suddenly triggered, a dog becomes truly aggressive. It is used primarily as a means of self-defense or a hunt-and-kill behaviour that is usually in a life-or-death scenario. True aggression is hallmarked by attacking with intent to kill (biting the front or underside of the throat), biting without any warning, and silence. Aggression that has a lot of growling and barking in it is not true aggression; it is a fear reaction.
Dominance
Finally, we come to dominance - a behaviour commonly mistaken for common and normal - but there is a line that shouldn't be crossed.
1- Confidence
A confident dog can't be scared, startled, or set off. It is a great behaviour to encourage when it needs to be present, and is a very healthy starting point. It is obvious by a loose but high tail (middle or upper, not high mast), and a straight, non-tense back and straight, forward ears.
2 - Assertive
An assertive dog knows what they want, and will express it - while its not an issue at a smaller level, it can become an issue if it's encouraged or allowed too far. An assertive dog will take what they want (such as a spot on the couch without asking, food off your plate or counter, ect), remove their things where you and others cannot get to them, and assert that things and places belong to them - typically with short warning growls.
3 - Reactive
Once dominance has moved too far, a dog will become reactive. These dogs believe that they are in control and must maintain that control in order for their home and family to be safely balanced - which causes havoc in human lives and can destroy homes and friendships in the process. A reactive dog will give barks to warn you that you're taking too many liberties (a similar bark to an aggressive bark; low and throaty), warning nips that can sometimes draw blood and involve teeth contact, and herding (guiding you physically with nipping or shoving) and charging (running full tilt at you with teeth bared).
4 - Authoritative
Warning signs that a dog thinks he is King Turd of Poop Island are often mistaken as passive and normal, when in fact this dog has gone past reactivity into prevention. These dogs will ensure you don't even have a chance to challenge their authority because they will confront you and everyone else way before you can try to challenge, such as biting you before you can even touch their food or toys, or staring at you in the way that makes you slow down. They also leave their marks everywhere for everyone else to pay attention to, such as marking every tree and bush, scratching the ground to alert others, and won't walk properly on a lead. These dogs often assume leadership with strangers and express it, and might sometimes listen when they feel like it, but its often a strike out otherwise.
5 - TRUE DOMINANCE!When dominant behaviour has gone too far, it becomes true dominance. Rare and uncommon, this is usually caused by a very inexperienced owner or handler that has too much dog for their life and or personality - and is unfortunately difficult to reverse. True dominance is very unpredictable and yet predictable in its symptoms; these dogs will charge and growl with the intent to follow through and attack to hurt or kill, can strike without any warning, and will have a very high and tense tail and muscles that signal they are ready to assert themselves any time, any place. Great care and caution must be taken with dogs at this level, and owners are encouraged to call professionals or surrender their dogs to a rehabilitation expert.
In close, we hope this little graph and it's long explanation will help you analyze your dog, and their level of behaviour! Let's all keep our ideal companions in the green!
Thursday, June 11, 2015
The Power Of Crate Training - Blog Twenty Six
Well, we are getting in to the scorching hot summer days right now, and we've already glanced over summer exercise strategies and warnings, so seeing as this is a popular time to adopt new dogs or puppies, today's topic will be all about crate training! Whether you choose to utilize a wire crate, plastic kennel, or a cloth travel kennel, the concept all remains the same. We will go over why it is important, and more importantly, how to accomplish crate training - even with a dog that is afraid of the kennel!
When a dog is very young, small, tight spaces are where the mother chooses to birth and raise her litter until they are big enough to venture out of the little box, closet, or space, where they learn much about the world, and soon go off to their homes. Every dog is born with the natural instinct to enjoy and relax in small, tight spaces; this is unfortunately generally either not employed, not trained properly, or unfortunately, employed incorrectly, resulting in a dog that either doesn't know anything about crates or kennels, or is afraid of them. While every person's lifestyle is different, it is critically important, especially in the learning stages, that a dog be properly crate or kennel trained. Why?
There are many reasons why crate training a puppy is critical. It provides a space to allow the dog to sleep and relax, a place to shelter the dog when there is too much going on, a place to keep the dog out from underfoot when you are doing other things, a place to associate peace and quiet, a place to feed without interruption, a place to retire a pup to when training is all done, a place to provide safe travel within a vehicle (this could in fact save their life in a car accident) - the list goes on. Crates allow access control first and foremost to your pup - guests cannot just come in and fawn all over your puppy, which encourages hyperness and improper greeting. It prevents your dog from getting too much freedom too quickly, which often causes dominance and assumed authority issues as well as training issues in most puppies. It teaches a dog at a small level to first not mess in the crate, and then not to mess in the home, which is far more difficult to accomplish without a crate. It prevents the possibility of your pup or adult dog from getting into things, breaking, destroying, or otherwise wreaking havoc on your home while you are gone. It gives a sense of a space belonging to only your dog, which is very important for your dog to have. It also replaces a dog bed one-to-one, and can be used full time, day in and day out, as a rest and reprieve spot for your dog.
What happens if you or a previous owner didn't train crates at all, use it as a spot for punishment, or not properly? Generally this happens when people view crates or kennels as a cage or a cruel box, or don't take the time to associate good things with the space, and simply push or shove a dog inside with little attention to their state of mind or fears. Sometimes, people honestly do not know differently - however, all is not lost. Depending on how afraid or resistant your dog is to the space, you may have to start from square one, so we will start this description from there.
Step One - New Association
Depending on your dog's reaction to a crate, it will tell you whether it is a fear, avoidance, or a simple unsureness about the item. If your dog will go in the same room as the crate but no closer, you're dealing with avoidance. However, if your dog won't even go in the room, or runs away, it is fear. A dog that will go nearby and smell it, but simply refuses to go inside is unsure of it. Wherever your dog is most comfortable near this item, this is your starting point. Your goal will be to move a foot or so closer, and reward your dog's calmness near the item. Whether for your dog that means sticking his head in the room or partway into the crate depends on the dog's reaction, and how calm they are. Never reward a nervous dog; only a dog that is calm, and relaxed. Your goal is to give treats at this "safe" distance, and then ask just a little more for the next treat. You are going to need to stop once your dog's stress level causes them to become tense; you're not going to encourage change after this. Give it a break for a few hours, then try again later.
Step Two - Inside!
Once you can accomplish your dog comfortably placing their body nearby the crate or their head slightly inside, your next goal is to get them to step inside - whether that means all the way, or just their front paws. If you begin to see some fear or avoidance at this stage, whether there are treats involved or not, you're going to need to deconstruct the crate and remove both the door and the top - or in the case of a wire kennel or cloth kennel, take it slowly and repeat step one until that fear goes away. Now, with your either whole or deconstructed kennel, you're going to put a small pile of high value rewards (such as raw meats, organ pieces, or other raw items that are fast to gobble up, not hard treats or bones) OR their favorite toy, and it's going in the absolute middle. This will force your dog to put their front paw, paws, or stretch to get the treats. Once they can do this without hesitation, you're ready for either step THREE, or to repeat this process with the LID ON and NO DOOR, then finally with the door ON, but always open. NOW you're ready for step three!
Step Three - All the way!
In this step, you will be breaking all the common rules of dog training. Once your dog can place their front body in the doorway with the lid and door on, you're going to up the ante. This is where you're going to go through a -lot- of meat. For this step, make sure your dog is hungry! Consider stalling a mealtime by half an hour for this one. At the very back of the crate, in a spot that requires your dog to go all the way inside to get the meat (side note - if your dog can stretch to the back with only two paws inside, your crate is too small!). This pile of meat needs to be huge - call it a jackpot. It should be enough that it takes two or three stops for your dog to eat. Normally, you never want to give a meal-size of any treats, because it can over-charge the excitement level, but in this case you want a positive association and we will worry about the excitement later on. Now, once your dog can go all the way inside to get the treats, you yourself are also going to get psycho excited - the kind we always tell you NOT to get! You're going to clap, hoot, hollar, hooray, and get your dog as excited as you possibly can - even if they bounce around inside and bark! The more you get your dog excited while INSIDE this item, the better - you're forming happiness, joy, and excitement bonds with this item. Just make sure to stop as soon as they come out of it. You want the excitement while they stay IN the crate, not as they're coming out. Once your dog can enter the crate and get excited, you're ready for step four! Bonus points if your dog goes inside and tries to get your attention for treats or excitement - REWARD THIS! Side note - if your dog can go inside and sit there WITHOUT the excitement, reward this as well. You can re-attempt this step with less excitement to prime step four as well!
Step Four - Door Closed, Calm Down!
Now that we've created a positive bond with the crate and instilled joy and excitement, we need to tone down that excitement while still keeping a positive bond. If your dog reacts badly to the closing door, you're going to want to prime the door the same way we did with the whole crate in step one - by feeding a treat while they are inside the crate with the door as closed as you can get it. If they refuse the treat, try it again with the door open another inch and then prime again. You'll need to stick your fingers through the bars so they stick their head beside or on the door. Once you can shut the door completely, your dog is likely going to be all excited and happy. This is not a good state to leave your dog alone in - they are waiting for something great to happen, and when it doesn't, they will either whine, bark, howl, or start trying to break out. For now, you're going to ask them to stay inside with you nearby (in vision range, right out the front). Five minutes or so is fine for this step. You'll be waiting for your dog to calm down a little; not so excited, not so bouncy - then you'll let them out, then they go right back in (or take a pee break for the dog then come back). Your goal is to make the dog wait to get out until they are calmer than they went in. Some dogs this will happen quickly; others will need a few days or a week to understand this part. Some dogs will try and throw a tantrum to get out; it is absolutely critical you don't let them out or reward this behaviour. Unless it's an emergency, don't let your dog out in this state of mind. Once you can accomplish a calm, patient state of mind for more than a couple minutes, you're ready to start the fifth step!
Step Five - Calm All The Time and Off We Go!
Now, you're changing things up a bit. The treats are less of the focus, but you can reward with a "good boy/girl" and a gentle pet. This time, you're working on getting them INSIDE the crate while calm. Don't close them in just yet, but feel free to use the door to block them from exiting the crate before totally relaxed. Your goal is to be able to lead your dog to the crate while calm, wait for calmness again, close the door, wait for them to lay down and relax, and then you're going for the big test - you're going out of visible range. Some dogs will be fine with this and just wait; some will get anxious however, and whine, scratch, or howl. You're waiting here for your dog to relax again, and then you will reappear with low level excitement and a "good boy/girl", open door, and some pets. This could take several weeks, so be patient! Once you can successfully carry on for about half an hour, we're ready for the final step!
Step Six - Fully Crate Trained!
If you can successfully carry on your day with a calm dog in a closed kennel, you're ready to up the ante again. You may choose to employ the use of a wireless webcam or baby video monitor in this stage, if you're not 100% accustomed to sensing how your dog is feeling from a distance and out of range. You are going to leave the house, and spy on them! Put your webcam or monitor in a place where you can see the whole crate. You are going to exit the house and be as quiet as possible until your dog totally relaxes. Then you're going to magically appear when they're in that perfect state, and verbally praise them for good waiting. Once you can spend an hour outside your home (as long as they don't realize you're just outside), you can successfully leave your dog in the crate without worry! Bonus points if your dog defaults to the crate to lay down and relax!
Important Mentions
Training would not be training without some rules that the human has to follow, too. In order for a happy, successful crate training, these iron-clad rules MUST be followed - not just for the safety of your dog, but humans, the crate, and everyone involved in your dog's life!
1) Never use a crate to punish or seal away a misbehaving dog. They do not learn that way, and all you're going to do is show the dog that the crate is a place of frustration and anger; they are not going to ever understand that their behaviour placed them there, and more importantly, they will never be corrected this way. You are only making the crate a spot to hate. Always deal with misbehavior properly - and ensure you haven't missed anything. Nine times out of ten, human error has caused the misbehavior.
2) Never place a dog in a crate longer than one hour per month of age. This is to ensure accidents do not happen, that a pup does not end up feeling trapped or mistreated. While the den instinct is natural and strong, it is not normal for a dog to be alone for longer than an hour per month of age.
3) Never leave a dog of any age in a crate longer than 4-6 hours. EVER! A dog cannot hold their bladders or bowels longer, they cannot remain stationary longer, and they cannot reap benefit any longer. If you crate while your dog is at work, come by on your break or have someone pop over at least once every 4 hours to let your dog out of the crate to relieve themselves and stretch legs for a few minutes. Beyond this is cruel to the dog. This also and ESPECIALLY applies overnight. No dog should be expected to hold their bladders or bowels through the night!
4) If you left your dog too long and they messed in the crate, DO NOT get mad and DO NOT punish them! This will cause the same issue as number one. All you're going to do is cause frustration. Instead, clean thoroughly, ensure you use something to neutralize the scent on all surfaces, and add their food and water dish (which should already be in the crate). Dogs won't mess near their food unless there is an accident, so this will help prevent accidents in the future. Be sure you're not leaving your dog too long between letting them outside to relieve themselves.
5) Do not place a dog in any kennel or crate in any weather past 20 degrees! Its already two to three times hotter to them; the crate/kennel not only makes it hotter, it also prevents them from escaping the temperature. Whether its indoors, in a moving vehicle, or outside, it is dangerous to crate or kennel a dog in these temperatures. For these instances, you're going to need an ex-pen, or some form of seat-belt or safe restraining system while in a vehicle, and always allow the dog access to water AND shade, no matter what. You could potentially kill your dog in that kind of heat in as short as 10 minutes.
6) Do not allow other dogs into the crate that belongs to your dog. This is about as offensive to a dog as if someone walked into your home and slept in your bed without warning or asking. To a dog, their crate needs to be THEIR space and should never be shared with another dog. Not only is it offensive to your dog, and unsafe, but it is not legal to do so - you can get in trouble for putting two dogs in one crate at the same time!
7) Always have the proper sized kennel for your dog! Size a kennel or crate for their estimated adult height and weight - and add 10 pounds and an inch to be safe! Your dog should be able to sit, stand, lay down, turn around, and be able to lay down on their side with paws outstretched in ALL FOUR DIRECTIONS to satisfy CRD/By-law/SPCA regulations. If your dog cannot do one or more of these, your crate is TOO SMALL. While crates are insanely expensive and costly, its a one-time cost with proper training and can be used for multiple uses with other dogs (once the current one has passed away or moved on of course!). You can also find them used, or even make your own crate if you're handy with wood and soft, round fencing material (never ever use chicken wire for a dog). If the crate or kennel is too expensive to afford, at least utilize an ex-pen or a small bedroom or closet until you can do so.
8) Never leave a dog unattended in a crate in places such as outdoors or in a vehicle! This one is pretty obvious, but it ties in to number five, as well as presents some major safety issues - especially if you have a young puppy in your yard in an ex-pen - birds of prey or wild animals like bobcats or raccoons can and will pick off your puppy if it's unattended!
9) If you are not walking, training, relieving, or playing with your puppy, they should be crated, kenneled, or ex-penned! Until they are about a year old, all puppies should retire to a crate until basic training is complete. This is not to contain or control your dog, but to increase the den instinct, keep them safe, allow you a break, and to not give too much freedom too fast. This allows you 100% full control and ability to adapt your dog's behaviour into the perfect pooch for you.
Hopefully we have helped your crate training plight, or at least enlightened you a little! Until next time, keep calm, and always strive for your Ideal Companion!
When a dog is very young, small, tight spaces are where the mother chooses to birth and raise her litter until they are big enough to venture out of the little box, closet, or space, where they learn much about the world, and soon go off to their homes. Every dog is born with the natural instinct to enjoy and relax in small, tight spaces; this is unfortunately generally either not employed, not trained properly, or unfortunately, employed incorrectly, resulting in a dog that either doesn't know anything about crates or kennels, or is afraid of them. While every person's lifestyle is different, it is critically important, especially in the learning stages, that a dog be properly crate or kennel trained. Why?
There are many reasons why crate training a puppy is critical. It provides a space to allow the dog to sleep and relax, a place to shelter the dog when there is too much going on, a place to keep the dog out from underfoot when you are doing other things, a place to associate peace and quiet, a place to feed without interruption, a place to retire a pup to when training is all done, a place to provide safe travel within a vehicle (this could in fact save their life in a car accident) - the list goes on. Crates allow access control first and foremost to your pup - guests cannot just come in and fawn all over your puppy, which encourages hyperness and improper greeting. It prevents your dog from getting too much freedom too quickly, which often causes dominance and assumed authority issues as well as training issues in most puppies. It teaches a dog at a small level to first not mess in the crate, and then not to mess in the home, which is far more difficult to accomplish without a crate. It prevents the possibility of your pup or adult dog from getting into things, breaking, destroying, or otherwise wreaking havoc on your home while you are gone. It gives a sense of a space belonging to only your dog, which is very important for your dog to have. It also replaces a dog bed one-to-one, and can be used full time, day in and day out, as a rest and reprieve spot for your dog.
What happens if you or a previous owner didn't train crates at all, use it as a spot for punishment, or not properly? Generally this happens when people view crates or kennels as a cage or a cruel box, or don't take the time to associate good things with the space, and simply push or shove a dog inside with little attention to their state of mind or fears. Sometimes, people honestly do not know differently - however, all is not lost. Depending on how afraid or resistant your dog is to the space, you may have to start from square one, so we will start this description from there.
Step One - New Association
Depending on your dog's reaction to a crate, it will tell you whether it is a fear, avoidance, or a simple unsureness about the item. If your dog will go in the same room as the crate but no closer, you're dealing with avoidance. However, if your dog won't even go in the room, or runs away, it is fear. A dog that will go nearby and smell it, but simply refuses to go inside is unsure of it. Wherever your dog is most comfortable near this item, this is your starting point. Your goal will be to move a foot or so closer, and reward your dog's calmness near the item. Whether for your dog that means sticking his head in the room or partway into the crate depends on the dog's reaction, and how calm they are. Never reward a nervous dog; only a dog that is calm, and relaxed. Your goal is to give treats at this "safe" distance, and then ask just a little more for the next treat. You are going to need to stop once your dog's stress level causes them to become tense; you're not going to encourage change after this. Give it a break for a few hours, then try again later.
Step Two - Inside!
Once you can accomplish your dog comfortably placing their body nearby the crate or their head slightly inside, your next goal is to get them to step inside - whether that means all the way, or just their front paws. If you begin to see some fear or avoidance at this stage, whether there are treats involved or not, you're going to need to deconstruct the crate and remove both the door and the top - or in the case of a wire kennel or cloth kennel, take it slowly and repeat step one until that fear goes away. Now, with your either whole or deconstructed kennel, you're going to put a small pile of high value rewards (such as raw meats, organ pieces, or other raw items that are fast to gobble up, not hard treats or bones) OR their favorite toy, and it's going in the absolute middle. This will force your dog to put their front paw, paws, or stretch to get the treats. Once they can do this without hesitation, you're ready for either step THREE, or to repeat this process with the LID ON and NO DOOR, then finally with the door ON, but always open. NOW you're ready for step three!
Step Three - All the way!
In this step, you will be breaking all the common rules of dog training. Once your dog can place their front body in the doorway with the lid and door on, you're going to up the ante. This is where you're going to go through a -lot- of meat. For this step, make sure your dog is hungry! Consider stalling a mealtime by half an hour for this one. At the very back of the crate, in a spot that requires your dog to go all the way inside to get the meat (side note - if your dog can stretch to the back with only two paws inside, your crate is too small!). This pile of meat needs to be huge - call it a jackpot. It should be enough that it takes two or three stops for your dog to eat. Normally, you never want to give a meal-size of any treats, because it can over-charge the excitement level, but in this case you want a positive association and we will worry about the excitement later on. Now, once your dog can go all the way inside to get the treats, you yourself are also going to get psycho excited - the kind we always tell you NOT to get! You're going to clap, hoot, hollar, hooray, and get your dog as excited as you possibly can - even if they bounce around inside and bark! The more you get your dog excited while INSIDE this item, the better - you're forming happiness, joy, and excitement bonds with this item. Just make sure to stop as soon as they come out of it. You want the excitement while they stay IN the crate, not as they're coming out. Once your dog can enter the crate and get excited, you're ready for step four! Bonus points if your dog goes inside and tries to get your attention for treats or excitement - REWARD THIS! Side note - if your dog can go inside and sit there WITHOUT the excitement, reward this as well. You can re-attempt this step with less excitement to prime step four as well!
Step Four - Door Closed, Calm Down!
Now that we've created a positive bond with the crate and instilled joy and excitement, we need to tone down that excitement while still keeping a positive bond. If your dog reacts badly to the closing door, you're going to want to prime the door the same way we did with the whole crate in step one - by feeding a treat while they are inside the crate with the door as closed as you can get it. If they refuse the treat, try it again with the door open another inch and then prime again. You'll need to stick your fingers through the bars so they stick their head beside or on the door. Once you can shut the door completely, your dog is likely going to be all excited and happy. This is not a good state to leave your dog alone in - they are waiting for something great to happen, and when it doesn't, they will either whine, bark, howl, or start trying to break out. For now, you're going to ask them to stay inside with you nearby (in vision range, right out the front). Five minutes or so is fine for this step. You'll be waiting for your dog to calm down a little; not so excited, not so bouncy - then you'll let them out, then they go right back in (or take a pee break for the dog then come back). Your goal is to make the dog wait to get out until they are calmer than they went in. Some dogs this will happen quickly; others will need a few days or a week to understand this part. Some dogs will try and throw a tantrum to get out; it is absolutely critical you don't let them out or reward this behaviour. Unless it's an emergency, don't let your dog out in this state of mind. Once you can accomplish a calm, patient state of mind for more than a couple minutes, you're ready to start the fifth step!
Step Five - Calm All The Time and Off We Go!
Now, you're changing things up a bit. The treats are less of the focus, but you can reward with a "good boy/girl" and a gentle pet. This time, you're working on getting them INSIDE the crate while calm. Don't close them in just yet, but feel free to use the door to block them from exiting the crate before totally relaxed. Your goal is to be able to lead your dog to the crate while calm, wait for calmness again, close the door, wait for them to lay down and relax, and then you're going for the big test - you're going out of visible range. Some dogs will be fine with this and just wait; some will get anxious however, and whine, scratch, or howl. You're waiting here for your dog to relax again, and then you will reappear with low level excitement and a "good boy/girl", open door, and some pets. This could take several weeks, so be patient! Once you can successfully carry on for about half an hour, we're ready for the final step!
Step Six - Fully Crate Trained!
If you can successfully carry on your day with a calm dog in a closed kennel, you're ready to up the ante again. You may choose to employ the use of a wireless webcam or baby video monitor in this stage, if you're not 100% accustomed to sensing how your dog is feeling from a distance and out of range. You are going to leave the house, and spy on them! Put your webcam or monitor in a place where you can see the whole crate. You are going to exit the house and be as quiet as possible until your dog totally relaxes. Then you're going to magically appear when they're in that perfect state, and verbally praise them for good waiting. Once you can spend an hour outside your home (as long as they don't realize you're just outside), you can successfully leave your dog in the crate without worry! Bonus points if your dog defaults to the crate to lay down and relax!
Important Mentions
Training would not be training without some rules that the human has to follow, too. In order for a happy, successful crate training, these iron-clad rules MUST be followed - not just for the safety of your dog, but humans, the crate, and everyone involved in your dog's life!
1) Never use a crate to punish or seal away a misbehaving dog. They do not learn that way, and all you're going to do is show the dog that the crate is a place of frustration and anger; they are not going to ever understand that their behaviour placed them there, and more importantly, they will never be corrected this way. You are only making the crate a spot to hate. Always deal with misbehavior properly - and ensure you haven't missed anything. Nine times out of ten, human error has caused the misbehavior.
2) Never place a dog in a crate longer than one hour per month of age. This is to ensure accidents do not happen, that a pup does not end up feeling trapped or mistreated. While the den instinct is natural and strong, it is not normal for a dog to be alone for longer than an hour per month of age.
3) Never leave a dog of any age in a crate longer than 4-6 hours. EVER! A dog cannot hold their bladders or bowels longer, they cannot remain stationary longer, and they cannot reap benefit any longer. If you crate while your dog is at work, come by on your break or have someone pop over at least once every 4 hours to let your dog out of the crate to relieve themselves and stretch legs for a few minutes. Beyond this is cruel to the dog. This also and ESPECIALLY applies overnight. No dog should be expected to hold their bladders or bowels through the night!
4) If you left your dog too long and they messed in the crate, DO NOT get mad and DO NOT punish them! This will cause the same issue as number one. All you're going to do is cause frustration. Instead, clean thoroughly, ensure you use something to neutralize the scent on all surfaces, and add their food and water dish (which should already be in the crate). Dogs won't mess near their food unless there is an accident, so this will help prevent accidents in the future. Be sure you're not leaving your dog too long between letting them outside to relieve themselves.
5) Do not place a dog in any kennel or crate in any weather past 20 degrees! Its already two to three times hotter to them; the crate/kennel not only makes it hotter, it also prevents them from escaping the temperature. Whether its indoors, in a moving vehicle, or outside, it is dangerous to crate or kennel a dog in these temperatures. For these instances, you're going to need an ex-pen, or some form of seat-belt or safe restraining system while in a vehicle, and always allow the dog access to water AND shade, no matter what. You could potentially kill your dog in that kind of heat in as short as 10 minutes.
6) Do not allow other dogs into the crate that belongs to your dog. This is about as offensive to a dog as if someone walked into your home and slept in your bed without warning or asking. To a dog, their crate needs to be THEIR space and should never be shared with another dog. Not only is it offensive to your dog, and unsafe, but it is not legal to do so - you can get in trouble for putting two dogs in one crate at the same time!
7) Always have the proper sized kennel for your dog! Size a kennel or crate for their estimated adult height and weight - and add 10 pounds and an inch to be safe! Your dog should be able to sit, stand, lay down, turn around, and be able to lay down on their side with paws outstretched in ALL FOUR DIRECTIONS to satisfy CRD/By-law/SPCA regulations. If your dog cannot do one or more of these, your crate is TOO SMALL. While crates are insanely expensive and costly, its a one-time cost with proper training and can be used for multiple uses with other dogs (once the current one has passed away or moved on of course!). You can also find them used, or even make your own crate if you're handy with wood and soft, round fencing material (never ever use chicken wire for a dog). If the crate or kennel is too expensive to afford, at least utilize an ex-pen or a small bedroom or closet until you can do so.
8) Never leave a dog unattended in a crate in places such as outdoors or in a vehicle! This one is pretty obvious, but it ties in to number five, as well as presents some major safety issues - especially if you have a young puppy in your yard in an ex-pen - birds of prey or wild animals like bobcats or raccoons can and will pick off your puppy if it's unattended!
9) If you are not walking, training, relieving, or playing with your puppy, they should be crated, kenneled, or ex-penned! Until they are about a year old, all puppies should retire to a crate until basic training is complete. This is not to contain or control your dog, but to increase the den instinct, keep them safe, allow you a break, and to not give too much freedom too fast. This allows you 100% full control and ability to adapt your dog's behaviour into the perfect pooch for you.
Hopefully we have helped your crate training plight, or at least enlightened you a little! Until next time, keep calm, and always strive for your Ideal Companion!
Monday, May 25, 2015
Sizzlin' Summer Strategies for Sufficient Canine Satisfaction! Blog Twenty Five
Too much s? Sorry, it kinda wrote itself there, ;).
Today's topic is all about the summer, and how to exercise your dog in the hot summer days without risking heat stroke - or worse. It is incredibly common for dogs to become too hot in the heat, and suffer for days because of it. From their world, they're not only exercising in the heat, which is already not too fun, but they are doing it with a fur coat on - and the inability to sweat it off, except from their paws, and panting, which stops being effective very quickly. Seeing as this summer is being called California North for Vancouver Island this year, we are going to address easy and innovative ways to exercise your dog - without risking their health.
1) Water!
There are tons of places around Vancouver Island that has water that is readily accessible - for dogs that enjoy it, that is. Swimming takes a lot of energy, muscle, and focus for a dog to do - and the cold water will help regulate their temperatures, especially in larger, bulkier furred dogs, or breeds sensitive to the heat - like bulldogs, or pit mixes. Most dogs can be trained to swim, and end up enjoying it. Make sure, however, to check algae and bacteria levels in lakes before letting your dog swim - and there are many saltwater access points that are just as great for dogs with little risk. We have also found that Lookout Lake is very good for dogs when fishing isn't too hot - it also has limited algae issues. If you're not looking to burn any gas, you can always turn your sprinkler on and play fetch through it! Many dogs love the sprinkler - once they realize it's not going to hurt them. You can also employ a kiddie pool for this - just toss their toy into it!
2) Early Morning!
I know, it sucks to get up at the crack of dawn, but it's not only cooler, it is the best time for your dog - its the breakfast of their exercise, so to speak. When you exercise a dog first thing in the morning, they can go through the whole day feeling exercised and satisfied - rather than wait for the evening to come to get it, and then have to sleep and recharge, and wait all day again. Dogs usually start their days between 6 and 8 am on average, whether or not their humans are awake. They prefer early rise and early sleep, with the moon - but they don't argue with human schedules, and once they adapt to it, they end up preferring following the sun instead. Humans tend to like sleeping late and waking late, with no real adaptation to the sun or moon - but for a dog, one or the other is normal. So, first thing in the morning is the utmost best for your dog, if you're a night-sleeper. If you happen to be on night shift, switch the clock around if your dog sleeps for you - or just walk them after work, before you sleep. Of course, the added benefit to a morning walk is that it is also excellent for your own health - humans burn the most fat and build the most muscle first thing in the morning! So, put on those sneakers, grab your tea, and take that pup out! Besides, what better way to spend the summer than to see the sun rising?
3) Indoor Activities
There are plenty of ways to burn your pup out indoors when the heat is especially high - and we are due for quite a few of those this summer. While indoor activities are not going to satisfy traveling needs, it is however going to physically and mentally drain them, which is the next best thing. While this should only be used on days when leaving the home is out of the question, you can include this every day on top of regular walking - and build your relationship while doing it! Great indoor activities that engage your dog properly are extensive - teaching it a new skill, trick, or behaviour; letting your dog jump over a solid coffee table (to exercise more muscle); indoor agility training (dining room chair weaving, for example?); indoor fetch (be aware of breakables because in the moment, your dog will not be); retraining a fear (such as fear of bathtubs); refining and working on speed of command response for basic commands; nose work such as searching for a treat or finding a treat in a series of cups or boxes; leash work and pressure response; the list goes on. Be creative - anything that gets your dog moving and thinking will accomplish this goal!
Words Of Caution
If you still need to take your dog out in the heat, make sure it is quick as possible, and as low impact as you possibly can make it. If you have absolutely no other choice, and must be out in the heat with your dog being active, watch for some warning signs that your dog may be getting too much heat:
-Glazed eyes, unresponsive or slow reacting eye movement and pupils. (This is a sign their temperature is too high.)
-Slow response or no response to name or commands (This is a sign their brain is too hot.)
-Slowing down, lagging behind, with heavy panting. (This is a sign they are too hot, not watered enough, or both.)
-A very hot spot just behind the base of the ear. (This is a sign that your dog is overheating and heading in to danger).
-Drooping, flat, too-relaxed tail and ears. (This is a sign your dog is too hot).
-Red, blackened, sore, cracked, or bleeding paw pads. (This is a sign your dog's feet have burned - they will no longer be able to sweat through their feet and cool off).
-Constant, heavy panting, as if they have been running all morning. (This is a sign your dog is no longer able to cool themselves off properly - they need to get out of the heat immediately).
-Laying down in the shade often, or laying prone at random. (This is a sign your dog's heat level has gone critical).
-Shaking, shivering, trembling, or other odd behaviours that are not normal in the heat such as turning, rotating, twirling, or backing up. (This is a sign their brain is over-hot and is affecting their ability to think and control their body - they will need emergency veterinarian service).
-Excessive drooling and lethargy. (This is a sign the dog has lost some motor control due to being overheated).
-Inability to bark, whine, or growl at stimulation. (This can be from overheating, or the dog's brain has begun to cook - the dog will need emergency veterinarian service).
-Inability to drink water, despite being offered and interested. (This is also a sign there has been some brain damage due to heat).
We hope we have helped! Good luck in all that summer heat, everyone!
Today's topic is all about the summer, and how to exercise your dog in the hot summer days without risking heat stroke - or worse. It is incredibly common for dogs to become too hot in the heat, and suffer for days because of it. From their world, they're not only exercising in the heat, which is already not too fun, but they are doing it with a fur coat on - and the inability to sweat it off, except from their paws, and panting, which stops being effective very quickly. Seeing as this summer is being called California North for Vancouver Island this year, we are going to address easy and innovative ways to exercise your dog - without risking their health.
1) Water!
There are tons of places around Vancouver Island that has water that is readily accessible - for dogs that enjoy it, that is. Swimming takes a lot of energy, muscle, and focus for a dog to do - and the cold water will help regulate their temperatures, especially in larger, bulkier furred dogs, or breeds sensitive to the heat - like bulldogs, or pit mixes. Most dogs can be trained to swim, and end up enjoying it. Make sure, however, to check algae and bacteria levels in lakes before letting your dog swim - and there are many saltwater access points that are just as great for dogs with little risk. We have also found that Lookout Lake is very good for dogs when fishing isn't too hot - it also has limited algae issues. If you're not looking to burn any gas, you can always turn your sprinkler on and play fetch through it! Many dogs love the sprinkler - once they realize it's not going to hurt them. You can also employ a kiddie pool for this - just toss their toy into it!
2) Early Morning!
I know, it sucks to get up at the crack of dawn, but it's not only cooler, it is the best time for your dog - its the breakfast of their exercise, so to speak. When you exercise a dog first thing in the morning, they can go through the whole day feeling exercised and satisfied - rather than wait for the evening to come to get it, and then have to sleep and recharge, and wait all day again. Dogs usually start their days between 6 and 8 am on average, whether or not their humans are awake. They prefer early rise and early sleep, with the moon - but they don't argue with human schedules, and once they adapt to it, they end up preferring following the sun instead. Humans tend to like sleeping late and waking late, with no real adaptation to the sun or moon - but for a dog, one or the other is normal. So, first thing in the morning is the utmost best for your dog, if you're a night-sleeper. If you happen to be on night shift, switch the clock around if your dog sleeps for you - or just walk them after work, before you sleep. Of course, the added benefit to a morning walk is that it is also excellent for your own health - humans burn the most fat and build the most muscle first thing in the morning! So, put on those sneakers, grab your tea, and take that pup out! Besides, what better way to spend the summer than to see the sun rising?
3) Indoor Activities
There are plenty of ways to burn your pup out indoors when the heat is especially high - and we are due for quite a few of those this summer. While indoor activities are not going to satisfy traveling needs, it is however going to physically and mentally drain them, which is the next best thing. While this should only be used on days when leaving the home is out of the question, you can include this every day on top of regular walking - and build your relationship while doing it! Great indoor activities that engage your dog properly are extensive - teaching it a new skill, trick, or behaviour; letting your dog jump over a solid coffee table (to exercise more muscle); indoor agility training (dining room chair weaving, for example?); indoor fetch (be aware of breakables because in the moment, your dog will not be); retraining a fear (such as fear of bathtubs); refining and working on speed of command response for basic commands; nose work such as searching for a treat or finding a treat in a series of cups or boxes; leash work and pressure response; the list goes on. Be creative - anything that gets your dog moving and thinking will accomplish this goal!
Words Of Caution
If you still need to take your dog out in the heat, make sure it is quick as possible, and as low impact as you possibly can make it. If you have absolutely no other choice, and must be out in the heat with your dog being active, watch for some warning signs that your dog may be getting too much heat:
-Glazed eyes, unresponsive or slow reacting eye movement and pupils. (This is a sign their temperature is too high.)
-Slow response or no response to name or commands (This is a sign their brain is too hot.)
-Slowing down, lagging behind, with heavy panting. (This is a sign they are too hot, not watered enough, or both.)
-A very hot spot just behind the base of the ear. (This is a sign that your dog is overheating and heading in to danger).
-Drooping, flat, too-relaxed tail and ears. (This is a sign your dog is too hot).
-Red, blackened, sore, cracked, or bleeding paw pads. (This is a sign your dog's feet have burned - they will no longer be able to sweat through their feet and cool off).
-Constant, heavy panting, as if they have been running all morning. (This is a sign your dog is no longer able to cool themselves off properly - they need to get out of the heat immediately).
-Laying down in the shade often, or laying prone at random. (This is a sign your dog's heat level has gone critical).
-Shaking, shivering, trembling, or other odd behaviours that are not normal in the heat such as turning, rotating, twirling, or backing up. (This is a sign their brain is over-hot and is affecting their ability to think and control their body - they will need emergency veterinarian service).
-Excessive drooling and lethargy. (This is a sign the dog has lost some motor control due to being overheated).
-Inability to bark, whine, or growl at stimulation. (This can be from overheating, or the dog's brain has begun to cook - the dog will need emergency veterinarian service).
-Inability to drink water, despite being offered and interested. (This is also a sign there has been some brain damage due to heat).
We hope we have helped! Good luck in all that summer heat, everyone!
Wednesday, May 13, 2015
Nuisance Behaviours; What They Are, And How To Fix Them - Blog Twenty Four
Today's blog, we are dealing with nuisance behaviours - those things our dogs do that drive us absolutely bonkers and love to hate - what they are, and how to fix them. Since there are so many, we will be addressing those that we receive the most complaints for.
1) Unwanted Licking
Whether it be you that is subjected to the constant tongue contact, your guests, kids, furniture, or other objects, it can get really old, really fast - especially if they don't seem to understand that it isn't wanted or acceptable. Usual licking crosses the border into nuisance licking after a few seconds. It is important to understand that licking is a normal, social behaviour that should be allowed - but only briefly, and in most normal situations.
Licking, when not linked to a neurological or psychological disorder, is caused by one of three things. Submissiveness, Dominance, and Boredom. Which of these three your dog is displaying is important to know, because it indicates greater issues - but for the purpose of this blog, we will address the behaviour itself.
Submissive licking is usually caused by a dog that is meeker, more shy, or more scared of various things in life. It is generally caused by a desire for the dog to assert their role as the lesser animal, and assure you (in great excess) that they are a weaker animal. It is hallmarked by other submissive behaviours, like muzzle-licking themselves, licking your hands or arms in excess, fast tail wagging, whining, or even lick-and-run behaviours. When your dog is performing submissive licking, they are generally doing to to reassure you - and themselves - that there doesn't need to be any punishment or severe reaction to keep them "in line" - a symptom that your dog is not confident with either you, guests, or something in their world. It is a sign that there is something greater going on, and your scared pup needs some work.
Dominant licking however occurs when a dog insists on licking - or grooming you - because they wish to. It is a behaviour that many dominant dogs will perform, sometimes targeting places like your face, nose, and mouth - but its not usually located to a specific place of the body. A dominant licker will simply walk over and begin to lick you, whether you protest or not. Dominant licking is a way for your dog to communicate that they are granting your their affection, or they believe you need to be cleaner and are taking the matter into their own tongues. Generally speaking, dominant licking is linked to other dominant behaviours, and should be addressed in kind.
Bored licking, or licking caused by too much energy, is usually coupled with other kinds of chaos - like running, barking, pacing, or lazy behaviours, like sitting in their bed and constantly licking their paws, fur, toys, or other objects, like your table, hands, or legs. It usually can be either crazed, hyper licking that doesn't seem to stop or slow down until you distract them, or slow, rhythmic, or timed licks with or without moving or pacing behaviour. A prime example of this is a dog that has been home alone for a bit that day and their paws are licked wet, or you arrive home and they greet you not with one or two, but a thousand licks, bounce around, and circle around. You could also be watching TV and your dog will begin to absentmindedly lick your feet, or their fur, bed, or toys. These are all signs that your dog is bored and just wants to do something else - they just cannot ask you, so they occupy themselves with licking things.
Licking - How To Solve
Whatever the case, the remedy is the same. If your dog does not already understand impulse control (a common way of training this is to teach them to wait patiently for a treat and make eye contact with you before they get it), they will need at least a basic understanding of the concept, preferably a deeper, more patient understanding of "I have to wait for what I want, I cannot just go grab it until I am given permission). Once they have this understanding, here is the fun part - you are going to REWARD the licking! This sounds counter intuitive, but we are priming the licking the same way you would prime a puppy to understand the concept of treats - and also to teach the dog what the word "lick" or "kisses" means. Once they can lick on command - and no matter the cause, once they realize they can get something good out of licking, this won't be an issue - you're going to introduce the idea of stoppage - be it "No Lick" or "Stop Kissing" or however you choose to mark a cessation in the behaviour - whatever their "don't do that anymore" word is - you will reward them when they stop. Once you have them understanding they must lick on command and stop when you tell them to, you're going to apply this to real world situations, and eventually, your dog will understand that they can lick, but only when they are told to!
2) Problem Barking
When a dog barks a couple times, most people don't care - and sometimes appreciate the behaviour, especially when you don't notice someone in your yard before the dog does, or you weren't aware the delivery truck had arrived. This can be great, except if your dog likes to sound the alarm at every passerby, every vehicle, and heaven forbid, every bird or squirrel. It gets on your nerves, and the nerves of your neighbors very fast.
Most problem barking is caused by too much energy - they're barking just to bark at something, which is easily remedied by some exercise. However, there are some situations where it isn't just too much energy - when it is alarm barking, or when it is aggressive barking.
Barking from too much energy is hallmarked by a dog barking at random sounds, birds, or something you can't pinpoint. It is not quite an alarm bark, and not quite an aggressive bark, but it can be coupled with bouncing, jumping, or gymnastic style furniture hopping.
Alarm Barking is caused by a dog - whether bred to be a watchdog or not - that is a little fearful of something - usually things they cannot see or control, such as someone walking nearby, or someone knocking at the door. These dogs are borderline panicking, communicating to you that they are afraid and want you to fix it. It is hallmarked by high pitched, loud, rapid-fire barking that sounds like a machine gun burst - a kind of BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH!!!! It often includes pacing, hiding, or door charging behaviours, but can also be from a stationary position until the door is opened.
Aggressive barking is caused by a dog that is trying to look and sound like a threat, either because they believe they need to scare off anything that might challenge their dominance, or cause them or their pack harm. It is usually from a perceived belief that the human can't - or won't - protect them. Sometimes it can be fear based, a desire to appear more "tough" or on defense, but usually it is caused by dominance. It sounds deeper, slower, more fearsome, and can be coupled with growling, and bearing teeth.
Barking - How To Solve
Just like with licking, you're going to want to solve the root cause - which is harder and deeper than a simple behaviour - but for the behaviour itself, it works exactly the same as training out the licking behaviour - by rewarding it first, putting it on queue, and then teaching the concept of "no bark" or "stop barking". The root cause of the barking will however need to be addressed - and most often, when they are addressed properly, the barking issues solve themselves.
3) Whining (In Adult Dogs)
When adult dogs whine, it's typically in place of other normal adult dog behaviours, like barking or growling. Most often, it's caused when a growing puppy learns that it is acceptable and that it works to get attention or whatever they need. Some dogs naturally out-grow whining, and while it is a normal mode of communication for puppies, adult dogs should only whine when they are in pain, or to communicate fear or unease. When an adult dog uses whining as a mode of communication like a puppy, for example to catch your attention, to communicate needs like food, to pee, or exercise, or to make a noise that makes you look at or talk to them, you have a nuisance whining problem.
Nuisance whining is caused by a dog that is responded to and had learned that, for whatever the cause, they get a reaction and your attention from it, they will keep doing so, under the belief that it is how you prefer them to communicate to you. It can also be a submissive/fear related behaviour, but whatever the root, the product is the same - they have learned that it works.
Whining - How To Solve
There are two ways to train out of a whining behaviour - and you can do them both, just not at the same time. You can train it out with the above strategy and putting it on command. Once they get this concept, whining can and often still does persist, even when they understand what whining is, and that they shouldn't do it until they are asked, because it is an ingrained behaviour that is used for communicating needs. You are also going to need to totally ignore the whining behaviour, and remove yourself from the dog's presence (either by turning your back or walking away a few feet) and ignore completely until the whining has stopped - THEN reward the dog for "Good Quiet" and wait a few seconds for them to stay quiet, and give them what they want or need. This can be a long process, because the dog has had many months - sometimes years - of the behaviour getting them what they desire - be it your attention, eye contact, pets, or whathaveyou - and it's going to be a hard lesson for them to comprehend. Patience and grace goes a long way with this behaviour!
We hope we have helped!
1) Unwanted Licking
Whether it be you that is subjected to the constant tongue contact, your guests, kids, furniture, or other objects, it can get really old, really fast - especially if they don't seem to understand that it isn't wanted or acceptable. Usual licking crosses the border into nuisance licking after a few seconds. It is important to understand that licking is a normal, social behaviour that should be allowed - but only briefly, and in most normal situations.
Licking, when not linked to a neurological or psychological disorder, is caused by one of three things. Submissiveness, Dominance, and Boredom. Which of these three your dog is displaying is important to know, because it indicates greater issues - but for the purpose of this blog, we will address the behaviour itself.
Submissive licking is usually caused by a dog that is meeker, more shy, or more scared of various things in life. It is generally caused by a desire for the dog to assert their role as the lesser animal, and assure you (in great excess) that they are a weaker animal. It is hallmarked by other submissive behaviours, like muzzle-licking themselves, licking your hands or arms in excess, fast tail wagging, whining, or even lick-and-run behaviours. When your dog is performing submissive licking, they are generally doing to to reassure you - and themselves - that there doesn't need to be any punishment or severe reaction to keep them "in line" - a symptom that your dog is not confident with either you, guests, or something in their world. It is a sign that there is something greater going on, and your scared pup needs some work.
Dominant licking however occurs when a dog insists on licking - or grooming you - because they wish to. It is a behaviour that many dominant dogs will perform, sometimes targeting places like your face, nose, and mouth - but its not usually located to a specific place of the body. A dominant licker will simply walk over and begin to lick you, whether you protest or not. Dominant licking is a way for your dog to communicate that they are granting your their affection, or they believe you need to be cleaner and are taking the matter into their own tongues. Generally speaking, dominant licking is linked to other dominant behaviours, and should be addressed in kind.
Bored licking, or licking caused by too much energy, is usually coupled with other kinds of chaos - like running, barking, pacing, or lazy behaviours, like sitting in their bed and constantly licking their paws, fur, toys, or other objects, like your table, hands, or legs. It usually can be either crazed, hyper licking that doesn't seem to stop or slow down until you distract them, or slow, rhythmic, or timed licks with or without moving or pacing behaviour. A prime example of this is a dog that has been home alone for a bit that day and their paws are licked wet, or you arrive home and they greet you not with one or two, but a thousand licks, bounce around, and circle around. You could also be watching TV and your dog will begin to absentmindedly lick your feet, or their fur, bed, or toys. These are all signs that your dog is bored and just wants to do something else - they just cannot ask you, so they occupy themselves with licking things.
Licking - How To Solve
Whatever the case, the remedy is the same. If your dog does not already understand impulse control (a common way of training this is to teach them to wait patiently for a treat and make eye contact with you before they get it), they will need at least a basic understanding of the concept, preferably a deeper, more patient understanding of "I have to wait for what I want, I cannot just go grab it until I am given permission). Once they have this understanding, here is the fun part - you are going to REWARD the licking! This sounds counter intuitive, but we are priming the licking the same way you would prime a puppy to understand the concept of treats - and also to teach the dog what the word "lick" or "kisses" means. Once they can lick on command - and no matter the cause, once they realize they can get something good out of licking, this won't be an issue - you're going to introduce the idea of stoppage - be it "No Lick" or "Stop Kissing" or however you choose to mark a cessation in the behaviour - whatever their "don't do that anymore" word is - you will reward them when they stop. Once you have them understanding they must lick on command and stop when you tell them to, you're going to apply this to real world situations, and eventually, your dog will understand that they can lick, but only when they are told to!
2) Problem Barking
When a dog barks a couple times, most people don't care - and sometimes appreciate the behaviour, especially when you don't notice someone in your yard before the dog does, or you weren't aware the delivery truck had arrived. This can be great, except if your dog likes to sound the alarm at every passerby, every vehicle, and heaven forbid, every bird or squirrel. It gets on your nerves, and the nerves of your neighbors very fast.
Most problem barking is caused by too much energy - they're barking just to bark at something, which is easily remedied by some exercise. However, there are some situations where it isn't just too much energy - when it is alarm barking, or when it is aggressive barking.
Barking from too much energy is hallmarked by a dog barking at random sounds, birds, or something you can't pinpoint. It is not quite an alarm bark, and not quite an aggressive bark, but it can be coupled with bouncing, jumping, or gymnastic style furniture hopping.
Alarm Barking is caused by a dog - whether bred to be a watchdog or not - that is a little fearful of something - usually things they cannot see or control, such as someone walking nearby, or someone knocking at the door. These dogs are borderline panicking, communicating to you that they are afraid and want you to fix it. It is hallmarked by high pitched, loud, rapid-fire barking that sounds like a machine gun burst - a kind of BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH-BUH!!!! It often includes pacing, hiding, or door charging behaviours, but can also be from a stationary position until the door is opened.
Aggressive barking is caused by a dog that is trying to look and sound like a threat, either because they believe they need to scare off anything that might challenge their dominance, or cause them or their pack harm. It is usually from a perceived belief that the human can't - or won't - protect them. Sometimes it can be fear based, a desire to appear more "tough" or on defense, but usually it is caused by dominance. It sounds deeper, slower, more fearsome, and can be coupled with growling, and bearing teeth.
Barking - How To Solve
Just like with licking, you're going to want to solve the root cause - which is harder and deeper than a simple behaviour - but for the behaviour itself, it works exactly the same as training out the licking behaviour - by rewarding it first, putting it on queue, and then teaching the concept of "no bark" or "stop barking". The root cause of the barking will however need to be addressed - and most often, when they are addressed properly, the barking issues solve themselves.
3) Whining (In Adult Dogs)
When adult dogs whine, it's typically in place of other normal adult dog behaviours, like barking or growling. Most often, it's caused when a growing puppy learns that it is acceptable and that it works to get attention or whatever they need. Some dogs naturally out-grow whining, and while it is a normal mode of communication for puppies, adult dogs should only whine when they are in pain, or to communicate fear or unease. When an adult dog uses whining as a mode of communication like a puppy, for example to catch your attention, to communicate needs like food, to pee, or exercise, or to make a noise that makes you look at or talk to them, you have a nuisance whining problem.
Nuisance whining is caused by a dog that is responded to and had learned that, for whatever the cause, they get a reaction and your attention from it, they will keep doing so, under the belief that it is how you prefer them to communicate to you. It can also be a submissive/fear related behaviour, but whatever the root, the product is the same - they have learned that it works.
Whining - How To Solve
There are two ways to train out of a whining behaviour - and you can do them both, just not at the same time. You can train it out with the above strategy and putting it on command. Once they get this concept, whining can and often still does persist, even when they understand what whining is, and that they shouldn't do it until they are asked, because it is an ingrained behaviour that is used for communicating needs. You are also going to need to totally ignore the whining behaviour, and remove yourself from the dog's presence (either by turning your back or walking away a few feet) and ignore completely until the whining has stopped - THEN reward the dog for "Good Quiet" and wait a few seconds for them to stay quiet, and give them what they want or need. This can be a long process, because the dog has had many months - sometimes years - of the behaviour getting them what they desire - be it your attention, eye contact, pets, or whathaveyou - and it's going to be a hard lesson for them to comprehend. Patience and grace goes a long way with this behaviour!
We hope we have helped!
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