*Ideal Companions does not condone any form of judgment or bias on any
individual based on their living circumstances or choices therein.
How do you recognize when it's time to consider rehoming your pet?
In recent months, a rather large hot button topic around the internet has been the people that give away a dog - usually on usedeverywhere, or craigslist. Sometimes the reasons are a little weak, some times they're valid. The thing there is, many people have unforseen life events, sudden financial problems, or other issues, and no one should have to field judgment because of those problems. Today, we're talking about when it's best to admit you and your dog are not the right pair - and when it's time to send your dog onto another home.
1) You Cannot Fulfill Their Basic Needs
Sometimes, life gets so busy that our duties elsewhere fall by the wayside. Be it medical, or otherwise, sometimes owners become unable to satisfy a dog's walking needs, a dog's play needs, or a dog's training needs. If you're always finding yourself without time or ability to provide your dog with ample exercise and training every day (especially outside your home area), then it's time to rehome your pet. We all love animals, and we all want to believe we can do what's best for your dog - but if you dog needs four to six hours of exercise a day and training on top of that, and you can only provide thirty to fourty minutes of both, you're not being fair for your dog, and you're depriving him of a critical, basic need. It is important to be fair to your pet, and give them the life they need - not the one that holds them back. If you're more often finding your dog becoming bored, frustrated, hyper, or unmanageably crazy and you cannot fit in anything more for whatever reason, it's time to be fair - its time to let your pet go to someone who can.
2) When You're Unable To Properly Manage Dangerous Behaviour
Sometimes, when a dog becomes very aggressive, dominant, or excessively hyper or destructive, and an owner doesn't have the time, energy, or skill to manage these issues, it's time to admit you're not the right human for your dog. There is nothing wrong with passing your pet on to someone with more experience with your dog's issues and selecting a breed that more matches your lifestyle, energy, and skill level. Many people see this as giving up, giving in, or letting go - that's not accurate. You're allowing your dog to flourish where you are currently unable to get them to.
3) Your Family Is Unbalanced
If your household had many different personalities, that can be worked with. However, when people in your family are undermining your rules, or are not doing everything they need to do, or possibly are even intentionally hurting your dog, it's time to rehome. It is never fair to an animal when a home is unbalanced - and it's abusive to allow a dog to remain in a place where someone is intentionally undermining you, or worse, trying to hurt you or your dog.
4) You're In The Wrong Place In Life
It's fine to pursue your own needs - in fact, its important. But, when those things are getting in the way of being a good dog owner, and it's causing change in your dog, sometimes we have to pick - and if life is too important to make those dog-safe changes, we need to rehome our dogs. Sometimes, having a child or an elderly family member move in can cause priorities to change - and that's better than okay, its good! But the dog is often left by the wayside - and your kids have to come first. There is no shame in admitting your kids, or mom, are the priority. We never think things like kids or parents could get in the way or being a great dog owner - until you find yourself overwhelmed. It's best for your dog to go to a home where they can better attend to your pet.
5) Sudden Medical Issues
No one ever wants to stop being able to care for a pet - but it's even more heavy on the heart when it's because of a medical problem in yourself or someone you love. Sometimes we have to focus on ourselves, our physical or mental health - and that's unfortunate. It's best if you have to dedicate that kind of time to yourself or someone else, that you give them your all, and let someone else take time with your pet.
Friday, June 10, 2016
Monday, April 25, 2016
Seven Training Myths - Blog Thirty-Three
Today we are tackling some of the more common training myths - and why they're not true!
Myth 1
"Feeding a dog at the dinner table causes the dog to be spoiled."
This isn't true, whether you're feeding a dog human food, or their own food beside the table. While it can cause expectations and excitement, if you're using it to your advantage for training purposes, it doesn't matter whatsoever if it's at the family dinner, or outside in the middle of the night. Using human food, provided it's safe for dogs (look up a list of foods to never feed dogs, such as onions, yeast, or sugar), can actually help bond you and your dog and reinforce you as a provider, and thus, the leader. However, you will need to be careful not to encourage excitement and dominance.
Myth 2
"You can correct a puppy or tell it no just fine."
Actually, puppies are too young to be corrected, or to be told no, until they're around 10 months. This is because they can't handle knowing they've done something wrong. Of course, if it's being used to safe a life, then of course, it's better to startle or correct your dog - but keep away from the harsh no until they're bigger!
Myth 3
"Corrections are hurtful to the dog."
Corrections are gentle. Sometimes they can startle a dog, which can cause them to jump or yelp, but the idea is to break their concentration so you can redirect them. This comes in handy when your dog is so focused on something (or willfully dominant) that it ignores you. This perception generally comes from all-positive trainers, and people who cannot master corrections properly and either over correct, or mistime the correction, leading to a strong reaction from the dog in question. The main issue with corrections is they have to be exactly timed, and with a certain amount of pressure, or they do nothing. When a pair of dogs, left to their own devices, correct one another, they pin, use teeth to nip or bite, and can sometimes even grab another dog by the throat and push them down - these are all ways for one dog to communicate to another that the behaviour in question is unacceptable. Most dogs walk away just fine after this kind of altercation, sometimes being a little wary of the dog or behaviour - so how can a leash or contact correction be worse? Its not.
Myth 4
"My dog is too old to learn now, we're stuck with this behaviour."
While some behaviours can be habituated and really difficult to change, that's not really an age-related thing. Excepting of course neurological/brain wiring issues, all behaviours can be repaired, at any age. Senior dogs that may only have a few years left however may not have the time left to relearn, but its not a brain issue. All dogs can learn.
Myth 5
"My dog eliminated inside once; now I will never get them to stop."
While its true that once a dog eliminates inside the home it's pretty hard to correct the behaviour, it's always possible to fix this issue (barring any medical problems). Most dogs eliminate inside for a couple of main reasons: they're desperate and couldn't wait any longer, they're scared/startled/excited, they're generalizing the behaviour (meaning they've gone from associating outside for eliminating to outside my bed/crate), or they don't associate your home as their den yet. All of these behaviours can be retrained.
Myth 6
"My dog is doing this behaviour to get back at me."
Dogs are not capable of spite, or revenge. They live in the moment, and react accordingly. Chances are, there is something important training-wise that you're missing - unless your dog is really a cat!
Myth 7
"My dog is just over protective, he knows I am boss."
If your dog is acting defensively towards you, unless you're pregnant, that's not just being over protective; your dog believes you are his or her property, and that they must defend that item. This is a classic case of role reversal, and you need a trainer.
Myth 1
"Feeding a dog at the dinner table causes the dog to be spoiled."
This isn't true, whether you're feeding a dog human food, or their own food beside the table. While it can cause expectations and excitement, if you're using it to your advantage for training purposes, it doesn't matter whatsoever if it's at the family dinner, or outside in the middle of the night. Using human food, provided it's safe for dogs (look up a list of foods to never feed dogs, such as onions, yeast, or sugar), can actually help bond you and your dog and reinforce you as a provider, and thus, the leader. However, you will need to be careful not to encourage excitement and dominance.
Myth 2
"You can correct a puppy or tell it no just fine."
Actually, puppies are too young to be corrected, or to be told no, until they're around 10 months. This is because they can't handle knowing they've done something wrong. Of course, if it's being used to safe a life, then of course, it's better to startle or correct your dog - but keep away from the harsh no until they're bigger!
Myth 3
"Corrections are hurtful to the dog."
Corrections are gentle. Sometimes they can startle a dog, which can cause them to jump or yelp, but the idea is to break their concentration so you can redirect them. This comes in handy when your dog is so focused on something (or willfully dominant) that it ignores you. This perception generally comes from all-positive trainers, and people who cannot master corrections properly and either over correct, or mistime the correction, leading to a strong reaction from the dog in question. The main issue with corrections is they have to be exactly timed, and with a certain amount of pressure, or they do nothing. When a pair of dogs, left to their own devices, correct one another, they pin, use teeth to nip or bite, and can sometimes even grab another dog by the throat and push them down - these are all ways for one dog to communicate to another that the behaviour in question is unacceptable. Most dogs walk away just fine after this kind of altercation, sometimes being a little wary of the dog or behaviour - so how can a leash or contact correction be worse? Its not.
Myth 4
"My dog is too old to learn now, we're stuck with this behaviour."
While some behaviours can be habituated and really difficult to change, that's not really an age-related thing. Excepting of course neurological/brain wiring issues, all behaviours can be repaired, at any age. Senior dogs that may only have a few years left however may not have the time left to relearn, but its not a brain issue. All dogs can learn.
Myth 5
"My dog eliminated inside once; now I will never get them to stop."
While its true that once a dog eliminates inside the home it's pretty hard to correct the behaviour, it's always possible to fix this issue (barring any medical problems). Most dogs eliminate inside for a couple of main reasons: they're desperate and couldn't wait any longer, they're scared/startled/excited, they're generalizing the behaviour (meaning they've gone from associating outside for eliminating to outside my bed/crate), or they don't associate your home as their den yet. All of these behaviours can be retrained.
Myth 6
"My dog is doing this behaviour to get back at me."
Dogs are not capable of spite, or revenge. They live in the moment, and react accordingly. Chances are, there is something important training-wise that you're missing - unless your dog is really a cat!
Myth 7
"My dog is just over protective, he knows I am boss."
If your dog is acting defensively towards you, unless you're pregnant, that's not just being over protective; your dog believes you are his or her property, and that they must defend that item. This is a classic case of role reversal, and you need a trainer.
Friday, April 1, 2016
Training Pandemics - Blog Thirty-Two
Today, we will be talking about some of the most common dog training misinformation there is out there today. This is the kind of information that is causing thousands of poorly adjusted dogs. While all training is meant in good spirit and intended to help, a lot of advice can end up backfiring, inadvertently cause other issues, or even simply band-aid a training problem. Today, we are addressing what are, in our opinion, the worst types of training mistakes there are.
#1 - Cesar Millan
Don't get us wrong - we're not picking on Cesar's training. While yes, it is old fashioned, for a lot of the dogs he trains are at the last stop - they MUST be trained, or that's the end of it. For these last-chance dogs, they do need rapid, fast, effective changes - and Cesar offers just that, typically at the expense of the happiness or personality of the dog - called "breaking" the dog, much like older horse trainers used to do. This isn't our gripe at all - its not necessarily "bad", just outdated. That being said, this technique is ONLY useful on dogs that have to be adjusted fast or be put down, and that's the place of his style. It works, and it works fast - but for every other dog, there are better ways. Our main gripe with Cesar Millan is his style's prevalence with owners and people who watch the show or even train with him, without truly grasping his style, or what they're actually doing to their dogs. The heavy handed dominance theory, rife with alpha rolls and overstimulating corrections for minor offenses, should be in every trainers LAST LINE of defense - NOT the first, and it should never, ever be used by someone who is not a trained behaviourist. We hear it all the time - "We tried Cesar's stuff but it's not working." or "We tried pinning him, but he bit us and now the behaviour is worse". This is because it is being utilized by people in a manner it was never intended. At the end of the day, your dog has feelings, thoughts, and a brain - doesn't it make sense to use these resources first, instead of breaking your dog's personality, and trust?
#2 - All-positive Training
At the other end of the spectrum, there are people and trainers who believe there should be no "no", no corrections - and definitely no raised voices. This is great for young puppies - science has proven that a dog younger than 10 months cannot handle being told no, corrections, or stern voices. It makes them feel like they can do nothing right. However, once they're a little more mature, these dogs crave to know where the boundaries are, and what is unacceptable. We're not saying to use "no" at every turn, or correct dogs unwarranted - but it is vital to the behaviour of dogs to understand not just what is "good", but what is not so good, a mistake, or what is plain unacceptable. When a dog isn't taught these lines, and only what is good, they actually become far more likely to become unstable at a quick rate, because they have not been taught that certain behaviours are not okay - and so, while they get far better reward from other, positive actions, these unwanted behaviours are actually still filed away in their brain as "usable". When trained properly with the words "uh-uh" and "no" to mark "incorrect, try again" and "do not do that", a dog can learn to refile these behaviours as "mistake" and "unacceptable". Again, we're not saying every little thing needs a verbal correction - doing so can and does make your dog believe they're never getting anything right. We are however saying that teaching these words becomes a tool to communicate to your dog that these words aren't negative at all - they are a way to say "this is not what I want from you". The main drive for all-positive training are usually from people who have seen dogs incorrectly trained with negative feedback - such as those who have seen the aftermath of poorly utilized Cesar techniques - and are led to believe that corrections are bad, when they just have been misused. What's worse, is when a dog that's been raised with all-positive ends up in a home that attempts to utilize the word no - and find the dog shuts down, panics, or reacts aggressively, because they haven't been taught to respond properly to it.
#3 - Using Tools to Cover Training Problems
When owners are unsure how to correct an issue, the most common thing to do is to go out and buy something that solves the problem. Pulling? No-pull harness, or halti. Barking? No-bark scented collars. Snaps at other dogs? Muzzle. Fear? Anxiety shirt. Peeing in the house? Puppy pads. Fast eating? Stick a ball in it. Reactivity around toys? E-collar. Likes to wander but won't recall? Flex-lead! These types of products offer a fast, easy solution to common problems. The main issue here is it simply covers up the root cause, and doesn't address WHY these things are happening, and can end up making the problem worse when they're not being used, or cause the dog to have other, more serious issues. These items are useless. They are not teaching your dog anything new, they're not addressing the real issue, and they're mainly used to make an owner's life easy - instead of actually training a dog's issues away. All of the above issues are fixable, and most of them are pretty easy. If anyone tells you that you need to buy more than a lead or rewards to fix a problem, they are offering you a band aid. Its about as sensible as offering your over-tired child coffee. Sure, you're not going to see the problem for a while, but the real issue is still there. The only exception to this is using a tool properly to help an owner train their dog faster - such as using a vibration collar instead of a leash correction for someone who is not strong enough to offer a proper correction, or a muzzle to ensure someone's safety. This also excludes trained canine or protection dogs that require e or prong collars.
#4 - Using Forceful Means To Control A Dog
We've heard it all. Hydraulic jerks, horse whips, alpha rolls - none of which have any valid or warranted use on dogs for any reason (with exception to specially trained dogs such as schutzhund or canine units as means of desensitization) There is no legitimate and valid reason on planet earth that you'd need something like this to control an animal. Sure, if you're being attacked, by all means use them - do what you have to in order to spare yourself or family injury, but do not use them for standard training. The only real tool any trainer needs is a leash. Doing so is abusive, and destructive - they have no place in training. In fact, we have had more than a third of our cases tell us that they have been taught the hydraulic jerk.
#5 - Using Affection As A Correction
We see this everywhere - owners reassuring their dogs in an aggressive or fearful state with petting. While this logic works on children or cats, it doesn't actually work on dogs. The dog will not see it as a reassurance; they will, in all cases, breeds, and scenarios, see it as "Good; this is how I want you to act". Instead, give affection when they are precisely acting how you DO want. Its also not petting that counts as affection; eye contact, smiling, happy voice, using the name, stroking the fur, massaging, and even sometimes not doing anything at all can mean affection to a dog.
#1 - Cesar Millan
Don't get us wrong - we're not picking on Cesar's training. While yes, it is old fashioned, for a lot of the dogs he trains are at the last stop - they MUST be trained, or that's the end of it. For these last-chance dogs, they do need rapid, fast, effective changes - and Cesar offers just that, typically at the expense of the happiness or personality of the dog - called "breaking" the dog, much like older horse trainers used to do. This isn't our gripe at all - its not necessarily "bad", just outdated. That being said, this technique is ONLY useful on dogs that have to be adjusted fast or be put down, and that's the place of his style. It works, and it works fast - but for every other dog, there are better ways. Our main gripe with Cesar Millan is his style's prevalence with owners and people who watch the show or even train with him, without truly grasping his style, or what they're actually doing to their dogs. The heavy handed dominance theory, rife with alpha rolls and overstimulating corrections for minor offenses, should be in every trainers LAST LINE of defense - NOT the first, and it should never, ever be used by someone who is not a trained behaviourist. We hear it all the time - "We tried Cesar's stuff but it's not working." or "We tried pinning him, but he bit us and now the behaviour is worse". This is because it is being utilized by people in a manner it was never intended. At the end of the day, your dog has feelings, thoughts, and a brain - doesn't it make sense to use these resources first, instead of breaking your dog's personality, and trust?
#2 - All-positive Training
At the other end of the spectrum, there are people and trainers who believe there should be no "no", no corrections - and definitely no raised voices. This is great for young puppies - science has proven that a dog younger than 10 months cannot handle being told no, corrections, or stern voices. It makes them feel like they can do nothing right. However, once they're a little more mature, these dogs crave to know where the boundaries are, and what is unacceptable. We're not saying to use "no" at every turn, or correct dogs unwarranted - but it is vital to the behaviour of dogs to understand not just what is "good", but what is not so good, a mistake, or what is plain unacceptable. When a dog isn't taught these lines, and only what is good, they actually become far more likely to become unstable at a quick rate, because they have not been taught that certain behaviours are not okay - and so, while they get far better reward from other, positive actions, these unwanted behaviours are actually still filed away in their brain as "usable". When trained properly with the words "uh-uh" and "no" to mark "incorrect, try again" and "do not do that", a dog can learn to refile these behaviours as "mistake" and "unacceptable". Again, we're not saying every little thing needs a verbal correction - doing so can and does make your dog believe they're never getting anything right. We are however saying that teaching these words becomes a tool to communicate to your dog that these words aren't negative at all - they are a way to say "this is not what I want from you". The main drive for all-positive training are usually from people who have seen dogs incorrectly trained with negative feedback - such as those who have seen the aftermath of poorly utilized Cesar techniques - and are led to believe that corrections are bad, when they just have been misused. What's worse, is when a dog that's been raised with all-positive ends up in a home that attempts to utilize the word no - and find the dog shuts down, panics, or reacts aggressively, because they haven't been taught to respond properly to it.
#3 - Using Tools to Cover Training Problems
When owners are unsure how to correct an issue, the most common thing to do is to go out and buy something that solves the problem. Pulling? No-pull harness, or halti. Barking? No-bark scented collars. Snaps at other dogs? Muzzle. Fear? Anxiety shirt. Peeing in the house? Puppy pads. Fast eating? Stick a ball in it. Reactivity around toys? E-collar. Likes to wander but won't recall? Flex-lead! These types of products offer a fast, easy solution to common problems. The main issue here is it simply covers up the root cause, and doesn't address WHY these things are happening, and can end up making the problem worse when they're not being used, or cause the dog to have other, more serious issues. These items are useless. They are not teaching your dog anything new, they're not addressing the real issue, and they're mainly used to make an owner's life easy - instead of actually training a dog's issues away. All of the above issues are fixable, and most of them are pretty easy. If anyone tells you that you need to buy more than a lead or rewards to fix a problem, they are offering you a band aid. Its about as sensible as offering your over-tired child coffee. Sure, you're not going to see the problem for a while, but the real issue is still there. The only exception to this is using a tool properly to help an owner train their dog faster - such as using a vibration collar instead of a leash correction for someone who is not strong enough to offer a proper correction, or a muzzle to ensure someone's safety. This also excludes trained canine or protection dogs that require e or prong collars.
#4 - Using Forceful Means To Control A Dog
We've heard it all. Hydraulic jerks, horse whips, alpha rolls - none of which have any valid or warranted use on dogs for any reason (with exception to specially trained dogs such as schutzhund or canine units as means of desensitization) There is no legitimate and valid reason on planet earth that you'd need something like this to control an animal. Sure, if you're being attacked, by all means use them - do what you have to in order to spare yourself or family injury, but do not use them for standard training. The only real tool any trainer needs is a leash. Doing so is abusive, and destructive - they have no place in training. In fact, we have had more than a third of our cases tell us that they have been taught the hydraulic jerk.
#5 - Using Affection As A Correction
We see this everywhere - owners reassuring their dogs in an aggressive or fearful state with petting. While this logic works on children or cats, it doesn't actually work on dogs. The dog will not see it as a reassurance; they will, in all cases, breeds, and scenarios, see it as "Good; this is how I want you to act". Instead, give affection when they are precisely acting how you DO want. Its also not petting that counts as affection; eye contact, smiling, happy voice, using the name, stroking the fur, massaging, and even sometimes not doing anything at all can mean affection to a dog.
Tuesday, February 16, 2016
Why Almost Isn't Good Enough - Blog Thirty
Wow, its the thirtieth blog today, and it's been a while since the last blog!
Today's topic is something I've noticed in almost every dog-human relationship - rewarding for an "almost". When teaching a dog something new, its is indeed valuable to mark that they're going in the right direction, and communicate that yes, that's what you're trying to get them to do. We're not talking about this. You do need to mark and support your dog in new behaviours, but they don't and shouldn't need a treat or the "this is perfect" marking word. This leads to confusion. If you're using "Yes-treat" as your marker for a job well done, you shouldn't be using this to mark a correct direction. That note being aside, this isn't the instance we're talking about. A new behaviour is complicated and difficult for your dog to learn. There absolutely needs to be great communication, but no reward until they get it exactly right. Most people who do treat for almosts typically have a longer time training a behaviour, and it's often sloppy. While I totally understand the need to communicate that your dog is going the right direction, I personally disagree with this practice. The reason being, unless you're not doing a good job communicating to your dog, or teaching an incredibly complex behaviour, there is no need to reward the "almosts".
When a dog already knows a good sit, and can do it just fine, when you reward an almost, your dog learns that they don't have to do it exactly every time - and while that might not seem like a bad thing, dogs learn that they're allowed to be sloppy. This causes loads of behavioural issues, because if they can be sloppy on the little things and not take them seriously, this expands into other areas and causes a lot of handler frustration - especially when they're distracted, and go "oh yeah whatever, you don't mean come/sit/stay/stop. You didn't mean it before, so you don't mean it now." And because of that, many humans get mad at their dogs, when it's caused by their own lack of attention to detail. It might seem like a silly nit pick to have to ensure a sit is a flawless sit every time, but it really is necessary. When a dog is first learning a sit behaviour, and he is rewarded for an "I almost bummed the floor", they believe that first instance is a sit, and that's what it is - its harder to undo that behaviour than to reward a perfect sit.
When dogs learn that they can skimp on certain behaviours, such as waiting by a certain point when there is someone at the door and they're permitted to "break" that line without permission, they often believe they can do so with -all- behaviours, and consequently become the target of frustration. While this is caused by the handler, its ends up being perceived as defiance, or dominance, when it's something a simple as rewarding an "almost".
Most owners fall in to the "almost is fine" when they mistakenly believe that it's the same behaviour. For example, lets say its a rule that a dog is not allowed into a bedroom, and must wait at the door. You've trained your dog to sit at the door frame, and over time, your dog has started letting a paw just past the door, and of course since the dog is still behind the door, you ignore it and carry on. Except, you've just rewarded an almost. Remember, by ignoring a behaviour, you're communicating to your dog that what they're doing is acceptable, and that communicates just as much as a "yes" or a treat in a learned behaviour. So, your dog has learned "almost" is good enough at the door, and is likely to try "almost" with other things, such as sit for a treat, wait for the door, or even leash manners. With some canine personalities, this is a dangerous thing to teach, especially if your dog is a naturally assertive, intelligent type. Because most dogs learn fast, this is as much a good thing as it is a bad, but it means we must be careful what we let slide - and what else is going to slide.
Keep on training, everyone!
Today's topic is something I've noticed in almost every dog-human relationship - rewarding for an "almost". When teaching a dog something new, its is indeed valuable to mark that they're going in the right direction, and communicate that yes, that's what you're trying to get them to do. We're not talking about this. You do need to mark and support your dog in new behaviours, but they don't and shouldn't need a treat or the "this is perfect" marking word. This leads to confusion. If you're using "Yes-treat" as your marker for a job well done, you shouldn't be using this to mark a correct direction. That note being aside, this isn't the instance we're talking about. A new behaviour is complicated and difficult for your dog to learn. There absolutely needs to be great communication, but no reward until they get it exactly right. Most people who do treat for almosts typically have a longer time training a behaviour, and it's often sloppy. While I totally understand the need to communicate that your dog is going the right direction, I personally disagree with this practice. The reason being, unless you're not doing a good job communicating to your dog, or teaching an incredibly complex behaviour, there is no need to reward the "almosts".
When a dog already knows a good sit, and can do it just fine, when you reward an almost, your dog learns that they don't have to do it exactly every time - and while that might not seem like a bad thing, dogs learn that they're allowed to be sloppy. This causes loads of behavioural issues, because if they can be sloppy on the little things and not take them seriously, this expands into other areas and causes a lot of handler frustration - especially when they're distracted, and go "oh yeah whatever, you don't mean come/sit/stay/stop. You didn't mean it before, so you don't mean it now." And because of that, many humans get mad at their dogs, when it's caused by their own lack of attention to detail. It might seem like a silly nit pick to have to ensure a sit is a flawless sit every time, but it really is necessary. When a dog is first learning a sit behaviour, and he is rewarded for an "I almost bummed the floor", they believe that first instance is a sit, and that's what it is - its harder to undo that behaviour than to reward a perfect sit.
When dogs learn that they can skimp on certain behaviours, such as waiting by a certain point when there is someone at the door and they're permitted to "break" that line without permission, they often believe they can do so with -all- behaviours, and consequently become the target of frustration. While this is caused by the handler, its ends up being perceived as defiance, or dominance, when it's something a simple as rewarding an "almost".
Most owners fall in to the "almost is fine" when they mistakenly believe that it's the same behaviour. For example, lets say its a rule that a dog is not allowed into a bedroom, and must wait at the door. You've trained your dog to sit at the door frame, and over time, your dog has started letting a paw just past the door, and of course since the dog is still behind the door, you ignore it and carry on. Except, you've just rewarded an almost. Remember, by ignoring a behaviour, you're communicating to your dog that what they're doing is acceptable, and that communicates just as much as a "yes" or a treat in a learned behaviour. So, your dog has learned "almost" is good enough at the door, and is likely to try "almost" with other things, such as sit for a treat, wait for the door, or even leash manners. With some canine personalities, this is a dangerous thing to teach, especially if your dog is a naturally assertive, intelligent type. Because most dogs learn fast, this is as much a good thing as it is a bad, but it means we must be careful what we let slide - and what else is going to slide.
Keep on training, everyone!
Sunday, November 8, 2015
Blog Twenty Nine - Prey Drive
Prey Drive - most people think of it as an annoying habit, one that is frustratingly pervasive throughout the life of the dog. It causes the average-behaved canine into a running, oblivious, hard-to-control mess of a dog that just has to find that critter, or attack that scent source. Is there more to this behaviour? Can it be "fixed"? We will explore this topic on today's blog!
Primal Behaviour
Before we get in to Prey Drive, I need to explain a term we will be using - Primal. We at Ideal Companions use this term to describe behaviours that are deeply ingrained into a dog's genetic make-up - like howling, breeding, the need to hunt, travel - these things are so deep into a dog's behaviour that they cannot and should not be trained out. It would be as unfair as trying to stop a baby from learning to speak, or crawl. In human terms, these behaviours are automatic, like breathing. Primal Behaviour is as critical to the dog as food, water, and sleep - and there is no way to "fix" them.
Prey Drive
This term is used to describe a loose set of similar behaviours - usually ones that involve a dog bolting away, suddenly pulling, incessant barking. ignoring commands, and sometimes getting lost or worse. It can be seemingly unpredictable, and a nuisance. What exactly is prey drive? In mostly all dogs, this behaviour will exist to some degree - some more than others. It is the desire to hunt, catch, kill, eat, retrieve, search for, or otherwise track down prey. This behaviour, being primal, tends to override typical learned behaviours, in the same way an in tact male dog will ignore everything to get to a female in heat, or how a dog will just suddenly stop and poop on a sidewalk. Prey drive has the exact same natural override - often to the dismay of owners, who suddenly end up looking bad and out of control. The good news is, it may not be "fixable", but you can most definitely work with it.
Working With Drive
While it might seem impossible to turn off this instinct, the good news is, there is a ray of hope! While dogs with this instinct cannot and should not be stopped of this natural behaviour, there is a loop hole! You can actually use prey drive to your advantage. By working with games like tug, fetch, scent games, and jogging, you can use your dog's natural instincts as a reward for training. Instead of correcting out the behaviour, use it to produce what you want. The most basic and simplest use of this drive is treat training - which has it's own ups and downs. You can also use prey drive to override other instincts and use toys to teach flawless recall skills, among other amazing-looking obedience. As well, you can use prey drive to teach your dog a job - and this is just what police canines, farm dogs, and protection dogs use! Instead of being flustered and frustrated by your dog's instincts, use it ti your advantage!
Types of Prey Drive
Hunting - The desire to pursue prey. Symptoms include running suddenly off into the bush, barking at critters in trees, barking or lunging at surprises or fast moving humans (such as those on bikes, skateboards, or joggers). This drive is usually either high energy, or dead quiet and sudden.) Tug and Fetch are great ways to burn this kind of desire.
Scenting - The desire to locate prey or the cause of a scent - most common in hound breeds. Symptoms include slowing down to sniff very close to the ground, trailing off of paths, and seemingly ignoring every sound there is. This drive is almost always low energy, with some sudden bursts of running. Scent work games are a great way to burn this kind of desire.
Killing - The desire to extinguish life. Symptoms include violent head shaking, biting of the underside of the throat (NOT the back of the neck!), a quick jerk upwards or to the side, of either real or fake animals, toys, sticks, or otherwise anything that might represent a living thing, whether real or not. It is normally associated with frustration, or too much energy. While you shouldn't permit this behaviour, its far easier to redirect and drain excess energy with hing intensity exercise, every day!
Hope this blog has helped you!
Primal Behaviour
Before we get in to Prey Drive, I need to explain a term we will be using - Primal. We at Ideal Companions use this term to describe behaviours that are deeply ingrained into a dog's genetic make-up - like howling, breeding, the need to hunt, travel - these things are so deep into a dog's behaviour that they cannot and should not be trained out. It would be as unfair as trying to stop a baby from learning to speak, or crawl. In human terms, these behaviours are automatic, like breathing. Primal Behaviour is as critical to the dog as food, water, and sleep - and there is no way to "fix" them.
Prey Drive
This term is used to describe a loose set of similar behaviours - usually ones that involve a dog bolting away, suddenly pulling, incessant barking. ignoring commands, and sometimes getting lost or worse. It can be seemingly unpredictable, and a nuisance. What exactly is prey drive? In mostly all dogs, this behaviour will exist to some degree - some more than others. It is the desire to hunt, catch, kill, eat, retrieve, search for, or otherwise track down prey. This behaviour, being primal, tends to override typical learned behaviours, in the same way an in tact male dog will ignore everything to get to a female in heat, or how a dog will just suddenly stop and poop on a sidewalk. Prey drive has the exact same natural override - often to the dismay of owners, who suddenly end up looking bad and out of control. The good news is, it may not be "fixable", but you can most definitely work with it.
Working With Drive
While it might seem impossible to turn off this instinct, the good news is, there is a ray of hope! While dogs with this instinct cannot and should not be stopped of this natural behaviour, there is a loop hole! You can actually use prey drive to your advantage. By working with games like tug, fetch, scent games, and jogging, you can use your dog's natural instincts as a reward for training. Instead of correcting out the behaviour, use it to produce what you want. The most basic and simplest use of this drive is treat training - which has it's own ups and downs. You can also use prey drive to override other instincts and use toys to teach flawless recall skills, among other amazing-looking obedience. As well, you can use prey drive to teach your dog a job - and this is just what police canines, farm dogs, and protection dogs use! Instead of being flustered and frustrated by your dog's instincts, use it ti your advantage!
Types of Prey Drive
Hunting - The desire to pursue prey. Symptoms include running suddenly off into the bush, barking at critters in trees, barking or lunging at surprises or fast moving humans (such as those on bikes, skateboards, or joggers). This drive is usually either high energy, or dead quiet and sudden.) Tug and Fetch are great ways to burn this kind of desire.
Scenting - The desire to locate prey or the cause of a scent - most common in hound breeds. Symptoms include slowing down to sniff very close to the ground, trailing off of paths, and seemingly ignoring every sound there is. This drive is almost always low energy, with some sudden bursts of running. Scent work games are a great way to burn this kind of desire.
Killing - The desire to extinguish life. Symptoms include violent head shaking, biting of the underside of the throat (NOT the back of the neck!), a quick jerk upwards or to the side, of either real or fake animals, toys, sticks, or otherwise anything that might represent a living thing, whether real or not. It is normally associated with frustration, or too much energy. While you shouldn't permit this behaviour, its far easier to redirect and drain excess energy with hing intensity exercise, every day!
Hope this blog has helped you!
Monday, October 12, 2015
Top Causes Of Canine Misbehaviour - Blog Twenty Eight
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! Ironically, today was the day I had the most time to type up a blog, but then again, having a baby will do that! Today's topic is the most common causes of canine misbehaviour - in no particular order. These are the main triggers for the bulk of our clientele.
1. Inconsistency
Topping our list here is a fairly common occurrence; owners that are not consistent every day. This is often caused by either a lack of understanding or lack of desire to correct behaviours before they begin, and/or which behaviours are problematic at which point. Even many dog trainers, seasoned ones, us included, have fallen victim to this. Most often, it's caused by a simple oversight, such as not realizing something has happened, or missing a behaviour entirely. It's also caused by thinking if a dog is corrected or redirected once, that's all that is needed.
2. Not Training From Day One
Another common issue is when people purchase, adopt, or foster a dog into their home, and believe the dog needs "buffer time", or a time to adjust to the new space with no rules or boundaries. This myth creates a vast and severe issue with all dogs; they need guidance and control in order to feel as if they have a place, a purpose, and a role. If this need isn't satisfied, they fill in those gaps themselves - and usually in a way that upsets the balance of the household. Dogs are not like adopted human children - they don't need the buffer zone, as they crave and desire leadership. Instead of allowing them this massive gap of confusing freedom, it is far healthier and beneficial to establish your expectations immediately - and preempt any possible issues, even before they enter your home.
3. Not Fulfilling Exercise and Mental Needs
The majority of owners seem to misunderstand the actual depth of exercise needs of their dogs - and tend to overlook two thirds of it. All dogs need at least an hour a day, and that's just for the laziest dogs, such as bloodhounds and bulldogs. Most dogs need much more than this. However, physical exercise is vastly secondary to mental exercise needs, and the need to explore and hunt. These primal needs override physical exercise needs, and most owners tend to overlook or not even realize their pets need this outlet. Dogs desperately need to think and learn on a daily basis, to use their minds, and discover new things. A dog that is trained to ignore this need is often frustrated, and seems to stop learning things the owner wishes to teach them, which is the main issue with 100% dominance training. As well as that, dogs need to visit new places and explore them - a need that is often left behind.
4. Ignoring Breed Need
Some, but not all people bring dogs home based on looks, without taking in to consideration what the breed is intended for. This creates frustration and trust issues, and devalues the dog. For instance, picking a Husky for it's looks, without realizing they need 12 hours of solid, intense exercise a day (and brushing four times a day!) or a Jack Russel without taking into account they are a high energy working breed that is supposed to hunt and flush out rodents and game. When a dog isn't fulfilling what it's meant to, it creates massive problems.
5. Too Many Rules
When someone goes overboard on giving a dog boundaries and overdoes the control, a dog won't know it's place or purpose - instead, it will believe it cannot do anything right, and will become frustrated, and lash out, or become mischievous. It is very important that a dog have structure, rules, and a routine, but when it's taken too far, it ends up being counter productive - and isn't fun for anyone.
6. Not Enough Rules
As opposed to too many rules, it happens to be far more common for someone to not have enough. If a dog is given too many freedoms, it ends up most often believing it is the one in control, and not the human - something not only unnatural, but confusing, and frustrating. When a dog doesn't have natural boundaries that make sense in the dog world, it ends up being like a spoiled toddler. Just like kids, dogs need structure. While all people like to give dogs freedom, things like off leash walking or freedom of toy play can and do lead to dangerous and often heart breaking ends.
7. Spoiled
By giving too much affection (to a dog, it's not just petting that is affection; it's their name being said, your voice, certain moments of eye contact, treats, meal time, and many other things equate to affection). An overdose of these things leads to an entitled dog - one that will often push the point to get what it wants, because it believes it is owed to them. Difficult for humans to undo this habit as it is, it's doubly so for the dog to adjust.
8. No Training Whatsoever
Some people bring a dog into their lives and hit all the prior marks, but fail to train their dogs at all. Commands and skills are vital to the confidence and communication skills of a dog; without them, they don't speak human language, and become dangerous to take anywhere. These dogs are often terrors on four legs, because they cannot understand human-canine social boundaries, and have absolutely no relationship with their human.
9. Stopping Training At Puppy-Hood
Many people stop teaching their dog new things once they reach adulthood, believing that sit, no, and down are sufficient skills for a dog, when this is the farthest from the truth. Dogs always need to add new skills and commands to their repertoire to learn and communicate better with humans; new skills also teach confidence, and flawless obedience. While it might be easier for the human to not have to train new skills to a dog, it's far more vital for the dog. Owning a dog isn't solely about the human after all.
10. Misreading Symptoms
By far the number one issue of all of these is the frequency at which people misread their dogs. So many people mistake dominance for aggression, fear for uncertainty, or excitement for happiness. It is so damaging to categorize and normalize behaviours that are not healthy. While any good trainer and owner should be able to utilize these behaviours to redirect and retrain a dog, they first must understand a behaviour's roots, and why they aren't healthy. Excitement can be used to teach intensity and accuracy of a behaviour, however when allowed on its own and misunderstood as happiness, the dog can very quickly become unstable.
11. BONUS: Not Enforcing Rules Fast Enough!
When a dog misbehaves, you have about one second to react before you lose effectiveness. When you first meet a dog, you have about three seconds to make an impression, establish the rules, and make a solid expectation of the relationship. While on most encounters with dogs you will likely never meet again, this skill is not important. However, this skill is absolutely vital with dogs you'll meet more than once.
Have a great day, everyone!
1. Inconsistency
Topping our list here is a fairly common occurrence; owners that are not consistent every day. This is often caused by either a lack of understanding or lack of desire to correct behaviours before they begin, and/or which behaviours are problematic at which point. Even many dog trainers, seasoned ones, us included, have fallen victim to this. Most often, it's caused by a simple oversight, such as not realizing something has happened, or missing a behaviour entirely. It's also caused by thinking if a dog is corrected or redirected once, that's all that is needed.
2. Not Training From Day One
Another common issue is when people purchase, adopt, or foster a dog into their home, and believe the dog needs "buffer time", or a time to adjust to the new space with no rules or boundaries. This myth creates a vast and severe issue with all dogs; they need guidance and control in order to feel as if they have a place, a purpose, and a role. If this need isn't satisfied, they fill in those gaps themselves - and usually in a way that upsets the balance of the household. Dogs are not like adopted human children - they don't need the buffer zone, as they crave and desire leadership. Instead of allowing them this massive gap of confusing freedom, it is far healthier and beneficial to establish your expectations immediately - and preempt any possible issues, even before they enter your home.
3. Not Fulfilling Exercise and Mental Needs
The majority of owners seem to misunderstand the actual depth of exercise needs of their dogs - and tend to overlook two thirds of it. All dogs need at least an hour a day, and that's just for the laziest dogs, such as bloodhounds and bulldogs. Most dogs need much more than this. However, physical exercise is vastly secondary to mental exercise needs, and the need to explore and hunt. These primal needs override physical exercise needs, and most owners tend to overlook or not even realize their pets need this outlet. Dogs desperately need to think and learn on a daily basis, to use their minds, and discover new things. A dog that is trained to ignore this need is often frustrated, and seems to stop learning things the owner wishes to teach them, which is the main issue with 100% dominance training. As well as that, dogs need to visit new places and explore them - a need that is often left behind.
4. Ignoring Breed Need
Some, but not all people bring dogs home based on looks, without taking in to consideration what the breed is intended for. This creates frustration and trust issues, and devalues the dog. For instance, picking a Husky for it's looks, without realizing they need 12 hours of solid, intense exercise a day (and brushing four times a day!) or a Jack Russel without taking into account they are a high energy working breed that is supposed to hunt and flush out rodents and game. When a dog isn't fulfilling what it's meant to, it creates massive problems.
5. Too Many Rules
When someone goes overboard on giving a dog boundaries and overdoes the control, a dog won't know it's place or purpose - instead, it will believe it cannot do anything right, and will become frustrated, and lash out, or become mischievous. It is very important that a dog have structure, rules, and a routine, but when it's taken too far, it ends up being counter productive - and isn't fun for anyone.
6. Not Enough Rules
As opposed to too many rules, it happens to be far more common for someone to not have enough. If a dog is given too many freedoms, it ends up most often believing it is the one in control, and not the human - something not only unnatural, but confusing, and frustrating. When a dog doesn't have natural boundaries that make sense in the dog world, it ends up being like a spoiled toddler. Just like kids, dogs need structure. While all people like to give dogs freedom, things like off leash walking or freedom of toy play can and do lead to dangerous and often heart breaking ends.
7. Spoiled
By giving too much affection (to a dog, it's not just petting that is affection; it's their name being said, your voice, certain moments of eye contact, treats, meal time, and many other things equate to affection). An overdose of these things leads to an entitled dog - one that will often push the point to get what it wants, because it believes it is owed to them. Difficult for humans to undo this habit as it is, it's doubly so for the dog to adjust.
8. No Training Whatsoever
Some people bring a dog into their lives and hit all the prior marks, but fail to train their dogs at all. Commands and skills are vital to the confidence and communication skills of a dog; without them, they don't speak human language, and become dangerous to take anywhere. These dogs are often terrors on four legs, because they cannot understand human-canine social boundaries, and have absolutely no relationship with their human.
9. Stopping Training At Puppy-Hood
Many people stop teaching their dog new things once they reach adulthood, believing that sit, no, and down are sufficient skills for a dog, when this is the farthest from the truth. Dogs always need to add new skills and commands to their repertoire to learn and communicate better with humans; new skills also teach confidence, and flawless obedience. While it might be easier for the human to not have to train new skills to a dog, it's far more vital for the dog. Owning a dog isn't solely about the human after all.
10. Misreading Symptoms
By far the number one issue of all of these is the frequency at which people misread their dogs. So many people mistake dominance for aggression, fear for uncertainty, or excitement for happiness. It is so damaging to categorize and normalize behaviours that are not healthy. While any good trainer and owner should be able to utilize these behaviours to redirect and retrain a dog, they first must understand a behaviour's roots, and why they aren't healthy. Excitement can be used to teach intensity and accuracy of a behaviour, however when allowed on its own and misunderstood as happiness, the dog can very quickly become unstable.
11. BONUS: Not Enforcing Rules Fast Enough!
When a dog misbehaves, you have about one second to react before you lose effectiveness. When you first meet a dog, you have about three seconds to make an impression, establish the rules, and make a solid expectation of the relationship. While on most encounters with dogs you will likely never meet again, this skill is not important. However, this skill is absolutely vital with dogs you'll meet more than once.
Have a great day, everyone!
Wednesday, September 16, 2015
Behaviour Ratings - Blog Twenty Seven
Today's topic will be a breakdown of, in our experience and professional opinion, is the main scale of canine behaviour. Based on multiple sources, we have compiled our knowledge in this graphic, to illustrate how dog behaviour looks, what is healthy and normal, what is getting unhealthy, and what is downright bad. This breakdown is intended as a basic guide for evaluation, not as a replacement for training.
Peace
At the core of every dog is a desire to be calm, peaceful, relaxed, and balanced. It is totally normal for a dog to be at peace most of the time; in fact, it is their heart's desire. However, that isn't to say that they cannot branch out into other moods and not be normal - in fact, it's very important. While it should be a goal that your dog should get to and stay at peace, there's nothing wrong with letting them branch out a little in any direction!
The Four Categories
When a dog branches out into one of the four main behaviour types, or on the border of two, it can either be acceptable, or unacceptable. While a dog cannot be both aggressive and hyper at the same time, and not dominant and fearful at the same time, they can absolutely be dominant-aggressive, hyper-dominant, hyper-fearful, and fearful-aggressive. Wherever your dog sits on this scale, we will go over symptoms, and what the stages look like.
Excitement
When happiness is normal or acceptable, it resembles a gently perky, perhaps a little more active, slightly wagging tail. This is a fine level of excitement; however, it can go too far.
1 - Happiness
This totally normal stage of excitement will look calm and gentle, but slightly more active than a peaceful state. Typically happy dogs are exercised, walked, and are simply enjoying life and it's scenery. It is common to mistake excitedness as happiness, but they are not synonymous.
2 - Bouncy
While bordering on too much, a bouncy dog is okay - but it is a sign they're getting a little stir crazy and need to exercise their minds and body. A bouncy dog will be just that - running about, and bouncy, like a three year old after too much sugar.
3 - Excited
When it gets out of hand is when a dog is excited. This is an unhealthy level of excitement, and is no longer going to be constructive, or beneficial to allow or encourage. It's marked by lots of excited barking, crazy running around, ignoring of commands, and a tail that is wagging quickly.
4 - Rambunctious
This stage is where it's gone way too far and should have been stopped or corrected before it got here. Hallmarked by a jumping, incessant barking, and a tail that looks like a ceiling fan, this type of excitement is very dangerous - about as dangerous as aggression or fear at this stage - and consequently will undo much of your training the longer you allow you dog to be here. This kind of excitement should be addressed and dealt with before they enter the black level.
5 - HYPER!
When all the stops are blown and your dog is out of control, we call this hyper - the black level of excitement. When this stage has occurred, your dog will likely be a nuisance; destroying things, barking non-stop, ignoring everything you have to say, tearing about your house like a tornado, and possibly be playing keep-away and other really irritating games. Your dog needs to burn off mental energy like yesterday!
Anxiety
This behaviour is typically associated with whining, avoidance, and other behaviours - but what level is safe, and what level is not?
1 - Unsure
When a dog just plain isn't used to something or isn't totally sure what's expected, or what's going to happen, they become a little unsure. This is typically seen with a raised paw, slowing down, or watching whatever it is that's causing it. While its normal, don't react too much - it can teach your dog that their concerns are valid.
2 - Avoidant
After a dog has gone past unsure, they become avoidant - a behaviour that causes them to move away, give space, or just ignore what's affecting them. While borderline acceptable, you'll need to intervene here before it gets too far. Being a little unsure is okay; it could just be their personality. However, avoidance very quickly unravels into fear.
3 - Anxiety
When a dog learns that their concerns are justified, either by handler error or a traumatic experience, they become anxious. This usually looks like some body tension, whining, pacing, or warning bites. A dog that believes it either should not be scared, or is expected to deal with this fear themselves, will often become unstable and strike unexpectedly, or shut down. Either reaction is normal, but unhealthy.
4 - Reactive/Defensive
After the dog has gone through anxiety and has been allowed to believe either that their behaviour is expected (happens through trying to console or pet a dog while they're scared), or the signs have been missed and the handler hadn't noticed until now. In either case, a dog will either be reactive (barking, growling, attacking, unstable aggression that looks worse on the outside, ect) or defensive (fleeing, yelping, panicking, ect). This behaviour should be addressed and rehabilitated immediately before it gets into fear. Other behaviours in this category that are not safe or normal are door alarm barking and charging (a sign your dog has gotten too unstable in regards to perimeter threats), and food defensiveness.
5 - FEAR!
When a dog has moved into full blown fear, one of two behaviour types occur; fight, or flight. When a dog feels they are afraid but need to defend themselves, in fight mode, they use fake-it-till-they-make-it style; looking way more threatening than whatever is threatening to them. These dogs are almost always mistaken as being "aggressive", when a dog in a fear state will hardly ever actually strike. In flight mode, a dog will commonly hide, urinate, whine or yelp incessantly, or flee from the source until it's totally gone or dealt with.
Aggression
Typically associated with violent behaviour, there is in fact a level of aggression that's not only healthy, but encouraged. Surprised? Most people are. When it gets too far is where it affects the state of mind of other people or dogs.
1 - Alert
Alertness is actually a very healthy behaviour - it's a sign your dog is paying attention to something. It is a gentle behaviour that involves looking, smelling, and watching in a passive but aware manner.
2 - Alarmed
When a dog becomes alarmed, it means they have seen something that has caused them to become more than just alert and sees something as a potential concern. They will be staring with tension, and can be softly growling. While it should be addressed and stopped soon, you can sometimes let it slide when and if it's in defense if their own property, but only for a short time, because it very quickly bleeds into defensiveness.
3 - Defensive
Once a dog has flagged something a potential threat, and they are not scared of it, they become defensive. This essentially means that they believe it is up to them to handle this threat. A defensive dog has gone from watching and aware to signalling to this threat that they're ready to act - commonly by growing, showing teeth, and lots of body tension. It is when a dog become silent in this category that there could be some bleeding into reactive.
4 - Reactive
Once defensiveness warnings have gone unheeded, a dog will fly into reactivity - a way to communicate that they find this threat unacceptable. They will bite and draw blood as a way to drive the threat off, shake their heads with violence to try and stun or kill the threat, and also offer a deep, throaty bark that serves as a final warning.
5 - TRUE AGGRESSION!
Once all the warnings have been ignored, or the dog is suddenly triggered, a dog becomes truly aggressive. It is used primarily as a means of self-defense or a hunt-and-kill behaviour that is usually in a life-or-death scenario. True aggression is hallmarked by attacking with intent to kill (biting the front or underside of the throat), biting without any warning, and silence. Aggression that has a lot of growling and barking in it is not true aggression; it is a fear reaction.
Dominance
Finally, we come to dominance - a behaviour commonly mistaken for common and normal - but there is a line that shouldn't be crossed.
1- Confidence
A confident dog can't be scared, startled, or set off. It is a great behaviour to encourage when it needs to be present, and is a very healthy starting point. It is obvious by a loose but high tail (middle or upper, not high mast), and a straight, non-tense back and straight, forward ears.
2 - Assertive
An assertive dog knows what they want, and will express it - while its not an issue at a smaller level, it can become an issue if it's encouraged or allowed too far. An assertive dog will take what they want (such as a spot on the couch without asking, food off your plate or counter, ect), remove their things where you and others cannot get to them, and assert that things and places belong to them - typically with short warning growls.
3 - Reactive
Once dominance has moved too far, a dog will become reactive. These dogs believe that they are in control and must maintain that control in order for their home and family to be safely balanced - which causes havoc in human lives and can destroy homes and friendships in the process. A reactive dog will give barks to warn you that you're taking too many liberties (a similar bark to an aggressive bark; low and throaty), warning nips that can sometimes draw blood and involve teeth contact, and herding (guiding you physically with nipping or shoving) and charging (running full tilt at you with teeth bared).
4 - Authoritative
Warning signs that a dog thinks he is King Turd of Poop Island are often mistaken as passive and normal, when in fact this dog has gone past reactivity into prevention. These dogs will ensure you don't even have a chance to challenge their authority because they will confront you and everyone else way before you can try to challenge, such as biting you before you can even touch their food or toys, or staring at you in the way that makes you slow down. They also leave their marks everywhere for everyone else to pay attention to, such as marking every tree and bush, scratching the ground to alert others, and won't walk properly on a lead. These dogs often assume leadership with strangers and express it, and might sometimes listen when they feel like it, but its often a strike out otherwise.
5 - TRUE DOMINANCE!When dominant behaviour has gone too far, it becomes true dominance. Rare and uncommon, this is usually caused by a very inexperienced owner or handler that has too much dog for their life and or personality - and is unfortunately difficult to reverse. True dominance is very unpredictable and yet predictable in its symptoms; these dogs will charge and growl with the intent to follow through and attack to hurt or kill, can strike without any warning, and will have a very high and tense tail and muscles that signal they are ready to assert themselves any time, any place. Great care and caution must be taken with dogs at this level, and owners are encouraged to call professionals or surrender their dogs to a rehabilitation expert.
In close, we hope this little graph and it's long explanation will help you analyze your dog, and their level of behaviour! Let's all keep our ideal companions in the green!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)