Many families choose the holidays to buy a puppy for family - its also the busiest time for shelters, pounds, and rescues, because many people don't truly realize how much work and time consumption that a puppy comes with. This sad statistic could be helped very quickly if people had better information before they get a dog, and better support systems for those who decide to see puppyhood through. However, even with all those things in place for some families, its still overwhelming, and many early errors make for very frustrating behaviours when the puppy isn't so small and cute anymore. Today's blog topic will be all about new puppies - and what owners should do (and expect) from a brand new baby animal.
Day One
The First Hour
Regardless to whether the dog is a surprise gift, or the family already knows, the first thing, before your dog even gets "wrapped" or introduced, the moment the dog is brought away from the breeder, it is absolutely important that the little one be allowed to explore - even if that means putting him in a coat and booties and letting him smell your yard in the snow. Inside, outside. Let him get a feel - and smell - for his home, including the crate, bathrooms, everything! Spend thirty or so minutes outside (weather permitting - if it's really cold, spend five and do it in bits), and thirty or so inside. This will let your dog become more comfortable with your house. Please don't just wrap the poor little one up and present them as a gift on the big day. Arrange to have time before for your dog to be comfortable. This is a very frightening time for your dog. Imagine a human child, just barely learning to walk, suddenly uprooted from their family, and sent off to a family of aliens with giant furniture and new sights and things to smell. Just as terrifying as this would be for a child, imagine how it is for a puppy who also has no realm of understanding of what's going om and why they're not with their mom anymore.
Bonus Points:
If your puppy pees in the yard, become excited (as they pee), saying things like "Yay! You went pee! Hooray!" and if you can, offer a bit of steak or chicken to mark this occasion. He'll start to pick up that peeing outside is a good thing..
Do Not:
Offer any excitement or squealy voices (Except the aforementioned) on the first day. This will set your dog up to feel overwhelmed and hyper (which might seem cute now, but just wait a month or so when your dog can knock stuff over and play nips). Stay calm and quiet today. (I know, it's so hard!)
After The First Hour
Once your dog has had time to explore (and hopefully pee!) your dog is likely going to be super tired. This is a great time to start crate training, if your breeder or seller hasn't done so already. No dog is born hating crates. When your dog is clearly tired, place (or lure) them into the crate, and get down there with them. You're going to say "Crate!" (or whatever word you want to use - bed, place, and cage are others) to mark what this place is. Offer some affection and leave the door OPEN for this nap. The idea is to teach the dog that this is a place to sleep, not that they will be stuck in it. Your pup should fall asleep easily, especially with soothing rubs and having you nearby. Pet them to sleep only the first nap or to - then he needs to drift off just with you nearby. Use this time to prepare your dog's first meal at home (if they haven't eaten yet beforehand). Serve this meal inside the crate with water too, leaving the dish near the back or the side, once he's starting to wake up, serve the meal. Your dog will learn that the crate is for eating, as well as resting, and will become a very positive place very quickly. You might even find him returning to the crate and sniffing around and barking when he gets hungry - a good sign he knows the crate is a happy, calm place.
Bonus Points:
Have some chew toys in the crate waiting! When you see your dog playing with them, say things like "Yes! Chew Toy! Chew in your Crate!" or "Oh, yeah! Chew! Crate Chews!" This will put the item in context with what it's called and where it's to be used. This will farther accentuate this place for your dog as fun and relaxing.
Do Not:
Close the door yet, do not leave them unattended, and do not correct them! Don't pet them to sleep every time either, allow them to fall asleep alone with you in vision nearby.
The Rest Of The First Day
After a nap, a good meal, and possibly a good chew, it is play time! This first session is critical for bonding and rule forming. It's an excellent time to introduce bonding games, name response, and recall. Things like tug and fetch should be started gently and slowly. However your dog wants to play with these items today is what you need to do. The first step is simply letting your dog investigate and learn about these toys, and associate them with you. Following the same pattern of using a word and excitement to mark what something is, you're going to do that with each toy once they mouth the items. To start name response (and recall at the same time!) you're going to use raw meat (steak or chicken), and keep it where your dog CANNOT see it. You're going to say their name, encourage them over, shuffle backwards (to encourage forward movement), and once they reach you, you're going to award the treat after saying "YES! Name." They will pick up on this pretty fast. This process should continue all day (with pee breaks of course)! After the first meal with the door open, you're going to offer the food, and close the door. Open it when he's done.
Bonus Points:
Getting your pup used to a lead by using a short loopless drag leash with a puppy collar (not a martingale or choker)!
Do Not:
Overdo the excitement or exercise. Don't do anything with your dog now that you don't want them doing as an adult (such as lap sitting, especially if your dog is going to be over 100 pounds!)
Evening Time
After a full day of naps and play, this is the time to close the door. While your pup falls asleep before dinner, you're going to shut the gate. Your dog might notice or whine a bit, but with you being nearby, as long as you are there, he should fall asleep with little problem. While he's sleeping, prepare the meal, and put it in as he's sleeping, then reclose the door. This way, he will wake up and eat, and know that the door will be shut. This will be normal to him before long, and he will learn that the door shut means rest and food - more positive things.
Bonus Points:
Continue this pattern at night (pee, in crate, close door, puppy falls asleep with you in vision nearby), and maintain that they only sleep in the crate. This is for most dogs, but as some dogs have medical issues, some need to be monitored, so that is why this is in bonus points.
Do Not:
Close the door on a hyper dog without some distraction like food. This creates anxiety and a trapped feeling rather than the calm and happy that we want.
After One Week
Once you've had a pattern going for a full week (Your dog will need pee breaks all night long every couple hours and yes this is exhausting!), you're going to spend the full day today setting up rules. By now, your dog will know about the crate, food, sleep, its name, starts of playing games, and recall, now you're going to teach him that there are rules to life. Before now, your dog should have been either playing, peeing, or in the crate. There should absolutely be NO time where your dog is alone or exploring. Too much freedom too fast can create assertive, disrespectful dogs. Today, that changes! You're going to start teaching your dog basic commands today, leash manners, and that he must stop when you say so. You can also introduce a no-dog-zone such as a laundry room, cleaning closet, or bathroom (for safety reasons). To start commands, you're going to start teaching luring. Please review a video (such as Michael Ellis's theory on dog training or Leerburg's Puppies 8 weeks to 8 months) for more on this. To start a no dog zone, and the stop command, we're going to use the same premise. Start by leashing your dog and guiding them around. You can dance, be happy, whatever gets your dog moving. You'll be teaching him to follow leash pressure, and then you'll be stopping all your movements abruptly and say "STOP!" Your dog will stop too, and after a few times, learn that "stop" means stop moving immediately. This is the basics for both stopping on command, and not entering a room (because you can tell them to stop before entering a room). You can also couple this command with a recall by bringing them to you after a stop command with their name. To introduce no bolting from a crate, you're going to also train that just because a
door is open doesn't mean they bolt out of an ex-pen or crate. Open the
door, and as they move to bolt out, abruptly shut the door (well, don't
slam it in their face, but bump the muzzle if you need to).
Bonus Points:
Have this time to train all basic commands!
Do Not:
Correct, say no, or otherwise use negative words! If your dog doesn't do it right, just ignore it and try again!
One Week and Three Days
Its time for the first walk! Many owners start walks from day one, but this is too much for a little dog all at once. By stalling the walk and working on at-home things and leash work, you're establishing that play and learning happens at home. Walks should be about burning energy and getting outside. Today's walk should be about half an hour, and in the immediate neighborhood. Encourage smelling, but also keep moving, and work on leash work.
Bonus Points:
Doing shorter, more frequent walks this week!
Do Not:
Correct your dog, discourage smelling, allow loitering, allow greets (just yet!).
The Second Week
After establishing that walks are for peeing and exercise, not loitering and greets, you can start to allow some greeting (although its better to train your dog to ignore other dogs, this prevents all dog-related issues and prevents fights or over-excitement for other dogs), and encourage on-lead exploring. You can also start playing tug or fetch outside partway through your walk. The big thing on the second week, though? You can start venturing out of your neighborhood! Now that your dog is used to walking nicely and and is accustomed to being outside, you should go somewhere brand new once a week (or daily if you can!)
Bonus Points:
Train your dog that "social" is DOG social - safely being near other families and dogs without the stress of saying "hi". This is not only abnormal for dogs to learn to greet like we expect them to, it creates a whole realm of problems. Your dog will adjust quickly to ignore and diffuse other more assertive dogs, and be near all dogs safely.
Do Not:
Correct your dog, discourage smelling, and do not overwalk your puppy!
The Third Month
After a good three months of all these things, you can finally introduce ex-pens and the word "no"! You can now leave your dog in an ex-pen and let him play by himself for an hour or two per day and get on with other things. Ex-pens are about play and containment though, so keep the crate for relaxing, sleeping, and eating. This will give you ample time to feel a little less like you have a puppy attached to you 24/7. This will also get your dog used to occupying himself alone, and not have to rely on you for it all. The first few days in an ex-pen tend to be the most difficult. To teach no, while training a command, if they make a mistake, instead of just retrying the command, you're going to say "No, command". This trains the dog that "no" means they've made a mistake, try again. You still SHOULD NOT offer a corrective behavioural negative like "No you messed up" as they're still too young to handle that.
Bonus Points:
Teach your pup that no bolting applies to the ex-pen too.
Do Not:
Offer a corrective behavioural negative "no" just yet. You can do this starting at eight months.
The Eighth Month - No!
If you've taught that No means wrong, try again, use a different word or sound for a corrective negative. Uh-uh or Aah! Are popular alternatives. The best place to start this is with inappropriate chewing, or indoor accidents. Your goal with these words is to mildly startle them at the beginning of the behaviour. So if your dog is chewing on the table leg, say "AHH!" sharply and loudly, which will usually make your dog stop what he's doing to look at you. Then immediately replace the table leg with a chew toy which you should have primed already by saying "Chew!" as a brand new puppy. Once your dog takes the toy, say "Yes!" and offer a pet or head scratch. This lets the dog know that he's obeyed you. This is a replacement offer. Instead of making your dog feel like he is failing, he will know that he made a mistake, but he did the right thing after. This will encourage obedience and compliance, because good things happen when he stops an unwanted behaviour in exchange for a better behaviour. The sane applies for other things like indoor peeing - see the squat or leg lift and offer the same correction, then take him immediately outside and amply reward the outdoor peeing.
Bonus Points:
Using Aah on the walk to disallow sniffing and greeting (you're teaching he does not always get what he wants and you can use this to keep him safe from assertive or dominant dogs).
Do Not:
Use this correction too frequently, or too sternly, or in anger. Ever.
These are all the tips we can fit in today's blog, we hope this helps!
Monday, December 19, 2016
Thursday, November 24, 2016
Holiday Safety - Blog Fourty
With holidays creeping closer for many walks of life, there comes many potential hazards and problems. Dogs frequently get in to holiday treats, trees, lights, presents, decorations, you name it. It can often land them in trouble, or worse - and require a trip to the vet. Guests and strange people visiting can often send dogs into an anxious tizzy, and sometimes, they're not quite the same after the holidays. How do we prevent these kinds of things?
1) Impulse Control
Heading the top of our list is the number one way to prevent most dog-related holiday problems, and many other non-holiday ones, as well. It is the most under taught and undervalued skill a dog can have. Impulse Control teaches a dog to wait for permission to touch or approach anything at all, even his own food. It teaches a dog that simply because a human is not touching it does not mean that it is open for him to take or play with. Impulse control gives the dog the mindset that everything belongs to the human, and he is occasionally allowed to play with or eat a few things.
2) Leave It and Drop It
When Impulse Control fails (and every dog has their moments), the next best skill they can learn is Leave it (meaning don't touch that thing you're going for) and Drop It (Put that out of your mouth and leave it alone). These skills cover any situation where a dog is going for or has gone for something that could injure them - such as those dark chocolate candy cane bark treats, or the lights on the tree.
3) Kennel Training
In situations like dinners or parties where you just simply don't have the time or resources to monitor your dog, kennel training is an excellent way of mitigating potential disaster. If a dog is properly kennel trained, they enjoy time in their kennel, and don't try and break out or whine. This pretty much eliminates any possibility of holiday injury - but please don't leave your dog in a kennel more than a couple of hours.
4) Ex-Pen
For higher energy dogs where a kennel is just simply too much confinement in such excitement, using an ex-pen is a superb way of safely containing a dog while still leaving room to let your dog have space to play around.
5) Door Manners
The last thing you want is to have your over excited dog bowl some poor guest over at the door because they're so excited, especially if your dog injures themselves or your guest. Teaching a dog proper door manners will avoid all dog related door injuries.
6) Place/Bed Command
The Place or Bed command works like a less strict kennel, where your dog can occupy a space and move around a little, but essentially stay out from underfoot. This is good for small parties where you can keep an eye, but shouldn't be considered a means of safely containing your dog.
7) Not That, But This
A dog getting in to things they're not supposed to is an indication that they are bored, hungry, or both. The dog is trying to communicate that in some way, they feel left out, and need some form of attention, especially if they are chewing on your elf-on-the-shelf or trying to snag a shortbread. Instead of scolding and frustrating the dog that just wants some attention too, make a trade, with an appropriate correction. Our goal here is Correct, Require Behaviour, Redirect. In other words, you're going to issue a command, such as Drop It, Leave It, whathaveyou. Once your dog obeys, acknowledge that, and give them a task, such as sit, or such as paw the treat cupboard, bring a toy - anything that forces the dog to perform a behaviour and sidetrack the mind. Then, once that's done, you're going to give the dog exactly what he wants - just in a more appropriate form, such as a tug toy, game of fetch for a bit, or a meal or treat. Instead of simply correcting and frustrating your already frustrated dog, you're communicating that how they're acting is inappropriate, issuing a proper behaviour, and rewarding it with what they want. Given enough times, your dog will simply pick up a toy to play with you for a moment, or sit by their food bowl. The key here is to notice these signs, and engage your dog properly.
1) Impulse Control
Heading the top of our list is the number one way to prevent most dog-related holiday problems, and many other non-holiday ones, as well. It is the most under taught and undervalued skill a dog can have. Impulse Control teaches a dog to wait for permission to touch or approach anything at all, even his own food. It teaches a dog that simply because a human is not touching it does not mean that it is open for him to take or play with. Impulse control gives the dog the mindset that everything belongs to the human, and he is occasionally allowed to play with or eat a few things.
2) Leave It and Drop It
When Impulse Control fails (and every dog has their moments), the next best skill they can learn is Leave it (meaning don't touch that thing you're going for) and Drop It (Put that out of your mouth and leave it alone). These skills cover any situation where a dog is going for or has gone for something that could injure them - such as those dark chocolate candy cane bark treats, or the lights on the tree.
3) Kennel Training
In situations like dinners or parties where you just simply don't have the time or resources to monitor your dog, kennel training is an excellent way of mitigating potential disaster. If a dog is properly kennel trained, they enjoy time in their kennel, and don't try and break out or whine. This pretty much eliminates any possibility of holiday injury - but please don't leave your dog in a kennel more than a couple of hours.
4) Ex-Pen
For higher energy dogs where a kennel is just simply too much confinement in such excitement, using an ex-pen is a superb way of safely containing a dog while still leaving room to let your dog have space to play around.
5) Door Manners
The last thing you want is to have your over excited dog bowl some poor guest over at the door because they're so excited, especially if your dog injures themselves or your guest. Teaching a dog proper door manners will avoid all dog related door injuries.
6) Place/Bed Command
The Place or Bed command works like a less strict kennel, where your dog can occupy a space and move around a little, but essentially stay out from underfoot. This is good for small parties where you can keep an eye, but shouldn't be considered a means of safely containing your dog.
7) Not That, But This
A dog getting in to things they're not supposed to is an indication that they are bored, hungry, or both. The dog is trying to communicate that in some way, they feel left out, and need some form of attention, especially if they are chewing on your elf-on-the-shelf or trying to snag a shortbread. Instead of scolding and frustrating the dog that just wants some attention too, make a trade, with an appropriate correction. Our goal here is Correct, Require Behaviour, Redirect. In other words, you're going to issue a command, such as Drop It, Leave It, whathaveyou. Once your dog obeys, acknowledge that, and give them a task, such as sit, or such as paw the treat cupboard, bring a toy - anything that forces the dog to perform a behaviour and sidetrack the mind. Then, once that's done, you're going to give the dog exactly what he wants - just in a more appropriate form, such as a tug toy, game of fetch for a bit, or a meal or treat. Instead of simply correcting and frustrating your already frustrated dog, you're communicating that how they're acting is inappropriate, issuing a proper behaviour, and rewarding it with what they want. Given enough times, your dog will simply pick up a toy to play with you for a moment, or sit by their food bowl. The key here is to notice these signs, and engage your dog properly.
Tuesday, November 1, 2016
Rehabilitating Your Dog Post Halloween - Blog Thirty Nine
Many families choose to partake in Samhein, Halloween, or simply
trick or treating. Religious debates aside, many people involve their
kids - and pocket books - in one of the biggest financial holiday there
is. There is however a fast rising trend to involve pets. This is a
disaster waiting to happen. Some dogs can handle it, absolutely. We're
not saying all dogs can't handle Halloween celebrations. However, MOST
cannot, and should not - and there are many reasons why they should
simply be left at home.
1) Humanizing dogs is an epidemic that is causing bratty dogs. These animals are animals. They aren't little humans. They're not furry toddlers. They are animals. Treating a dog like a small human is not only unfair to the dog, it creates many problems that trainers all over the world have to repair.
2) Costumes are foreign, frightening, and confusing for dogs. 99.9% of the time, humans don't dress in costume. Dogs get used to specific stereotypes in order to know what a "human" is, beyond scent. Costumes are not only completely different and strange, it can also change how a human looks entirely, and cause a dog to become bewildered. Its a human, but it doesn't look like a human. This smells like my person, but it's not my human. Some dogs even react out, negatively, and with suspicion. Some dogs can even associate your scent with that frightening occurrence, causing huge mistrust and relationship damage.
3) Fireworks are terrifying and loud. Imagine what it would sound and feel like to have your neighborhood blown up. Now imagine you're a dog, who doesn't understand what's going on, be trapped inside (or outside), and be unable to get away, or identify the sounds (which are quite louder for dogs, as a side note).
4) Halloween candy which is everywhere on Halloween is deadly for dogs. Many children often drop candy. One piece is enough to seriously hurt or even kill your dog.
5) Mass crowds and large collections of people is frightening for many dogs. To make it worse, most of them are acting excited and out of character, but are also dressed strangely. Continued exposure to crowds (when not guided by a trainer) can cause a large number of behavioral issues.
6) Stressed dogs are far more likely to bite - even dogs that have never bitten before. This chance increases a lot with dogs that are more fearful, or very assertive. You wouldn't feel happy at all if your dog bit someone's child.
It is always wiser to leave your dog at home, or even better - at a kennel where there will be no fireworks or people in strange clothing.
What if my dog has a reaction to festivities?
Rehabilitating a dog from a fear reaction is difficult. It requires time, patience, and repeated, controlled exposure to the stimulation that frightened them. In the case of fireworks, loud noises, or things such as vehicle engines, jets, ect, we use YouTube! You're going to play the target sounds over and over, as low as it needs to be so your dog doesn't pee or react too strongly, and you're going to initiate some high intensity, high excitement play time. It is far easier to correct excitement at sounds than fear. You will be creeping the volume up until you can play with your dog with these sounds very loudly without fear. The same concept works with other things; if costumes set your dog off, rework this idea so that the costume can be on the floor on the other side of the room, closer, then immediately beside the dog, and finally, either on a human, or stuffed animal. Crowd fears will not be so easy to fix, however you can utilize the same exact concept by entering the core of your city or a busy park while playing with a favorite, high-energy game like tug or fetch.
What if my dog has completely shut down?
If something has set your dog off so badly that they pee, shiver and cower, or run and yelp at the sound or sight of the problem, you will need to get a trainer in right away. This type of reaction warrants an expertly timed hand, and one that knows exactly when to encourage, press/stretch the dog, and when to back off. A misstep here could cause a permanent, lifelong problem, because it could cause your dog to include you in the association. A very big, common Halloween fear is sudden reactivity at door noises, children, or people carrying bags or large hats.
What if my dog has gotten in to Halloween candy but looks fine?
Whether your dog looks fine or not, you need to see a vet immediately. Symptoms will pop up between 4-24 hours after ingestion, and they can deteriorate quickly. Bigger dogs can handle more chocolate than smaller dogs, but this does not mean that they may be okay. Be on the look out for vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness/hyperactivity, rapid breathing, muscle tension, poor coordination, fast heart rate, and seizing. Your dog will have to vomit. DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING AT HOME UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, unless you already have medication to do so on hand from a vet. Drop what you are doing as soon as you realize your dog has had chocolate, and go immediately to a vet.
My dog is now reacting aggressively to kids, costumes, bags, or something else because of festivities. What do I do?
If you are not experienced in rehabilitating reactive fear, please call a trainer. This is not something that is safe to self-correct. If however you're well versed in corrective training but simply unsure of how to correct this behaviour, typically we do slow, safe, controlled exposure, and only reward calm reactions - never any other kind. If you reward a lesser fear reaction, you're going to INCREASE the problem.
Always leave your dogs out of Halloween. Have a great day everyone!
1) Humanizing dogs is an epidemic that is causing bratty dogs. These animals are animals. They aren't little humans. They're not furry toddlers. They are animals. Treating a dog like a small human is not only unfair to the dog, it creates many problems that trainers all over the world have to repair.
2) Costumes are foreign, frightening, and confusing for dogs. 99.9% of the time, humans don't dress in costume. Dogs get used to specific stereotypes in order to know what a "human" is, beyond scent. Costumes are not only completely different and strange, it can also change how a human looks entirely, and cause a dog to become bewildered. Its a human, but it doesn't look like a human. This smells like my person, but it's not my human. Some dogs even react out, negatively, and with suspicion. Some dogs can even associate your scent with that frightening occurrence, causing huge mistrust and relationship damage.
3) Fireworks are terrifying and loud. Imagine what it would sound and feel like to have your neighborhood blown up. Now imagine you're a dog, who doesn't understand what's going on, be trapped inside (or outside), and be unable to get away, or identify the sounds (which are quite louder for dogs, as a side note).
4) Halloween candy which is everywhere on Halloween is deadly for dogs. Many children often drop candy. One piece is enough to seriously hurt or even kill your dog.
5) Mass crowds and large collections of people is frightening for many dogs. To make it worse, most of them are acting excited and out of character, but are also dressed strangely. Continued exposure to crowds (when not guided by a trainer) can cause a large number of behavioral issues.
6) Stressed dogs are far more likely to bite - even dogs that have never bitten before. This chance increases a lot with dogs that are more fearful, or very assertive. You wouldn't feel happy at all if your dog bit someone's child.
It is always wiser to leave your dog at home, or even better - at a kennel where there will be no fireworks or people in strange clothing.
What if my dog has a reaction to festivities?
Rehabilitating a dog from a fear reaction is difficult. It requires time, patience, and repeated, controlled exposure to the stimulation that frightened them. In the case of fireworks, loud noises, or things such as vehicle engines, jets, ect, we use YouTube! You're going to play the target sounds over and over, as low as it needs to be so your dog doesn't pee or react too strongly, and you're going to initiate some high intensity, high excitement play time. It is far easier to correct excitement at sounds than fear. You will be creeping the volume up until you can play with your dog with these sounds very loudly without fear. The same concept works with other things; if costumes set your dog off, rework this idea so that the costume can be on the floor on the other side of the room, closer, then immediately beside the dog, and finally, either on a human, or stuffed animal. Crowd fears will not be so easy to fix, however you can utilize the same exact concept by entering the core of your city or a busy park while playing with a favorite, high-energy game like tug or fetch.
What if my dog has completely shut down?
If something has set your dog off so badly that they pee, shiver and cower, or run and yelp at the sound or sight of the problem, you will need to get a trainer in right away. This type of reaction warrants an expertly timed hand, and one that knows exactly when to encourage, press/stretch the dog, and when to back off. A misstep here could cause a permanent, lifelong problem, because it could cause your dog to include you in the association. A very big, common Halloween fear is sudden reactivity at door noises, children, or people carrying bags or large hats.
What if my dog has gotten in to Halloween candy but looks fine?
Whether your dog looks fine or not, you need to see a vet immediately. Symptoms will pop up between 4-24 hours after ingestion, and they can deteriorate quickly. Bigger dogs can handle more chocolate than smaller dogs, but this does not mean that they may be okay. Be on the look out for vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness/hyperactivity, rapid breathing, muscle tension, poor coordination, fast heart rate, and seizing. Your dog will have to vomit. DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING AT HOME UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, unless you already have medication to do so on hand from a vet. Drop what you are doing as soon as you realize your dog has had chocolate, and go immediately to a vet.
My dog is now reacting aggressively to kids, costumes, bags, or something else because of festivities. What do I do?
If you are not experienced in rehabilitating reactive fear, please call a trainer. This is not something that is safe to self-correct. If however you're well versed in corrective training but simply unsure of how to correct this behaviour, typically we do slow, safe, controlled exposure, and only reward calm reactions - never any other kind. If you reward a lesser fear reaction, you're going to INCREASE the problem.
Always leave your dogs out of Halloween. Have a great day everyone!
Tuesday, October 11, 2016
Top Complaints - Blog Thirty Eight
Today's blog will be about our most common house calls, what the real root causes are, and a basic glance over on how to fix these issues.
5) "Anxiety"
I put this one in quotes like that because typically what people (and many trainers and breeders) mistake a few behaviours for anxiety when its not actually the case. Most cases of "Anxiety" that we get is either a case of a dog and human having a broken relationship or trust problem, or a role reversal problem. When a dog acts bonkers when a human is missing, this is a role reversal problem. When a dog reacts, avoids, or otherwise seems to be nervous or anxious about something, this is typically caused by the dog not believing the owner is going to protect them properly - broken trust. First things first, you need to get that relationship back in order!
4) Fear
Next up is common fear issues. This does overlap with the last one, but classic fear goes beyond anxiety. Fear is classically associated with cowering and hiding, but it can also represent with aggression, contact, charging, and even biting. Fear is usually caused by anxiety being allowed way too far, or some kind of trauma. The only way past fear is through it. You have to safely show your dog that whatever they are afraid of isn't going to hurt them.
3) Dog-on-Human Aggression
When a dog believes humans are a threat, it can be difficult to solve. Either stemming from dominance or fear, a dog being aggressive towards a human usually stems from a dog either not believing their owner can protect them, or that it is their job to do the protecting. Usually, it's caused by the owner having social anxiety, fear of men or women, or unconsciously protecting a dog from certain people. It can also stem from abuse, or maltreatment. Just like with fear, the only way to solve this one is through safe exposure and behaviour management.
2) Dog-on-dog Aggression
Whether it's because of bad socialization, a trauma, or other relationship-based problems, dog on dog aggression is normally caused by inexperienced breeders or owners that do not address the early signs or do not properly introduce a dog to other dogs. It can also be due to a dog spending too long in a kennel or rescue, or simply being a street animal. No matter the case, it is best for everyone involved to train the dog in question to safely IGNORE other animals.
1) Hyper!
Our number one complaint is excitability, hyperness, and general too much energy for the owners to handle. Typically, we hear a variation of "We walk him 3 HOURS every day, and run him in the park, I just don't understand! My dog is CRAZY!" Would it surprise you to know that the root cause of this type of problem isn't usually an absence of physical exercise, but rather a lack or complete absence of mental exercise? Dogs need to think and learn just as much as children do, if not more. If you're doing the same paths, the same runs, the same games - your dog is telling you he is BORED! Dogs need new, exciting things to learn and do. You should always be spending time every day teaching your dog new games and commands!
5) "Anxiety"
I put this one in quotes like that because typically what people (and many trainers and breeders) mistake a few behaviours for anxiety when its not actually the case. Most cases of "Anxiety" that we get is either a case of a dog and human having a broken relationship or trust problem, or a role reversal problem. When a dog acts bonkers when a human is missing, this is a role reversal problem. When a dog reacts, avoids, or otherwise seems to be nervous or anxious about something, this is typically caused by the dog not believing the owner is going to protect them properly - broken trust. First things first, you need to get that relationship back in order!
4) Fear
Next up is common fear issues. This does overlap with the last one, but classic fear goes beyond anxiety. Fear is classically associated with cowering and hiding, but it can also represent with aggression, contact, charging, and even biting. Fear is usually caused by anxiety being allowed way too far, or some kind of trauma. The only way past fear is through it. You have to safely show your dog that whatever they are afraid of isn't going to hurt them.
3) Dog-on-Human Aggression
When a dog believes humans are a threat, it can be difficult to solve. Either stemming from dominance or fear, a dog being aggressive towards a human usually stems from a dog either not believing their owner can protect them, or that it is their job to do the protecting. Usually, it's caused by the owner having social anxiety, fear of men or women, or unconsciously protecting a dog from certain people. It can also stem from abuse, or maltreatment. Just like with fear, the only way to solve this one is through safe exposure and behaviour management.
2) Dog-on-dog Aggression
Whether it's because of bad socialization, a trauma, or other relationship-based problems, dog on dog aggression is normally caused by inexperienced breeders or owners that do not address the early signs or do not properly introduce a dog to other dogs. It can also be due to a dog spending too long in a kennel or rescue, or simply being a street animal. No matter the case, it is best for everyone involved to train the dog in question to safely IGNORE other animals.
1) Hyper!
Our number one complaint is excitability, hyperness, and general too much energy for the owners to handle. Typically, we hear a variation of "We walk him 3 HOURS every day, and run him in the park, I just don't understand! My dog is CRAZY!" Would it surprise you to know that the root cause of this type of problem isn't usually an absence of physical exercise, but rather a lack or complete absence of mental exercise? Dogs need to think and learn just as much as children do, if not more. If you're doing the same paths, the same runs, the same games - your dog is telling you he is BORED! Dogs need new, exciting things to learn and do. You should always be spending time every day teaching your dog new games and commands!
Saturday, September 10, 2016
Decoding Your Dog's Bark - Blog Thirty Seven
Today, we're going to go over some of the different barks (and other sounds!) your dog could make, and what they mean. Learning your dog's "language" is a very important step in mastering training, especially when some sounds are the biggest clue after body language that your dog can give you. I will be going over universal sounds - the ones that are true no matter the breed. In some cases, there are sounds that specific types of dogs make - like the Beagle howl, or the Husky teeth chatter - these are not included in today's blog.
High or Medium Pitched Fast Bark
This bark is really common on dogs at fence lines, or the shyer personalities at door sounds, or strangers. In essence, this kind of bark highlights the level of awareness, or in other words, the depth and type of anxiety. A medium pitch, fast bark of a collection of five or so barks is a beginning awareness of something causing fear or anxiety. It is a way of your dog saying "Hey, pay attention; I'm not so sure about this." It's a marker that you need to address and correct this fear behaviour, then force your dog to investigate and acclimatize to whatever is causing the unease.
Rapid, Fast, High Pitched Bark, UnrelentingWhen this bark appears, it's sounding the alarm. This is a full fear bark, where the dog is just a few hairs shy of a full blown panic. It is basically your dog going "OH MY GOD PAY ATTENTION HELP HELP HELP". It is typically associated with fear, or high level unstable fear-dominance. It is a way for your dog to order you to deal with whatever the stimulation is - typically strangers, be they human, or dog. Instead of you dealing with the stimulation, leash up your dog, offer proper corrections, and don't relent.
Low, Deep, and Throaty Bark, One or Two
This bark is a warning - one that says "Stop", or "Pay Attention", but in a more authoritative way. Whether that is from assertiveness, dominance, threat response, or simply confidence depends on the body language. Mostly, this kind of bark is a bluff, and isn't indicative of a bite. If your dog is simply drawing your attention to something or is being dominant is up to you (or your trainer...), but in most cases, you'll need to make sure your dog understands they're to give up their attention and let you handle it. If they are barking out of dominance or assertiveness, they will need correcting and redirecting.
Low, Deep, and Throaty Bark, Unrelenting
This is warning that has become a threat. The dog sees whatever it is barking at as a clear and decisive threat, and they are warning action. This is a definite "correct immediately", as it's never coming from a stable, balanced dog. This is a sign your dog needs major intervention.
Medium Pitch Bark
Whether it is once or thirty times, a medium pitch bark usually means happy, energetic, excited, or generally interested in what's going on. Usually, a medium pitch bark that's rather incessant is in relation to play, fun, or interaction. A prime example of this is a dog barking at you while you're preparing to throw his ball; that's "THROW THE BALL THROW THE BALL THROW THE BALL!!!!!!" its usually safe and healthy, just a sign of their energy level.
Soft Growl With Thinner Pupils And Forward Ears
This is a play growl or a "love" growl! Not all growls are automatically negative. A growl like this, especially while playing competitive games like tug, are a good thing! It's a way of your dog saying, "Oooooh yeah!" Even better are the short growls that sounds like "Hawr, hawr!" those are a very gentle and very affectionate growl!"
Soft Growl With No Apparent Body Language
This is a funny one, and often people think its frustration. In a sort, it is - its more of a harumph, or a human groan. "Ugh." Imagine what you'd say when six toddlers want to play with you, or when you just sat and got comfortable and have to pee. Its really harmless and is a simple expression of your dog just not wanting to do whatever it is.
Low, Steady Growl Accompanied By Thick Pupils, But Ears Front
This is an alert warning. Your dog is saying "I really don't like this," or "I don't appreciate that". Its not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean you should evaluate the situation. Is your dog growling out of frustration? Is he voicing fear or dominance at a stranger? Is he growling at a prey animal, or a dangerous predator?
Low, Steady Growl Accompanied By Thick Pupils, Ears Back
This is past a warning and a perception that you or your dog is in danger. In most cases, this requires fast and immediate response, because as far as your dog is concerned, the threat is real, and they will protect themselves and you.
Dead Silence, Following Barking, Growling, Accompanied By Fear Or Dominance Postures
A lack of sound can be a warning too - a really bad one. Before a dog strikes, they usually stop making sounds. In most cases, unless something is addressed, this has moved past the threat of a strike, and into a promise. Normally, lots of barking or growling does precede an attack, however, it rarely conjoins with it. A dog that's making sound cannot effectively bite or latch on.
Laughing
Yes, dogs laugh! It sounds a lot like a funny panting sound, but it's laughter. Its also usually for the same reasons; something is funny! This sound can also be one of comradery, meaning your dog is feeling close to you.
High or Medium Pitched Fast Bark
This bark is really common on dogs at fence lines, or the shyer personalities at door sounds, or strangers. In essence, this kind of bark highlights the level of awareness, or in other words, the depth and type of anxiety. A medium pitch, fast bark of a collection of five or so barks is a beginning awareness of something causing fear or anxiety. It is a way of your dog saying "Hey, pay attention; I'm not so sure about this." It's a marker that you need to address and correct this fear behaviour, then force your dog to investigate and acclimatize to whatever is causing the unease.
Rapid, Fast, High Pitched Bark, UnrelentingWhen this bark appears, it's sounding the alarm. This is a full fear bark, where the dog is just a few hairs shy of a full blown panic. It is basically your dog going "OH MY GOD PAY ATTENTION HELP HELP HELP". It is typically associated with fear, or high level unstable fear-dominance. It is a way for your dog to order you to deal with whatever the stimulation is - typically strangers, be they human, or dog. Instead of you dealing with the stimulation, leash up your dog, offer proper corrections, and don't relent.
Low, Deep, and Throaty Bark, One or Two
This bark is a warning - one that says "Stop", or "Pay Attention", but in a more authoritative way. Whether that is from assertiveness, dominance, threat response, or simply confidence depends on the body language. Mostly, this kind of bark is a bluff, and isn't indicative of a bite. If your dog is simply drawing your attention to something or is being dominant is up to you (or your trainer...), but in most cases, you'll need to make sure your dog understands they're to give up their attention and let you handle it. If they are barking out of dominance or assertiveness, they will need correcting and redirecting.
Low, Deep, and Throaty Bark, Unrelenting
This is warning that has become a threat. The dog sees whatever it is barking at as a clear and decisive threat, and they are warning action. This is a definite "correct immediately", as it's never coming from a stable, balanced dog. This is a sign your dog needs major intervention.
Medium Pitch Bark
Whether it is once or thirty times, a medium pitch bark usually means happy, energetic, excited, or generally interested in what's going on. Usually, a medium pitch bark that's rather incessant is in relation to play, fun, or interaction. A prime example of this is a dog barking at you while you're preparing to throw his ball; that's "THROW THE BALL THROW THE BALL THROW THE BALL!!!!!!" its usually safe and healthy, just a sign of their energy level.
Soft Growl With Thinner Pupils And Forward Ears
This is a play growl or a "love" growl! Not all growls are automatically negative. A growl like this, especially while playing competitive games like tug, are a good thing! It's a way of your dog saying, "Oooooh yeah!" Even better are the short growls that sounds like "Hawr, hawr!" those are a very gentle and very affectionate growl!"
Soft Growl With No Apparent Body Language
This is a funny one, and often people think its frustration. In a sort, it is - its more of a harumph, or a human groan. "Ugh." Imagine what you'd say when six toddlers want to play with you, or when you just sat and got comfortable and have to pee. Its really harmless and is a simple expression of your dog just not wanting to do whatever it is.
Low, Steady Growl Accompanied By Thick Pupils, But Ears Front
This is an alert warning. Your dog is saying "I really don't like this," or "I don't appreciate that". Its not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean you should evaluate the situation. Is your dog growling out of frustration? Is he voicing fear or dominance at a stranger? Is he growling at a prey animal, or a dangerous predator?
Low, Steady Growl Accompanied By Thick Pupils, Ears Back
This is past a warning and a perception that you or your dog is in danger. In most cases, this requires fast and immediate response, because as far as your dog is concerned, the threat is real, and they will protect themselves and you.
Dead Silence, Following Barking, Growling, Accompanied By Fear Or Dominance Postures
A lack of sound can be a warning too - a really bad one. Before a dog strikes, they usually stop making sounds. In most cases, unless something is addressed, this has moved past the threat of a strike, and into a promise. Normally, lots of barking or growling does precede an attack, however, it rarely conjoins with it. A dog that's making sound cannot effectively bite or latch on.
Laughing
Yes, dogs laugh! It sounds a lot like a funny panting sound, but it's laughter. Its also usually for the same reasons; something is funny! This sound can also be one of comradery, meaning your dog is feeling close to you.
Wednesday, August 10, 2016
Common Definitions - Blog Thirty Six
Today's blog is all the common words we or other trainers might use, and the context in which we personally use them! Enjoy!
Training
– A term used for teaching basic skills to a dog, such as sit,
down, stand, drop, out, heel, ect. It is expressly used to refer to
polite command responses.
Behavioural Modifications – A term used for changing unwanted behaviours, or teaching a new behaviour instead of another, such as social rules, or changing a growling behaviour into a respectful silence. It can also refer to halting behaviour completely in cases of need, such as stopping a dog from chewing on shoes and offering something appropriate to chew on instead. No behaviour should ever be fully stopped, as this is stressful and abusive to the animal.
Balanced – A term used for energy, behaviour, or body language that is centered, in the middle, and not overly emotional. Balance is calm, and not angry, hyper, frustrated, excited, sad, or scared. Happiness is also balanced; excitement is not. Balance must be exhibited from the human first, and then the dog.
Accurate Leadership – A term used for not missing training or behavioural queues, and knowing when it is appropriate to ignore, correct, directly address, or cease a behaviour. A missed step will cause issues with a Shepherd.
Consistent Leadership – A term used for being the same, no matter what, and expecting the same, no matter what. No matter who is around, what is happening, what excuses a human can come up with, both human and dog are expected to be the same in all situations – even if the pope came over for tea, you're at a new park, or around an unstable energy.
Pet Dog – A term used for an animal that may or may not understand basic commands, and has no real job or duty – animals that are not expected to do complicated tasks daily.
Drive/In Drive – A state of mind where the dog is solely focused on either the human in control, or the task at hand. A dog in drive would not even react if a bunny coated in steak hopped past. A dog in drive also will ignore everything else until broken out of drive – including weather, other people/animals, or situations. It is important that a dog exercise being in and out of drive in all new situations and areas to prevent unwanted behaviours.
Primal – To be primal is to be basic, back to one's roots, and to be wild. In the case of humans, primal would be hunting, sex, mother/father instincts, ect. For dogs, it is anything that brings them back to their ancestral wolf roots – all dogs have this need. It is however a double edged sword; an inexperienced owner should never put a dog into Primal Drive, as they can very quickly mess up a dog's behaviour. Shepherds have a biological need for regular primal activities, and primal drive.
Mud-Blood – The practice of breeding a dog with unsatisfactory genetics in order to produce puppies quickly – it is most common in the fast-growing popular species, such as Malamutes, German Shepherds, Retrievers, Huskies, and other sporting dogs. In the case of Northern Breeds like Malamutes and Huskies, they are most often bred with unhealthy parents, and usually allowed to breed with Wolves. It is now next to impossible to find the above breeds without some percentage of Wolf.
Canine Psychology – The study and understanding of how dogs communicate with other dogs, animals, and humans, how they think, feel, and process, and understanding that what is good for a human is not always what is good for a dog. It is understanding the fundamentals of the needs and behaviours of a dog and why they are what they are.
Circadian Rhythm – The deeply ingrained need to be awake with the sun and asleep with the moon – it is a very basic and primal need of all dayurnal animals, of which dogs are, as well as humans. The circadian rhythm is so critical that when it is ignored, it is highly damaging to the brain and body, often resulting in sickness, cancer, and even death.
Structured Walks – The act of walking with a human, side by side, fast paced, and travelling forward, ignoring passersby, not peeing on every bush, not sniffing every spot, not pooping on every patch, and performing respectful behaviours such as sitting to allow other people to pass by, sitting at crosswalks before moving on, and politely ignoring other dogs. The structured walk is on leash at all times, not allowed to roam where the dog pleases, and not permitted to leave the side of the human. Relieving oneself is a reward for good behaviour, not a right of the walk itself.
Gas Tank – Slang term for a dog's ability to convert food into energy and the inability to sleep it off. Unlike humans, dogs don't have the ability to burn off energy.
Reset Overnight – When a human sleeps, our bodies naturally balance out – we can wake up with energy if we were tired, and we can wake up rested and relaxed if we went to bed with a little too much energy. Dogs lack this ability, and sleep only because of genetic need, and to repair injury or sickness. If dogs are fed and not exhausted before bed, they wake up in that exact state, and because they were inactive all night, they become restless and their energy restocks as they relax – so they wake up absolutely crazy excited.
High Energy – A term used for a dog that recovers energy very fast when resting, has the most energy stores compared to other breeds, and has more energy overall to burn. If it's not burned off, it carries over to the next day, and adds on to the rest of the energy they rebuild overnight.
High Intensity Physical Exercise – A type of exercise that is fast, hard, high paced, and requires great amounts of energy – like running, fetch, swimming, bite training, protection training, security training, ect.
Human-Paced Walking – The average walking pace of a human. This speed will not drain the energy out of most dogs, as they are much faster walkers than humans, and must slow down to lumber along side us. Dogs need faster speeds to burn energy. These types of walks should be reserved as just for fun and should not be considered beneficial to Mars whatsoever.
Mental Stimulation – Dogs need to exercise their brains as well as their muscles, and this is accomplished by making them think – training, structured walking, learning something new, and many other activities accomplish this. Basic exercise will not.
Primal Activities – Things that encourage Wolf-like behaviours. Raw meats, bones, food time, exercise, being in drive, and practicing the hunt-and-kill (fetch, tug, ball play, toys, ect) all encourage primal drive.
Exercise Resistance – A term used when a dog is exercised too much at once, and becomes suspicous or wary of going outside or engaging in exercise because of an injury, soreness, or going too far past their exhaustion point.
Out and other commands – All commands should be different – if out is used to get a toy out of the mouth, you cannot use out to go outside, out of a room, or out of the crate.
Nothing For Free – The dog must earn everything, right down to his basic needs. He must accurately perform tasks such as sit/stay before getting what they need. This keeps respect a consistent daily element so that Mars doesn't act as if things automatically belong to him.
Level of Respect – Respect should be expected every day, and to such a level that you know nothing is going to change this dog. Things like walking looseleash beside his human, eating when it is food time and not when he decides to, not playing aggressively with his toys, not jumping on people – these things should be expected every day.
Disrespectful Walking – The act of allowing a dog to greet everyone on a walk, pee on everything, poop wherever he pleases, scratch the ground in dominance, wander around and sniffing everything, walking off leash or ahead of the human, running off leash away from the human, ect.
Positions of Power – The little things that communicate to a dog that THEY are in control, such as eating when they please, sitting on human furniture, sleeping with a human in their bed, eating too much food, getting things when they want it – and more.
Solitary Animals – Some select breeds do fine alone, most of them are pack animals and do not do well alone and must be trained to do so.
Left Alone – Leaving a dog to his own devices loose in the house is a massive no-no. This can result in panic and the dog destroying the house (human error, not the dog's fault), and thinking you've vanished. The dog will never understand that you are coming back and must be trained to be alone, and never for more than a couple hours. Dogs left alone think they have no more rules because the human is gone.
Different Types of Exercise – Dogs need multiple kinds of exercise, not just running. They have a need to travel – the need to move along and find new places to explore. They have a need to hunt or gather – the need to bring something home to eat – this can be accomplished with fetch and a weighted backpack. They have a need to burn energy – to run, swim, jump around, play, and all around just burn off energy. They have a need to learn, and understand new things – this can be accomplished by always teaching something new. They have a need to think, and exercise their brains – this can be accomplished also by teaching new things, and making them think. They have a need to burn primal energy, which must be done with a human that understands how far is too far. Finally, they have a need to releave frustration, usually done on toys.
Job – Some breeds need a job, or a duty to complete every day – if their breed has this need, is is absolutely critical that they have a job – and I don't mean fetch, barking at stray wild animals, or other such activities. Working class dogs like the German Shepherd need to be given a job like humans need love. Appropriate jobs for Mars would be bite training, protection work, security work (protecting the home when its empty), bringing heavy items back from a walk, and many other skills that are not ordinary work.
Behavioural Modifications – A term used for changing unwanted behaviours, or teaching a new behaviour instead of another, such as social rules, or changing a growling behaviour into a respectful silence. It can also refer to halting behaviour completely in cases of need, such as stopping a dog from chewing on shoes and offering something appropriate to chew on instead. No behaviour should ever be fully stopped, as this is stressful and abusive to the animal.
Balanced – A term used for energy, behaviour, or body language that is centered, in the middle, and not overly emotional. Balance is calm, and not angry, hyper, frustrated, excited, sad, or scared. Happiness is also balanced; excitement is not. Balance must be exhibited from the human first, and then the dog.
Accurate Leadership – A term used for not missing training or behavioural queues, and knowing when it is appropriate to ignore, correct, directly address, or cease a behaviour. A missed step will cause issues with a Shepherd.
Consistent Leadership – A term used for being the same, no matter what, and expecting the same, no matter what. No matter who is around, what is happening, what excuses a human can come up with, both human and dog are expected to be the same in all situations – even if the pope came over for tea, you're at a new park, or around an unstable energy.
Pet Dog – A term used for an animal that may or may not understand basic commands, and has no real job or duty – animals that are not expected to do complicated tasks daily.
Drive/In Drive – A state of mind where the dog is solely focused on either the human in control, or the task at hand. A dog in drive would not even react if a bunny coated in steak hopped past. A dog in drive also will ignore everything else until broken out of drive – including weather, other people/animals, or situations. It is important that a dog exercise being in and out of drive in all new situations and areas to prevent unwanted behaviours.
Primal – To be primal is to be basic, back to one's roots, and to be wild. In the case of humans, primal would be hunting, sex, mother/father instincts, ect. For dogs, it is anything that brings them back to their ancestral wolf roots – all dogs have this need. It is however a double edged sword; an inexperienced owner should never put a dog into Primal Drive, as they can very quickly mess up a dog's behaviour. Shepherds have a biological need for regular primal activities, and primal drive.
Mud-Blood – The practice of breeding a dog with unsatisfactory genetics in order to produce puppies quickly – it is most common in the fast-growing popular species, such as Malamutes, German Shepherds, Retrievers, Huskies, and other sporting dogs. In the case of Northern Breeds like Malamutes and Huskies, they are most often bred with unhealthy parents, and usually allowed to breed with Wolves. It is now next to impossible to find the above breeds without some percentage of Wolf.
Canine Psychology – The study and understanding of how dogs communicate with other dogs, animals, and humans, how they think, feel, and process, and understanding that what is good for a human is not always what is good for a dog. It is understanding the fundamentals of the needs and behaviours of a dog and why they are what they are.
Circadian Rhythm – The deeply ingrained need to be awake with the sun and asleep with the moon – it is a very basic and primal need of all dayurnal animals, of which dogs are, as well as humans. The circadian rhythm is so critical that when it is ignored, it is highly damaging to the brain and body, often resulting in sickness, cancer, and even death.
Structured Walks – The act of walking with a human, side by side, fast paced, and travelling forward, ignoring passersby, not peeing on every bush, not sniffing every spot, not pooping on every patch, and performing respectful behaviours such as sitting to allow other people to pass by, sitting at crosswalks before moving on, and politely ignoring other dogs. The structured walk is on leash at all times, not allowed to roam where the dog pleases, and not permitted to leave the side of the human. Relieving oneself is a reward for good behaviour, not a right of the walk itself.
Gas Tank – Slang term for a dog's ability to convert food into energy and the inability to sleep it off. Unlike humans, dogs don't have the ability to burn off energy.
Reset Overnight – When a human sleeps, our bodies naturally balance out – we can wake up with energy if we were tired, and we can wake up rested and relaxed if we went to bed with a little too much energy. Dogs lack this ability, and sleep only because of genetic need, and to repair injury or sickness. If dogs are fed and not exhausted before bed, they wake up in that exact state, and because they were inactive all night, they become restless and their energy restocks as they relax – so they wake up absolutely crazy excited.
High Energy – A term used for a dog that recovers energy very fast when resting, has the most energy stores compared to other breeds, and has more energy overall to burn. If it's not burned off, it carries over to the next day, and adds on to the rest of the energy they rebuild overnight.
High Intensity Physical Exercise – A type of exercise that is fast, hard, high paced, and requires great amounts of energy – like running, fetch, swimming, bite training, protection training, security training, ect.
Human-Paced Walking – The average walking pace of a human. This speed will not drain the energy out of most dogs, as they are much faster walkers than humans, and must slow down to lumber along side us. Dogs need faster speeds to burn energy. These types of walks should be reserved as just for fun and should not be considered beneficial to Mars whatsoever.
Mental Stimulation – Dogs need to exercise their brains as well as their muscles, and this is accomplished by making them think – training, structured walking, learning something new, and many other activities accomplish this. Basic exercise will not.
Primal Activities – Things that encourage Wolf-like behaviours. Raw meats, bones, food time, exercise, being in drive, and practicing the hunt-and-kill (fetch, tug, ball play, toys, ect) all encourage primal drive.
Exercise Resistance – A term used when a dog is exercised too much at once, and becomes suspicous or wary of going outside or engaging in exercise because of an injury, soreness, or going too far past their exhaustion point.
Out and other commands – All commands should be different – if out is used to get a toy out of the mouth, you cannot use out to go outside, out of a room, or out of the crate.
Nothing For Free – The dog must earn everything, right down to his basic needs. He must accurately perform tasks such as sit/stay before getting what they need. This keeps respect a consistent daily element so that Mars doesn't act as if things automatically belong to him.
Level of Respect – Respect should be expected every day, and to such a level that you know nothing is going to change this dog. Things like walking looseleash beside his human, eating when it is food time and not when he decides to, not playing aggressively with his toys, not jumping on people – these things should be expected every day.
Disrespectful Walking – The act of allowing a dog to greet everyone on a walk, pee on everything, poop wherever he pleases, scratch the ground in dominance, wander around and sniffing everything, walking off leash or ahead of the human, running off leash away from the human, ect.
Positions of Power – The little things that communicate to a dog that THEY are in control, such as eating when they please, sitting on human furniture, sleeping with a human in their bed, eating too much food, getting things when they want it – and more.
Solitary Animals – Some select breeds do fine alone, most of them are pack animals and do not do well alone and must be trained to do so.
Left Alone – Leaving a dog to his own devices loose in the house is a massive no-no. This can result in panic and the dog destroying the house (human error, not the dog's fault), and thinking you've vanished. The dog will never understand that you are coming back and must be trained to be alone, and never for more than a couple hours. Dogs left alone think they have no more rules because the human is gone.
Different Types of Exercise – Dogs need multiple kinds of exercise, not just running. They have a need to travel – the need to move along and find new places to explore. They have a need to hunt or gather – the need to bring something home to eat – this can be accomplished with fetch and a weighted backpack. They have a need to burn energy – to run, swim, jump around, play, and all around just burn off energy. They have a need to learn, and understand new things – this can be accomplished by always teaching something new. They have a need to think, and exercise their brains – this can be accomplished also by teaching new things, and making them think. They have a need to burn primal energy, which must be done with a human that understands how far is too far. Finally, they have a need to releave frustration, usually done on toys.
Job – Some breeds need a job, or a duty to complete every day – if their breed has this need, is is absolutely critical that they have a job – and I don't mean fetch, barking at stray wild animals, or other such activities. Working class dogs like the German Shepherd need to be given a job like humans need love. Appropriate jobs for Mars would be bite training, protection work, security work (protecting the home when its empty), bringing heavy items back from a walk, and many other skills that are not ordinary work.
Tuesday, July 26, 2016
Picking The Right Dog For Your Home - Blog Thirty Five
Before you add a dog to the family, the single most important decision you can make as a dog owner is what breed you're selecting. If people honestly looked at breeds that matched their lifestyle and personality, most dog trainers would be out of work. A large majority (at least two thirds) of issues that dog owners are facing today are due to mismatched personalities, energy levels, or skill levels. There is nothing wrong with admitting a dog is "too much dog" for you - or even that its "not enough dog". I cannot tell you the number of times a client or family has had the completely wrong dog for their lifestyle; usually, it's because of pity, or humanitarian gains such as "They were going to put him down" or "She was just too cute to leave!". These kinds of desires are normal and okay, as long as the dog matches up with you. We had one elderly client who had rescued a high-energy, poorly trained, mildly defensive breed that needed a stern, active, guiding human, and they continually have a hard time managing this dog. This is a prime example of what I'm talking about. Another example is a family who has adopted a shih tsu - a breed designed to attach to and protect ONE human and not tolerate the rest. We've even seen cases of young, hard-working and never home humans that picked very active, out-all-day breeds. Today's blog is all about how to select the right dog for your home - and what to avoid in certain circumstances.
Consider Space Restrictions
While this might sound like a "don't buy big dogs for small apartments", its actually not! Even in 600 square feet, a large dog can fit. Lazier breeds are great for this scenario, because they are not incredibly active and tend to only take as much space as they need. Great Danes for instance are excellent at curling up into surprisingly small spaces, and bullmastiffs tend to prefer laying where humans don't walk anyway. What I mean is, in 600 square feet, a dog like a blue heeler or a jack russel is absolutely out of the question, unless you're incredibly active. Active dogs need space to run, play, and feel happy. When they are stuck in a small area all day, they get stir crazy, just like humans do if they're cooped up inside for too long. Rather than avoid large breeds for small spaces. Avoid higher energy dogs in small spaces, unless you're prepared to be really active.
Consider Dog Energy Level vs Your Own
If you work a nine to five, then have study group or women's group or time with friends, then you're not going to want a a dog that needs 4-6 hours of exercise and training every day, and most certainly not a dog that needs that amount of mental stimulation on top of that. Dogs like border collies, sheperds, or poodles are not reasonable for your lifestyle. You're going to want a lazy, reclusive dog breed that is fine by itself for a while, such as a dane or mastiff. However, if you're the kind to work a bit and then spend most of your free time outdoors doing things, a medium energy dog like a lab or retriever is perfect. Most people think "I get out a few hours every day; I can handle a higher energy dog! They won't need more exercise." when that's usually vastly underestimated. Even a lab needs 4 hours of exercise plus mental stimulation on top of that. Astounding, isn't it? However, if you work outside and can bring your dog, and need a dog that can adapt to high energy demands, absolutely get that high energy dog! This is one of the most important considerations for getting a dog. I often cringe when I see new moms or young families adopting medium energy dogs like labs, or shepherds. They just simply cannot properly exercise the dogs, and often wind up with very frustrating symptoms of underexercising, like destruction, aggression, or dominance. If you're a naturally inactive person, that lab is going to drive you insane.
Consider Breed Personality
After you have a list of appropriately sized and energy-matched dogs, you need have to to consider personality, or breed-need. You might have a great, active family, and can handle the energy needs of a heeler - but the catch is, can you handle a breed that constantly needs to control, organize, chase, and is smarter on average than your five year old? Doesn't sound so nice anymore, huh? What if we consider the fact that heelers can get obsessive and destructive if they're bored? Herding your cats or kids until they attack or cry? Or, you're a little on the inactive side, and picked a bulldog because you have a really small home. Are you prepared for more stubbornness than a hormonal teenage boy? A dog that will look at you with an expression that says "No way, lady! YOU DO IT."? A dog that will hoover your food if you blink too long, no matter how good you teach impulse control? A dog that will literally stop walking if they've had enough, whether you're in the middle of a crosswalk or not? Doesn't sound so easy anymore does it? Or, you're a well adjusted, active family, with diverse personalities, and you've selected a beautiful, medium energy, gentle staffordshire terrier. It's great with your kids as a puppy, listens with little sternness, and is food, toy, and praise motivated. Super easy to train and maintain. Perfect, right? When that staffy gets older though, you notice she's taking more and more exception to people buy the fence. People and friends come over, and she barks at them. Then, once these people are inside and part of your home, this excited, psycho-jumpy dog emerges, and knocks over your friend's toddler. She bounces all over the furniture, and you just went for a walk. She'll obey a sit, but break it right away and knock over a purse, vase, and coffee mug. Children come over? Oh god, she'll never stop. This dog doesn't sound so great anymore, does she? Take her for a walk, and the first dog she sees, she really doesn't like. The human has a hat, and it's game over. She doesn't attack, but she growls and looks big. She get frustrated and scared, and she doesn't listen any more. The second dog, they are best friends! Bouncing, yipping, nipping! You can't call her off. You stopped existing. Narry a ball or a treat works any more. You need to get going, but your dog isn't done playing. Sound frustrating? These are all examples (while a little dramatic) are prime examples of when everything but personality is matching up. Without considering how your dog needs to live, you're in for a hard time.
Consider Training Needs
Finally, after all the above, you need to consider how easy, or hard, a dog is to train. Everything else might line up perfectly, but if you need a dog that listens and doesn't challenge you every day, then one breed might need to come off your list. Often, the smarter the dog, the easier they are to teach new skills, but the HARDER it is to maintain that training - the reason being is smarter dogs need to do more with their minds to be happy, and they stop listening to you if they're not being fulfilled. Smarter dogs also know exactly what they can and cannot get away with - and will run with it. Dimmer dogs take a lot longer to learn a new skill, but its a lot easier to maintain those behaviours, because they don't need to be as fulfilled mentally. They do however have a hard time learning and remembering new behaviours, and are difficult to inspire. All dogs also have a level of "pack drive", or the desire to listen and make you happy. Dogs like German Shepherds have a very high pack drive and are really easy to inspire; however, dogs like poodles or bulldogs could really care less what you want or how to make you happy. These considerations are important in selecting a dog as well. If you don't like to be challenged by a dog, don't select a dimmer breed with low pack drive (like a bulldog). If you don't like a dog deciding a behaviour is boring and not wanting to do it anymore, don't select an intelligent breed (like an Australian shepherd). If you get frustrated with a dog that sees right through you and seems to laugh when you're not invested in a training session, don't select an intelligent dog with a low pack drive (like a poodle). If you can't handle a dog that does clearly know behaviours and does thirty other things instead, don't select a breed with high pack drive but low intelligence (like a rottweiler or pit bull).
Hopefully this has given you some insights on selecting your Ideal Companion!
Consider Space Restrictions
While this might sound like a "don't buy big dogs for small apartments", its actually not! Even in 600 square feet, a large dog can fit. Lazier breeds are great for this scenario, because they are not incredibly active and tend to only take as much space as they need. Great Danes for instance are excellent at curling up into surprisingly small spaces, and bullmastiffs tend to prefer laying where humans don't walk anyway. What I mean is, in 600 square feet, a dog like a blue heeler or a jack russel is absolutely out of the question, unless you're incredibly active. Active dogs need space to run, play, and feel happy. When they are stuck in a small area all day, they get stir crazy, just like humans do if they're cooped up inside for too long. Rather than avoid large breeds for small spaces. Avoid higher energy dogs in small spaces, unless you're prepared to be really active.
Consider Dog Energy Level vs Your Own
If you work a nine to five, then have study group or women's group or time with friends, then you're not going to want a a dog that needs 4-6 hours of exercise and training every day, and most certainly not a dog that needs that amount of mental stimulation on top of that. Dogs like border collies, sheperds, or poodles are not reasonable for your lifestyle. You're going to want a lazy, reclusive dog breed that is fine by itself for a while, such as a dane or mastiff. However, if you're the kind to work a bit and then spend most of your free time outdoors doing things, a medium energy dog like a lab or retriever is perfect. Most people think "I get out a few hours every day; I can handle a higher energy dog! They won't need more exercise." when that's usually vastly underestimated. Even a lab needs 4 hours of exercise plus mental stimulation on top of that. Astounding, isn't it? However, if you work outside and can bring your dog, and need a dog that can adapt to high energy demands, absolutely get that high energy dog! This is one of the most important considerations for getting a dog. I often cringe when I see new moms or young families adopting medium energy dogs like labs, or shepherds. They just simply cannot properly exercise the dogs, and often wind up with very frustrating symptoms of underexercising, like destruction, aggression, or dominance. If you're a naturally inactive person, that lab is going to drive you insane.
Consider Breed Personality
After you have a list of appropriately sized and energy-matched dogs, you need have to to consider personality, or breed-need. You might have a great, active family, and can handle the energy needs of a heeler - but the catch is, can you handle a breed that constantly needs to control, organize, chase, and is smarter on average than your five year old? Doesn't sound so nice anymore, huh? What if we consider the fact that heelers can get obsessive and destructive if they're bored? Herding your cats or kids until they attack or cry? Or, you're a little on the inactive side, and picked a bulldog because you have a really small home. Are you prepared for more stubbornness than a hormonal teenage boy? A dog that will look at you with an expression that says "No way, lady! YOU DO IT."? A dog that will hoover your food if you blink too long, no matter how good you teach impulse control? A dog that will literally stop walking if they've had enough, whether you're in the middle of a crosswalk or not? Doesn't sound so easy anymore does it? Or, you're a well adjusted, active family, with diverse personalities, and you've selected a beautiful, medium energy, gentle staffordshire terrier. It's great with your kids as a puppy, listens with little sternness, and is food, toy, and praise motivated. Super easy to train and maintain. Perfect, right? When that staffy gets older though, you notice she's taking more and more exception to people buy the fence. People and friends come over, and she barks at them. Then, once these people are inside and part of your home, this excited, psycho-jumpy dog emerges, and knocks over your friend's toddler. She bounces all over the furniture, and you just went for a walk. She'll obey a sit, but break it right away and knock over a purse, vase, and coffee mug. Children come over? Oh god, she'll never stop. This dog doesn't sound so great anymore, does she? Take her for a walk, and the first dog she sees, she really doesn't like. The human has a hat, and it's game over. She doesn't attack, but she growls and looks big. She get frustrated and scared, and she doesn't listen any more. The second dog, they are best friends! Bouncing, yipping, nipping! You can't call her off. You stopped existing. Narry a ball or a treat works any more. You need to get going, but your dog isn't done playing. Sound frustrating? These are all examples (while a little dramatic) are prime examples of when everything but personality is matching up. Without considering how your dog needs to live, you're in for a hard time.
Consider Training Needs
Finally, after all the above, you need to consider how easy, or hard, a dog is to train. Everything else might line up perfectly, but if you need a dog that listens and doesn't challenge you every day, then one breed might need to come off your list. Often, the smarter the dog, the easier they are to teach new skills, but the HARDER it is to maintain that training - the reason being is smarter dogs need to do more with their minds to be happy, and they stop listening to you if they're not being fulfilled. Smarter dogs also know exactly what they can and cannot get away with - and will run with it. Dimmer dogs take a lot longer to learn a new skill, but its a lot easier to maintain those behaviours, because they don't need to be as fulfilled mentally. They do however have a hard time learning and remembering new behaviours, and are difficult to inspire. All dogs also have a level of "pack drive", or the desire to listen and make you happy. Dogs like German Shepherds have a very high pack drive and are really easy to inspire; however, dogs like poodles or bulldogs could really care less what you want or how to make you happy. These considerations are important in selecting a dog as well. If you don't like to be challenged by a dog, don't select a dimmer breed with low pack drive (like a bulldog). If you don't like a dog deciding a behaviour is boring and not wanting to do it anymore, don't select an intelligent breed (like an Australian shepherd). If you get frustrated with a dog that sees right through you and seems to laugh when you're not invested in a training session, don't select an intelligent dog with a low pack drive (like a poodle). If you can't handle a dog that does clearly know behaviours and does thirty other things instead, don't select a breed with high pack drive but low intelligence (like a rottweiler or pit bull).
Hopefully this has given you some insights on selecting your Ideal Companion!
Friday, June 10, 2016
When To Recognise You're Not The Right Human For Your Pet - Blog Thirty Four
*Ideal Companions does not condone any form of judgment or bias on any
individual based on their living circumstances or choices therein.
How do you recognize when it's time to consider rehoming your pet?
In recent months, a rather large hot button topic around the internet has been the people that give away a dog - usually on usedeverywhere, or craigslist. Sometimes the reasons are a little weak, some times they're valid. The thing there is, many people have unforseen life events, sudden financial problems, or other issues, and no one should have to field judgment because of those problems. Today, we're talking about when it's best to admit you and your dog are not the right pair - and when it's time to send your dog onto another home.
1) You Cannot Fulfill Their Basic Needs
Sometimes, life gets so busy that our duties elsewhere fall by the wayside. Be it medical, or otherwise, sometimes owners become unable to satisfy a dog's walking needs, a dog's play needs, or a dog's training needs. If you're always finding yourself without time or ability to provide your dog with ample exercise and training every day (especially outside your home area), then it's time to rehome your pet. We all love animals, and we all want to believe we can do what's best for your dog - but if you dog needs four to six hours of exercise a day and training on top of that, and you can only provide thirty to fourty minutes of both, you're not being fair for your dog, and you're depriving him of a critical, basic need. It is important to be fair to your pet, and give them the life they need - not the one that holds them back. If you're more often finding your dog becoming bored, frustrated, hyper, or unmanageably crazy and you cannot fit in anything more for whatever reason, it's time to be fair - its time to let your pet go to someone who can.
2) When You're Unable To Properly Manage Dangerous Behaviour
Sometimes, when a dog becomes very aggressive, dominant, or excessively hyper or destructive, and an owner doesn't have the time, energy, or skill to manage these issues, it's time to admit you're not the right human for your dog. There is nothing wrong with passing your pet on to someone with more experience with your dog's issues and selecting a breed that more matches your lifestyle, energy, and skill level. Many people see this as giving up, giving in, or letting go - that's not accurate. You're allowing your dog to flourish where you are currently unable to get them to.
3) Your Family Is Unbalanced
If your household had many different personalities, that can be worked with. However, when people in your family are undermining your rules, or are not doing everything they need to do, or possibly are even intentionally hurting your dog, it's time to rehome. It is never fair to an animal when a home is unbalanced - and it's abusive to allow a dog to remain in a place where someone is intentionally undermining you, or worse, trying to hurt you or your dog.
4) You're In The Wrong Place In Life
It's fine to pursue your own needs - in fact, its important. But, when those things are getting in the way of being a good dog owner, and it's causing change in your dog, sometimes we have to pick - and if life is too important to make those dog-safe changes, we need to rehome our dogs. Sometimes, having a child or an elderly family member move in can cause priorities to change - and that's better than okay, its good! But the dog is often left by the wayside - and your kids have to come first. There is no shame in admitting your kids, or mom, are the priority. We never think things like kids or parents could get in the way or being a great dog owner - until you find yourself overwhelmed. It's best for your dog to go to a home where they can better attend to your pet.
5) Sudden Medical Issues
No one ever wants to stop being able to care for a pet - but it's even more heavy on the heart when it's because of a medical problem in yourself or someone you love. Sometimes we have to focus on ourselves, our physical or mental health - and that's unfortunate. It's best if you have to dedicate that kind of time to yourself or someone else, that you give them your all, and let someone else take time with your pet.
How do you recognize when it's time to consider rehoming your pet?
In recent months, a rather large hot button topic around the internet has been the people that give away a dog - usually on usedeverywhere, or craigslist. Sometimes the reasons are a little weak, some times they're valid. The thing there is, many people have unforseen life events, sudden financial problems, or other issues, and no one should have to field judgment because of those problems. Today, we're talking about when it's best to admit you and your dog are not the right pair - and when it's time to send your dog onto another home.
1) You Cannot Fulfill Their Basic Needs
Sometimes, life gets so busy that our duties elsewhere fall by the wayside. Be it medical, or otherwise, sometimes owners become unable to satisfy a dog's walking needs, a dog's play needs, or a dog's training needs. If you're always finding yourself without time or ability to provide your dog with ample exercise and training every day (especially outside your home area), then it's time to rehome your pet. We all love animals, and we all want to believe we can do what's best for your dog - but if you dog needs four to six hours of exercise a day and training on top of that, and you can only provide thirty to fourty minutes of both, you're not being fair for your dog, and you're depriving him of a critical, basic need. It is important to be fair to your pet, and give them the life they need - not the one that holds them back. If you're more often finding your dog becoming bored, frustrated, hyper, or unmanageably crazy and you cannot fit in anything more for whatever reason, it's time to be fair - its time to let your pet go to someone who can.
2) When You're Unable To Properly Manage Dangerous Behaviour
Sometimes, when a dog becomes very aggressive, dominant, or excessively hyper or destructive, and an owner doesn't have the time, energy, or skill to manage these issues, it's time to admit you're not the right human for your dog. There is nothing wrong with passing your pet on to someone with more experience with your dog's issues and selecting a breed that more matches your lifestyle, energy, and skill level. Many people see this as giving up, giving in, or letting go - that's not accurate. You're allowing your dog to flourish where you are currently unable to get them to.
3) Your Family Is Unbalanced
If your household had many different personalities, that can be worked with. However, when people in your family are undermining your rules, or are not doing everything they need to do, or possibly are even intentionally hurting your dog, it's time to rehome. It is never fair to an animal when a home is unbalanced - and it's abusive to allow a dog to remain in a place where someone is intentionally undermining you, or worse, trying to hurt you or your dog.
4) You're In The Wrong Place In Life
It's fine to pursue your own needs - in fact, its important. But, when those things are getting in the way of being a good dog owner, and it's causing change in your dog, sometimes we have to pick - and if life is too important to make those dog-safe changes, we need to rehome our dogs. Sometimes, having a child or an elderly family member move in can cause priorities to change - and that's better than okay, its good! But the dog is often left by the wayside - and your kids have to come first. There is no shame in admitting your kids, or mom, are the priority. We never think things like kids or parents could get in the way or being a great dog owner - until you find yourself overwhelmed. It's best for your dog to go to a home where they can better attend to your pet.
5) Sudden Medical Issues
No one ever wants to stop being able to care for a pet - but it's even more heavy on the heart when it's because of a medical problem in yourself or someone you love. Sometimes we have to focus on ourselves, our physical or mental health - and that's unfortunate. It's best if you have to dedicate that kind of time to yourself or someone else, that you give them your all, and let someone else take time with your pet.
Monday, April 25, 2016
Seven Training Myths - Blog Thirty-Three
Today we are tackling some of the more common training myths - and why they're not true!
Myth 1
"Feeding a dog at the dinner table causes the dog to be spoiled."
This isn't true, whether you're feeding a dog human food, or their own food beside the table. While it can cause expectations and excitement, if you're using it to your advantage for training purposes, it doesn't matter whatsoever if it's at the family dinner, or outside in the middle of the night. Using human food, provided it's safe for dogs (look up a list of foods to never feed dogs, such as onions, yeast, or sugar), can actually help bond you and your dog and reinforce you as a provider, and thus, the leader. However, you will need to be careful not to encourage excitement and dominance.
Myth 2
"You can correct a puppy or tell it no just fine."
Actually, puppies are too young to be corrected, or to be told no, until they're around 10 months. This is because they can't handle knowing they've done something wrong. Of course, if it's being used to safe a life, then of course, it's better to startle or correct your dog - but keep away from the harsh no until they're bigger!
Myth 3
"Corrections are hurtful to the dog."
Corrections are gentle. Sometimes they can startle a dog, which can cause them to jump or yelp, but the idea is to break their concentration so you can redirect them. This comes in handy when your dog is so focused on something (or willfully dominant) that it ignores you. This perception generally comes from all-positive trainers, and people who cannot master corrections properly and either over correct, or mistime the correction, leading to a strong reaction from the dog in question. The main issue with corrections is they have to be exactly timed, and with a certain amount of pressure, or they do nothing. When a pair of dogs, left to their own devices, correct one another, they pin, use teeth to nip or bite, and can sometimes even grab another dog by the throat and push them down - these are all ways for one dog to communicate to another that the behaviour in question is unacceptable. Most dogs walk away just fine after this kind of altercation, sometimes being a little wary of the dog or behaviour - so how can a leash or contact correction be worse? Its not.
Myth 4
"My dog is too old to learn now, we're stuck with this behaviour."
While some behaviours can be habituated and really difficult to change, that's not really an age-related thing. Excepting of course neurological/brain wiring issues, all behaviours can be repaired, at any age. Senior dogs that may only have a few years left however may not have the time left to relearn, but its not a brain issue. All dogs can learn.
Myth 5
"My dog eliminated inside once; now I will never get them to stop."
While its true that once a dog eliminates inside the home it's pretty hard to correct the behaviour, it's always possible to fix this issue (barring any medical problems). Most dogs eliminate inside for a couple of main reasons: they're desperate and couldn't wait any longer, they're scared/startled/excited, they're generalizing the behaviour (meaning they've gone from associating outside for eliminating to outside my bed/crate), or they don't associate your home as their den yet. All of these behaviours can be retrained.
Myth 6
"My dog is doing this behaviour to get back at me."
Dogs are not capable of spite, or revenge. They live in the moment, and react accordingly. Chances are, there is something important training-wise that you're missing - unless your dog is really a cat!
Myth 7
"My dog is just over protective, he knows I am boss."
If your dog is acting defensively towards you, unless you're pregnant, that's not just being over protective; your dog believes you are his or her property, and that they must defend that item. This is a classic case of role reversal, and you need a trainer.
Myth 1
"Feeding a dog at the dinner table causes the dog to be spoiled."
This isn't true, whether you're feeding a dog human food, or their own food beside the table. While it can cause expectations and excitement, if you're using it to your advantage for training purposes, it doesn't matter whatsoever if it's at the family dinner, or outside in the middle of the night. Using human food, provided it's safe for dogs (look up a list of foods to never feed dogs, such as onions, yeast, or sugar), can actually help bond you and your dog and reinforce you as a provider, and thus, the leader. However, you will need to be careful not to encourage excitement and dominance.
Myth 2
"You can correct a puppy or tell it no just fine."
Actually, puppies are too young to be corrected, or to be told no, until they're around 10 months. This is because they can't handle knowing they've done something wrong. Of course, if it's being used to safe a life, then of course, it's better to startle or correct your dog - but keep away from the harsh no until they're bigger!
Myth 3
"Corrections are hurtful to the dog."
Corrections are gentle. Sometimes they can startle a dog, which can cause them to jump or yelp, but the idea is to break their concentration so you can redirect them. This comes in handy when your dog is so focused on something (or willfully dominant) that it ignores you. This perception generally comes from all-positive trainers, and people who cannot master corrections properly and either over correct, or mistime the correction, leading to a strong reaction from the dog in question. The main issue with corrections is they have to be exactly timed, and with a certain amount of pressure, or they do nothing. When a pair of dogs, left to their own devices, correct one another, they pin, use teeth to nip or bite, and can sometimes even grab another dog by the throat and push them down - these are all ways for one dog to communicate to another that the behaviour in question is unacceptable. Most dogs walk away just fine after this kind of altercation, sometimes being a little wary of the dog or behaviour - so how can a leash or contact correction be worse? Its not.
Myth 4
"My dog is too old to learn now, we're stuck with this behaviour."
While some behaviours can be habituated and really difficult to change, that's not really an age-related thing. Excepting of course neurological/brain wiring issues, all behaviours can be repaired, at any age. Senior dogs that may only have a few years left however may not have the time left to relearn, but its not a brain issue. All dogs can learn.
Myth 5
"My dog eliminated inside once; now I will never get them to stop."
While its true that once a dog eliminates inside the home it's pretty hard to correct the behaviour, it's always possible to fix this issue (barring any medical problems). Most dogs eliminate inside for a couple of main reasons: they're desperate and couldn't wait any longer, they're scared/startled/excited, they're generalizing the behaviour (meaning they've gone from associating outside for eliminating to outside my bed/crate), or they don't associate your home as their den yet. All of these behaviours can be retrained.
Myth 6
"My dog is doing this behaviour to get back at me."
Dogs are not capable of spite, or revenge. They live in the moment, and react accordingly. Chances are, there is something important training-wise that you're missing - unless your dog is really a cat!
Myth 7
"My dog is just over protective, he knows I am boss."
If your dog is acting defensively towards you, unless you're pregnant, that's not just being over protective; your dog believes you are his or her property, and that they must defend that item. This is a classic case of role reversal, and you need a trainer.
Friday, April 1, 2016
Training Pandemics - Blog Thirty-Two
Today, we will be talking about some of the most common dog training misinformation there is out there today. This is the kind of information that is causing thousands of poorly adjusted dogs. While all training is meant in good spirit and intended to help, a lot of advice can end up backfiring, inadvertently cause other issues, or even simply band-aid a training problem. Today, we are addressing what are, in our opinion, the worst types of training mistakes there are.
#1 - Cesar Millan
Don't get us wrong - we're not picking on Cesar's training. While yes, it is old fashioned, for a lot of the dogs he trains are at the last stop - they MUST be trained, or that's the end of it. For these last-chance dogs, they do need rapid, fast, effective changes - and Cesar offers just that, typically at the expense of the happiness or personality of the dog - called "breaking" the dog, much like older horse trainers used to do. This isn't our gripe at all - its not necessarily "bad", just outdated. That being said, this technique is ONLY useful on dogs that have to be adjusted fast or be put down, and that's the place of his style. It works, and it works fast - but for every other dog, there are better ways. Our main gripe with Cesar Millan is his style's prevalence with owners and people who watch the show or even train with him, without truly grasping his style, or what they're actually doing to their dogs. The heavy handed dominance theory, rife with alpha rolls and overstimulating corrections for minor offenses, should be in every trainers LAST LINE of defense - NOT the first, and it should never, ever be used by someone who is not a trained behaviourist. We hear it all the time - "We tried Cesar's stuff but it's not working." or "We tried pinning him, but he bit us and now the behaviour is worse". This is because it is being utilized by people in a manner it was never intended. At the end of the day, your dog has feelings, thoughts, and a brain - doesn't it make sense to use these resources first, instead of breaking your dog's personality, and trust?
#2 - All-positive Training
At the other end of the spectrum, there are people and trainers who believe there should be no "no", no corrections - and definitely no raised voices. This is great for young puppies - science has proven that a dog younger than 10 months cannot handle being told no, corrections, or stern voices. It makes them feel like they can do nothing right. However, once they're a little more mature, these dogs crave to know where the boundaries are, and what is unacceptable. We're not saying to use "no" at every turn, or correct dogs unwarranted - but it is vital to the behaviour of dogs to understand not just what is "good", but what is not so good, a mistake, or what is plain unacceptable. When a dog isn't taught these lines, and only what is good, they actually become far more likely to become unstable at a quick rate, because they have not been taught that certain behaviours are not okay - and so, while they get far better reward from other, positive actions, these unwanted behaviours are actually still filed away in their brain as "usable". When trained properly with the words "uh-uh" and "no" to mark "incorrect, try again" and "do not do that", a dog can learn to refile these behaviours as "mistake" and "unacceptable". Again, we're not saying every little thing needs a verbal correction - doing so can and does make your dog believe they're never getting anything right. We are however saying that teaching these words becomes a tool to communicate to your dog that these words aren't negative at all - they are a way to say "this is not what I want from you". The main drive for all-positive training are usually from people who have seen dogs incorrectly trained with negative feedback - such as those who have seen the aftermath of poorly utilized Cesar techniques - and are led to believe that corrections are bad, when they just have been misused. What's worse, is when a dog that's been raised with all-positive ends up in a home that attempts to utilize the word no - and find the dog shuts down, panics, or reacts aggressively, because they haven't been taught to respond properly to it.
#3 - Using Tools to Cover Training Problems
When owners are unsure how to correct an issue, the most common thing to do is to go out and buy something that solves the problem. Pulling? No-pull harness, or halti. Barking? No-bark scented collars. Snaps at other dogs? Muzzle. Fear? Anxiety shirt. Peeing in the house? Puppy pads. Fast eating? Stick a ball in it. Reactivity around toys? E-collar. Likes to wander but won't recall? Flex-lead! These types of products offer a fast, easy solution to common problems. The main issue here is it simply covers up the root cause, and doesn't address WHY these things are happening, and can end up making the problem worse when they're not being used, or cause the dog to have other, more serious issues. These items are useless. They are not teaching your dog anything new, they're not addressing the real issue, and they're mainly used to make an owner's life easy - instead of actually training a dog's issues away. All of the above issues are fixable, and most of them are pretty easy. If anyone tells you that you need to buy more than a lead or rewards to fix a problem, they are offering you a band aid. Its about as sensible as offering your over-tired child coffee. Sure, you're not going to see the problem for a while, but the real issue is still there. The only exception to this is using a tool properly to help an owner train their dog faster - such as using a vibration collar instead of a leash correction for someone who is not strong enough to offer a proper correction, or a muzzle to ensure someone's safety. This also excludes trained canine or protection dogs that require e or prong collars.
#4 - Using Forceful Means To Control A Dog
We've heard it all. Hydraulic jerks, horse whips, alpha rolls - none of which have any valid or warranted use on dogs for any reason (with exception to specially trained dogs such as schutzhund or canine units as means of desensitization) There is no legitimate and valid reason on planet earth that you'd need something like this to control an animal. Sure, if you're being attacked, by all means use them - do what you have to in order to spare yourself or family injury, but do not use them for standard training. The only real tool any trainer needs is a leash. Doing so is abusive, and destructive - they have no place in training. In fact, we have had more than a third of our cases tell us that they have been taught the hydraulic jerk.
#5 - Using Affection As A Correction
We see this everywhere - owners reassuring their dogs in an aggressive or fearful state with petting. While this logic works on children or cats, it doesn't actually work on dogs. The dog will not see it as a reassurance; they will, in all cases, breeds, and scenarios, see it as "Good; this is how I want you to act". Instead, give affection when they are precisely acting how you DO want. Its also not petting that counts as affection; eye contact, smiling, happy voice, using the name, stroking the fur, massaging, and even sometimes not doing anything at all can mean affection to a dog.
#1 - Cesar Millan
Don't get us wrong - we're not picking on Cesar's training. While yes, it is old fashioned, for a lot of the dogs he trains are at the last stop - they MUST be trained, or that's the end of it. For these last-chance dogs, they do need rapid, fast, effective changes - and Cesar offers just that, typically at the expense of the happiness or personality of the dog - called "breaking" the dog, much like older horse trainers used to do. This isn't our gripe at all - its not necessarily "bad", just outdated. That being said, this technique is ONLY useful on dogs that have to be adjusted fast or be put down, and that's the place of his style. It works, and it works fast - but for every other dog, there are better ways. Our main gripe with Cesar Millan is his style's prevalence with owners and people who watch the show or even train with him, without truly grasping his style, or what they're actually doing to their dogs. The heavy handed dominance theory, rife with alpha rolls and overstimulating corrections for minor offenses, should be in every trainers LAST LINE of defense - NOT the first, and it should never, ever be used by someone who is not a trained behaviourist. We hear it all the time - "We tried Cesar's stuff but it's not working." or "We tried pinning him, but he bit us and now the behaviour is worse". This is because it is being utilized by people in a manner it was never intended. At the end of the day, your dog has feelings, thoughts, and a brain - doesn't it make sense to use these resources first, instead of breaking your dog's personality, and trust?
#2 - All-positive Training
At the other end of the spectrum, there are people and trainers who believe there should be no "no", no corrections - and definitely no raised voices. This is great for young puppies - science has proven that a dog younger than 10 months cannot handle being told no, corrections, or stern voices. It makes them feel like they can do nothing right. However, once they're a little more mature, these dogs crave to know where the boundaries are, and what is unacceptable. We're not saying to use "no" at every turn, or correct dogs unwarranted - but it is vital to the behaviour of dogs to understand not just what is "good", but what is not so good, a mistake, or what is plain unacceptable. When a dog isn't taught these lines, and only what is good, they actually become far more likely to become unstable at a quick rate, because they have not been taught that certain behaviours are not okay - and so, while they get far better reward from other, positive actions, these unwanted behaviours are actually still filed away in their brain as "usable". When trained properly with the words "uh-uh" and "no" to mark "incorrect, try again" and "do not do that", a dog can learn to refile these behaviours as "mistake" and "unacceptable". Again, we're not saying every little thing needs a verbal correction - doing so can and does make your dog believe they're never getting anything right. We are however saying that teaching these words becomes a tool to communicate to your dog that these words aren't negative at all - they are a way to say "this is not what I want from you". The main drive for all-positive training are usually from people who have seen dogs incorrectly trained with negative feedback - such as those who have seen the aftermath of poorly utilized Cesar techniques - and are led to believe that corrections are bad, when they just have been misused. What's worse, is when a dog that's been raised with all-positive ends up in a home that attempts to utilize the word no - and find the dog shuts down, panics, or reacts aggressively, because they haven't been taught to respond properly to it.
#3 - Using Tools to Cover Training Problems
When owners are unsure how to correct an issue, the most common thing to do is to go out and buy something that solves the problem. Pulling? No-pull harness, or halti. Barking? No-bark scented collars. Snaps at other dogs? Muzzle. Fear? Anxiety shirt. Peeing in the house? Puppy pads. Fast eating? Stick a ball in it. Reactivity around toys? E-collar. Likes to wander but won't recall? Flex-lead! These types of products offer a fast, easy solution to common problems. The main issue here is it simply covers up the root cause, and doesn't address WHY these things are happening, and can end up making the problem worse when they're not being used, or cause the dog to have other, more serious issues. These items are useless. They are not teaching your dog anything new, they're not addressing the real issue, and they're mainly used to make an owner's life easy - instead of actually training a dog's issues away. All of the above issues are fixable, and most of them are pretty easy. If anyone tells you that you need to buy more than a lead or rewards to fix a problem, they are offering you a band aid. Its about as sensible as offering your over-tired child coffee. Sure, you're not going to see the problem for a while, but the real issue is still there. The only exception to this is using a tool properly to help an owner train their dog faster - such as using a vibration collar instead of a leash correction for someone who is not strong enough to offer a proper correction, or a muzzle to ensure someone's safety. This also excludes trained canine or protection dogs that require e or prong collars.
#4 - Using Forceful Means To Control A Dog
We've heard it all. Hydraulic jerks, horse whips, alpha rolls - none of which have any valid or warranted use on dogs for any reason (with exception to specially trained dogs such as schutzhund or canine units as means of desensitization) There is no legitimate and valid reason on planet earth that you'd need something like this to control an animal. Sure, if you're being attacked, by all means use them - do what you have to in order to spare yourself or family injury, but do not use them for standard training. The only real tool any trainer needs is a leash. Doing so is abusive, and destructive - they have no place in training. In fact, we have had more than a third of our cases tell us that they have been taught the hydraulic jerk.
#5 - Using Affection As A Correction
We see this everywhere - owners reassuring their dogs in an aggressive or fearful state with petting. While this logic works on children or cats, it doesn't actually work on dogs. The dog will not see it as a reassurance; they will, in all cases, breeds, and scenarios, see it as "Good; this is how I want you to act". Instead, give affection when they are precisely acting how you DO want. Its also not petting that counts as affection; eye contact, smiling, happy voice, using the name, stroking the fur, massaging, and even sometimes not doing anything at all can mean affection to a dog.
Tuesday, February 16, 2016
Why Almost Isn't Good Enough - Blog Thirty
Wow, its the thirtieth blog today, and it's been a while since the last blog!
Today's topic is something I've noticed in almost every dog-human relationship - rewarding for an "almost". When teaching a dog something new, its is indeed valuable to mark that they're going in the right direction, and communicate that yes, that's what you're trying to get them to do. We're not talking about this. You do need to mark and support your dog in new behaviours, but they don't and shouldn't need a treat or the "this is perfect" marking word. This leads to confusion. If you're using "Yes-treat" as your marker for a job well done, you shouldn't be using this to mark a correct direction. That note being aside, this isn't the instance we're talking about. A new behaviour is complicated and difficult for your dog to learn. There absolutely needs to be great communication, but no reward until they get it exactly right. Most people who do treat for almosts typically have a longer time training a behaviour, and it's often sloppy. While I totally understand the need to communicate that your dog is going the right direction, I personally disagree with this practice. The reason being, unless you're not doing a good job communicating to your dog, or teaching an incredibly complex behaviour, there is no need to reward the "almosts".
When a dog already knows a good sit, and can do it just fine, when you reward an almost, your dog learns that they don't have to do it exactly every time - and while that might not seem like a bad thing, dogs learn that they're allowed to be sloppy. This causes loads of behavioural issues, because if they can be sloppy on the little things and not take them seriously, this expands into other areas and causes a lot of handler frustration - especially when they're distracted, and go "oh yeah whatever, you don't mean come/sit/stay/stop. You didn't mean it before, so you don't mean it now." And because of that, many humans get mad at their dogs, when it's caused by their own lack of attention to detail. It might seem like a silly nit pick to have to ensure a sit is a flawless sit every time, but it really is necessary. When a dog is first learning a sit behaviour, and he is rewarded for an "I almost bummed the floor", they believe that first instance is a sit, and that's what it is - its harder to undo that behaviour than to reward a perfect sit.
When dogs learn that they can skimp on certain behaviours, such as waiting by a certain point when there is someone at the door and they're permitted to "break" that line without permission, they often believe they can do so with -all- behaviours, and consequently become the target of frustration. While this is caused by the handler, its ends up being perceived as defiance, or dominance, when it's something a simple as rewarding an "almost".
Most owners fall in to the "almost is fine" when they mistakenly believe that it's the same behaviour. For example, lets say its a rule that a dog is not allowed into a bedroom, and must wait at the door. You've trained your dog to sit at the door frame, and over time, your dog has started letting a paw just past the door, and of course since the dog is still behind the door, you ignore it and carry on. Except, you've just rewarded an almost. Remember, by ignoring a behaviour, you're communicating to your dog that what they're doing is acceptable, and that communicates just as much as a "yes" or a treat in a learned behaviour. So, your dog has learned "almost" is good enough at the door, and is likely to try "almost" with other things, such as sit for a treat, wait for the door, or even leash manners. With some canine personalities, this is a dangerous thing to teach, especially if your dog is a naturally assertive, intelligent type. Because most dogs learn fast, this is as much a good thing as it is a bad, but it means we must be careful what we let slide - and what else is going to slide.
Keep on training, everyone!
Today's topic is something I've noticed in almost every dog-human relationship - rewarding for an "almost". When teaching a dog something new, its is indeed valuable to mark that they're going in the right direction, and communicate that yes, that's what you're trying to get them to do. We're not talking about this. You do need to mark and support your dog in new behaviours, but they don't and shouldn't need a treat or the "this is perfect" marking word. This leads to confusion. If you're using "Yes-treat" as your marker for a job well done, you shouldn't be using this to mark a correct direction. That note being aside, this isn't the instance we're talking about. A new behaviour is complicated and difficult for your dog to learn. There absolutely needs to be great communication, but no reward until they get it exactly right. Most people who do treat for almosts typically have a longer time training a behaviour, and it's often sloppy. While I totally understand the need to communicate that your dog is going the right direction, I personally disagree with this practice. The reason being, unless you're not doing a good job communicating to your dog, or teaching an incredibly complex behaviour, there is no need to reward the "almosts".
When a dog already knows a good sit, and can do it just fine, when you reward an almost, your dog learns that they don't have to do it exactly every time - and while that might not seem like a bad thing, dogs learn that they're allowed to be sloppy. This causes loads of behavioural issues, because if they can be sloppy on the little things and not take them seriously, this expands into other areas and causes a lot of handler frustration - especially when they're distracted, and go "oh yeah whatever, you don't mean come/sit/stay/stop. You didn't mean it before, so you don't mean it now." And because of that, many humans get mad at their dogs, when it's caused by their own lack of attention to detail. It might seem like a silly nit pick to have to ensure a sit is a flawless sit every time, but it really is necessary. When a dog is first learning a sit behaviour, and he is rewarded for an "I almost bummed the floor", they believe that first instance is a sit, and that's what it is - its harder to undo that behaviour than to reward a perfect sit.
When dogs learn that they can skimp on certain behaviours, such as waiting by a certain point when there is someone at the door and they're permitted to "break" that line without permission, they often believe they can do so with -all- behaviours, and consequently become the target of frustration. While this is caused by the handler, its ends up being perceived as defiance, or dominance, when it's something a simple as rewarding an "almost".
Most owners fall in to the "almost is fine" when they mistakenly believe that it's the same behaviour. For example, lets say its a rule that a dog is not allowed into a bedroom, and must wait at the door. You've trained your dog to sit at the door frame, and over time, your dog has started letting a paw just past the door, and of course since the dog is still behind the door, you ignore it and carry on. Except, you've just rewarded an almost. Remember, by ignoring a behaviour, you're communicating to your dog that what they're doing is acceptable, and that communicates just as much as a "yes" or a treat in a learned behaviour. So, your dog has learned "almost" is good enough at the door, and is likely to try "almost" with other things, such as sit for a treat, wait for the door, or even leash manners. With some canine personalities, this is a dangerous thing to teach, especially if your dog is a naturally assertive, intelligent type. Because most dogs learn fast, this is as much a good thing as it is a bad, but it means we must be careful what we let slide - and what else is going to slide.
Keep on training, everyone!
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